Restoration of old IHC locomotive

[Irbricksceo]

Okay, so i have a question. I am in the process of restoring my grandfathers old IHC USRA Light Pacific. Cosmetically, it is missing a lot of parts but that can be fixed relatively simply with all the customizing parts out there. The harder thing is what I need help with, The Locomotive is obviously very old and the contacts that rub against the wheels are destroyed. What is the best way to replace them? The locomotive runs, roughly but runs none the less, if power goes to the motor. I dont intend to make it DCC or anything, it wont be a main locomotive for me but i wish to restore it. The damage was caused by a 6 year old me after all!

[Doneldon]

Ir-

Restoring an old IHC locomotive is best done as a labor of love and nostalgia rather than to produce a quality piece of model railroad equipment. The IHC brand was just about a toy level one with poor details and worse running characteristics. You can invest a fortune of time and money in such a product and wind up with a loco which is a disappointment because of its appearance and running characteristics. However, that's not to say it can't or shouldn't be done. But do it for the memories only.

I seriously doubt that you can find any wheel wipers for your loco. I'm certain there are some out in the vast word of old train stuff but any individual's chances of finding just what s/he needs are pretty slim. That means you'll have to start from scratch. The traditional material for electrical wipes is very thin phosphor bronze sheet. A good hobby shop will have some or you can find it on line. Nichrome can also be used but you're much more likely to encounter the phosphor bronze.

Good luck with your project, and keep us up to date on your progress.
                                                                                                                       -- D

[richg]

Without seeing what the loco old wiper arraignment looked like, I cannot give a replacement idea.
I have used Kadee #5 coupler springs for wipers on locos and tenders.

I just looked at a IHC 4-4-0 diagram at HO Seeker and it looks like the locos had a spring loaded pin that presses against the inside flange on the drivers.
Looks like the tender has pickups also.

Rich

[Irbricksceo]

On this particular locomotive, it was a thin piece of metal, i think it may be copper, that pressed on the wheels. The thing does not mount well in the frame nor does it push well against the wheels. Yes, the tender does indeed have pickups for the rear headlight and i actually have considered using those as the power source but want to see if i can fashion something for the drivers as well. On reason is that one rear truck is not held in well and may not be the most reliable.

I do know that this wont be a star locomotive so it is more for nostalgia. I am sourcing the parts I need (pilot, Smokebox front/headlight , rear headlamp, and smokestack are the main ones) and intend to just make it so it looks alright and can run.

I appreciate all the input and, once I get it running and looking alright, i will definitely post some pictures. The biggest challenge cosmetically will be that a lot of the parts cracked. I know it won't look perfect and will be tough but who knows, maybe with some TLC it can be a half-decent locomotive. I intend to look at pictures of the real life locomotives when finding the parts i will add.

[richg]

I have used a thin piece of copper clad PC board secured to the bottom of the loco. Soldered three half sections of Kadee #5 coupler springs to the PC board. Pressed the contacts up against the driver flanges. I think the copper clad PC board was 1/16 inch thick. I did a lot of other electronic projects and had the PC board in my electronic junk box.

Check the below site. Harold always has good ideas.

http://www.pacificcoastairlinerr.com/1879/bachmann_4-4-0/sound/

Rich

[Irbricksceo]

Thanks, for those interested, I have two pictured, one shows the whole disassembled Locomotive (you can see I did a number on it) and the second is of the chassis itself. The original Contacts are spread off to the side. They are to bent to properly push on the wheels and the piece that held them bent but I may try the idea you had, seems straightforward enough.

[Doneldon]

Irb-

Phosphor bronze is pretty springy which is why they used It in the first place. It's also a
pretty hard metal so it holds up well to the constant friction.
                                                                                               -- D

[richg]

I have a large supply of 0.002 inch thick Phosphor Bronze if anyone needs some. I can send it in a first class envelope. No problem. Snail mail, cannot email. lol
PM me if you need any.

Rich

[BillD53A]

Contrary to popular belief, IHC still exists.  According to their web site they still sell the pacific for around $150.  It might be better to replace the old one than fix it.  I am not vouching for the quality of IHC locos and am not connected with the company.

[Irbricksceo]

Yes, that they do but since i am repairing this for sentimental reasons rather than to have a star runner, I do not intend to get one. Thanks anyway though.

[jonathan]

IR Bricks,

I know a few advanced modelers who prefer the IHC mechanism when it comes to steam loco projects.  You might notice the motor and gear tower arrangement is very similar to the way brass locomotives are configured.  Another manufacturer produces a very similar mechanical set up.

I have a feeling, once you have solved the wheel pick up issue, you may find a diamond in the rough.  This could be a good running loco in the end.

IHC was not known for their detailing, or even being prototypically accurate.  However, they were regarded as being advanced in the mechanical engineering portion of their models.

Would love to see how this turns out.

Regards,

Jonathan

[Irbricksceo]

When I hooked the motor to a 9V Battery to test it, I was surprised it ran as well as it did, noisy but smooth. Considering it has been over a decade since it was last run for longer than a minute.

I am still trying to find appropriate parts (it is harder than I thought as many places do not have pictures on their site for some reason) but I will keep looking. The hardest to find seems to be a pilot that looks right on this locomotive. None the less, I shall continue the search. Thank you all for your support and help.

Incidentally, I did notice when it ran a faint metallic smell, I figure this is because the thing hasn't been run or cleaned in so long but on the off chance that this is bad, I figured i would mention it.

[richg]

When I hooked the motor to a 9V Battery to test it, I was surprised it ran as well as it did, noisy but smooth. Considering it has been over a decade since it was last run for longer than a minute.

I am still trying to find appropriate parts (it is harder than I thought as many places do not have pictures on their site for some reason) but I will keep looking. The hardest to find seems to be a pilot that looks right on this locomotive. None the less, I shall continue the search. Thank you all for your support and help.

Incidentally, I did notice when it ran a faint metallic smell, I figure this is because the thing hasn't been run or cleaned in so long but on the off chance that this is bad, I figured i would mention it.

Good chance what you smell is the arcing between the brushes and the commutator segments.
Check Walther's catalog for possibility of parts.
Bowser use to stock steamer parts at one time.
Precision Scale Company. has steamer parts.
I have bought from both in the past.

Walther's is similar to using Google.
Take some time using Google for loco decorating ideas. Might take some time but I usually find what I want in a search.

Rich

[richg]

Forgot to mention. The 0.002 inch thick Phosphor Bronze I have is five inches wide by about six feet long so I have plenty for the taking. I will never use it. Eye sight no longer works very well for small detail work.

Rich

[Catt]

IHC's steam was mostly made by Mehano.Their diesels might have sucked but the steam was top notch.I bought a new Mikado because a friend bought a used one that ran so well it was a no brainer to buy the new one.

The only reason I no longer own it is that it kept falling off my N scale track after I switched scales.