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cutting flex track

Started by SteamGene, September 05, 2007, 06:43:22 PM

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SteamGene

Track on the VT&P approaches the high bridge over Mickie's Run and Virginia Route 254.  If I use a full length of flex track, I'll need to cobble in a small piece - something like 2 inches or less to connect to the bridge.  I'm thinking that it would be much better to take two sectons of flex track and cut one at, say, 20" and the other at 18" than to mess with one very short piece of track.
Opinions?
Gene
Chief Brass Hat
Virginia Tidewater and Piedmont Railroad
"Only coal fired steam locomotives"

Atlantic Central

Gene,

Yes, two shorter ones in a good option, OR, make a longer one by soldering the rails a head of time.

How are you cuting your rail? I use rail nippers then touch them up lightly with a file. I also solder almost all my rail joints.

Sheldon

robman

Gene.
  I had a similar situation on a previous layout and I agree with Sheldon in making it two longer pieces where you can join it at a more suitable place. I messed around trying to put in a 2" or so piece and it drove me mad so I went with the aforementioned option. Best of luck.  KiwiRob.
Modeling over there over here

SteamGene

Sheldon,
I've used both rail nippers and a Dremel.  Most need some file work afterwards.  I solder the joints on curves and leave the straights unsoldered for expansion/contraction.   I'm not sure what will happen later, but I've put DC power on at the end of track on a penninsula and run a DC train all the way to the staging yard and back. 
Chief Brass Hat
Virginia Tidewater and Piedmont Railroad
"Only coal fired steam locomotives"

Len

If you do much work with flex-track a pair of Xuron rail nippers saves a lot of time, and mess, compared to a Dremel tool.

Len
If at first you don't succeed, throw it in the spare parts box.

SteamGene

Len,
That's why I said I use both.  There are some instances where a Dremel does a faster, better job, I think.
Gene
Chief Brass Hat
Virginia Tidewater and Piedmont Railroad
"Only coal fired steam locomotives"

r.cprmier

Word to the wise:
IF......You are splicing into a curve, do make your connections, whether any size rail-while they are both straight and non-stressed-and solder that joint!!!  Then form it to your radius, and then secure the track to your roadbed.
This will ensure a really smoooooth transition-and that after all, is what you do want; especially if said joint happens to fall in a tunnel, or other very hard to reach area; because it is really hard on your nerves if you have major type derailments in said area all the time-plus you are going to look like a real DOOF if it happens (and it invariably will) when you have company; especially if it happens to be the church pastor, your wife's bridge club, or the local cub scout troop, and you can't swear... (BP:  190 over 98..)

Rich
Rich

NEW YORK NEW HAVEN & HARTFORD RR. CO.
-GONE, BUT NOT FORGOTTEN!

SteamGene

Yep.  This, fortunately is straight. 
Gene
Chief Brass Hat
Virginia Tidewater and Piedmont Railroad
"Only coal fired steam locomotives"

brad

Gene,

If you need 39" or less consider picking up a piece of Shinohara track, it's 39" long and may save you a splice.

brad
I drempt, I planned, I'm building

SteamGene

Cutting is done and loco has gone to the end of the bridge.  The second time, track and joiners straightened out, it did a lot better.
Next week we will go past the Michael family farm, I'm sure! 
Gene
Chief Brass Hat
Virginia Tidewater and Piedmont Railroad
"Only coal fired steam locomotives"