Track length.......

[pdlethbridge]

You could put plastic rail joiners at the switches where they go to the siding. T5 could be then connected to a double pole on/off switch, then to the bus wire. The bus system is sort of like the telephone poles and wires set upside down. The telephone wires would be you bus wires, a + and -. The poles would be like the feeder wires going to the track. The bus should be a heavy gauge like 18 or even 16, while the feeders could be 20 or 22 gauge.
If you go to this location, you'll find free software for track planning from Atlas
http://www.atlasrr.com/righttrack.htm

[Joe Satnik]

Dear EM,

You are asking for a "power routing" turnout.  The 283-284's are not. 

You would need to isolate one rail on both ends of your siding with insulative rail joiners (Atlas #55), and turn the power on and off with a Single Pole-Single Throw (SPST) electrical switch between that insulated rail and the power source for that rail. 

An Atlas #205 selector switch has three SPST electrical switches, (you would use one, the other two would be spares) or you could just buy a single SPST switch from Radio Shack or other source of electrical parts.  (Auto parts stores have them, too.)

I hate to push Atlas products too much on the Bachmann board, but a great book to have is their #12 "The Complete Atlas Wiring Book" available at most hobby shops.

|
|
|\
l  \x Insulative rail joiner here - right rail
l   \
l    \
l     l
l     l<--connection to right rail --<-----SPST----<--power source for right rail
l     l
l     l
l    /
l   /
l  /x  I.R.J. here- right rail
|/
|
|

A frog is the spot on the turnout where the rails cross.  Most are insulative, some are metal, as in the case of your 283-284 turnouts. 

Some hobbyists will power the frog if they have short wheelbase locos, which can lose power over a long frog, or lose power if they have faulty electrical pickup on the rest of the wheels on that side of the loco. 

If you power the metal frog, (not recommended for beginners), you would need a SPDT (Single Pole - Double Throw) switch connected with your throwout mechanism.  Whenever the turnout moves its point rails, the SPDT switch MUST be thrown along with it (and in the proper direction) or electrical shorts will occur at the frog.  Tortoise turnout motors have those switches built in. 

Again, I recommend the "ladder" configuration from my above post.  This avoids "S" curves that raise havoc. 

If you must run the parallel siding with the built in "S" curves, lengthen the straight (between the turnout and the curve that takes you back to parallel with the main) to at least as long as your longest car or loco.  This may require a wider shelf on that side of the room. 

Math: Assume 12" longest car or loco.  #6 turnout moves 6 down the track and 1 sideways.  (6:1)  12" / 6 = 2".   So, you would add 2" width between the main and the siding to get 12 more inches of straight between the turnout and the curve back to parallel.  Assuming 2" previous spacing, +2" = 4" centerline to centerline spacing between main and siding. 

Hope this helps.

Sincerely,

Joe Satnik     

[Joe Satnik]

Dear EM,

Another disadvantage to powering a frog: Operator Error.

If you approach from the 2 track end and the turnout is in the wrong position (bashing? or slamming? through), you will cause and electrical short to the powered frog.

Hope this helps.

Sincerely,

Joe Satnik