code size and flex track

[Martha]

I have the older Bachmann ho scale track and train set and don't know if it is code 100 or 83. I don't have a micrometer to measure the height of the track (I read some place that is how you tell the code).  The curved tracks are gold with black rails, the straight are silver with black rails. I am a novice and ONLY setting this up for my Christmas village that I put out for a few months of the year. I can't afford to upgrade all the tracks or equipment. I do hope to find a few sections of flexible track to use with what I have. I am needing to make a few curves that I think the flex track should do. space is limited to what I am doing and from tutorials seems flex track may be what I need. does anyone have any suggestions and what track is the best for the price? I read Atlas is good but I would think I should stick to Bachmann since everything I have is Bachmann? Thanks for any suggestions or help.

[Catt]

As far as I know Bachmann tracjk is code 100.They do not have flex track so your best bet would be ATLAS or Model Power.The Model Power track is stiffer than the ATLAS and will hold a curve radius better,but qual;ity wise they are equal.

[Martha]

thanks, that helps alot.

[Doneldon]

Martha-

I'm not sure what you have. Perhaps there's a terminology problem. The rails are the long, skinny metal pieces on which the trains run. The ties are the cross pieces which hold the rails the correct distance apart. If I may be so bold as to presume that you had your descriptions reversed, your track with gold rails is brass. Brass is an excellent conductor but its oxidation is an insulator which leads to operational problems. The silver rails are either steel alloy or nickel-silver. The steel tracks aren't very good conductors but, more important, they rust which causes both appearance and operational difficulties. Nickel-silver rails are probably the best material used for rails though it too needs occasional cleaning for best reliability. You can discriminate whether you have steel alloy or nickel-silver by testing with a magnet. There is no problem mixing rail materials but use the same height rails to simplify construction.

Flex track is often an excellent choice; it's what I mostly use. It comes in three-foot sections. Get nickel-silver flex track. If your existing track is pre-mounted to plastic roadbed you'll need to mount the flex track on roadbed, too. Your best bet is cork which is also sold in three-foot lengths. You should buy rail the same size as what you have, which sounds like Code 100. If you aren't sure, take a section with you when you pick up the flex track. Be sure to buy a package of rail joiners, too. They are important for holding your rails together and in a smooth line through the joint.

Be aware that HO tracks which aren't permanently mounted tend to become disconnected, kinky and non-functional. The track with roadbed attached generally holds together pretty well but sectional or flex track on its own is problematic unless permanently mounted. You can glue or nail it to a piece of plywood or extruded foam insulation (blue or pink, not white). You can paint the ply or insulation and put your whole village on it. Don't try to permanently mount your buildings if they are breakable. They will surely get knocked off and broken, as well as being a storage problem.

You'll notice that your inside rail gets longer as you bend the flex track. It can be cut with a fine-toothed hack saw (or just use a blade with tape wrapped around one end so you can hold it safely) and cleaned up with a file. Most folks stagger the rail joints when they connect two curved pieces of flex track. That generally results in smoother curves. The best curves are smooth ones with the widest possible radius. I wouldn't suggest anything smaller than 18" radius (36" diameter).

Good luck with your project.
                                                 -- D

[Martha]

Yes I did describe the tracks incorrectly, I meant to say ties not rails. I was hoping to buy the flex track online as I doubt anyone in a 50 mile radius has flex track or I could afford it if they had it. Seems model railroading is expensive. You did answer a question I forgot to ask, rail joiners, they are important right? I have used small Philip head screws in the past but didn't think that was the best idea. I am revamping my old platform from plywood to the extruded foam (pink) and already happy with the results. I am also creating tunnels and mountains using plaster cloth instead of plywood as I had last year. The weight difference was the reasoning for the revamping. I have done some of my homework by searching out model railroading and the tips and hints available. As a novice the info I receive from people like you is invaluable. Your response on the conductivity of the brass vs steel alloy vs nickel silver got me to wondering if.... would it hurt if I was to duck tape all the rails when I am going to store this platform? Would that help reduce any rusting or oxidation? or would it be a waste of time? I generally store this uncovered in a dry location. I checked the steel track with a magnet, magnet doesn't stick. the track is not on a road bed, and not sure if I will put it on a road bed. I will get matching flex track (meaning no road bed attached to it) so I can either add road bed later or not. Its good to know I can cut the flex track if needed and have the appropriate tools to do that. I have to laugh a bit as these projects do tend to leave some bleeding, burns and slivers all three of which I experienced last week while working on the platform. A saw blade hopping off the wood ouch, hot glue holy crap and where there is wood there are splinters just waiting to slip under that fingernail! But heck it's all worth it. My Christmas village started out on my coffee table with a few ceramic houses, a couple of people and a few trees. It is now being revamped and increased to 4' x 6'. At the rate I am going this "village" will be a large metropolis and who knows modern ddc trains or whatever the new things are called running around my entire home! Oh one more question, I have lights, lots of lights once this is all set up. I have adapters spliced together and splices here and there and one thing I hate is visible wires and second crappy connections. All of these lights are mini with very small strand wire, I am going to say around 20 gauge. do you know of a supplier that sells quick disconnect or small splicers?  I want to be able to easily disconnect the lighting for storage purposes. I've tried to find suppliers on line without much luck. Once again thank you for your help!

[jbrock27]

Yes, model railroading can get to be an expensive proposition both in time and money.

I would not put duct tape on the rails as I suspect this will leave the sticky stuff from the duct tape on there for you to have to clean off at a later date and could make the job tougher for you.  It could also stick to the "ties" making it a hard task to take the tape off when you need to and may take some of the outside ties off with the tape.  If you have a concern over oxidation in storage, maybe store the track in the zip lock airtight bag or something similar?  After track comes out of being stored for a time, it is likely it will need cleaned anyway, so my suggestion is not make that harder by having to clean sticky gunk off-it's is easier with all the methods out there, to clean off oxidation alone.

Sounds like you are having a blast , as it should be.

Track of the same code (that is not on colored plastic grey or black roadbed) can be mixed together from different makes, no need to use all one brand.  You can even mix types of metals if need requires.  The brass and steel will need more frequent cleaning than n/s.

[Doneldon]

Martha-

It sounds like you have excellent and achievable plans. Going to foam and plaster cloth is an excellent idea.

There are a variety of ways to build up your "terrain" from underneath. The easiest is to use wadded up newspaper. You can just pile it up, gluing only when it's necessary to hold the paper clumps together. Be sure to remove all of the paper after the plaster cloth sets because there is a potential for the paper to get musty over time. Even though the mildew probably wouldn't show, you'll still end up with the odor. You can cover the newspaper hills with food wrap, wax paper or bags from the cleaners to make it easy to remove the papers. You can also build up hills with strips of cardboard cut from boxes. Weave the cardboard together, holding the crossing places with a staple or some hot glue. You can also build up gross levels with scraps of foam, including white Styrofoam, and smooth out the contours with plaster cloth. Unlike newspaper, the cardboard strips and foam can remain in place. Be sure to fold your plaster cloth into the tunnel entrances a few inches so they don't look like what they are, holes in a thin shell. Paint the inside of the tunnel entrances black. (You can use cheap acrylics from a crafts store.

I think you'll like your contours and tunnels best if you have some places for buildings above the base foam level, and if the tunnels conceal at least some of the curves on the ends of your railroad. You'd be surprised how much not seeing the trains turning back on themselves makes it seem like they are actually going to and coming from someplace. Also, the effects of your trains will be better if they don't run parallel to the edges of the foam base but are at a bit of an angle instead.

Lights. This can be easy or tricky. A big part of that is the voltage of the lights you will use. If they are 110 volt lights from a Christmas tree string you'll have to be careful because you'll have wall power and heat issues. Safety must be your first concern, especially so with full house power. It's much, much safer to use low-voltage power on the order of 12-16 volts. Not only is this much safer, it's also easier and cheaper to work with. Best of all are LEDs. They use very little current, produce almost no heat and last forever. In any case, make sure that your power supplies don't exceed the rated voltage of your bulbs. It's even better if the power is a bit less than the ratings for your bulbs because that will help them to last much longer.

You can use an old train power pack or wall warts from old electronics like cell phones, laptops or cameras. Just make sure that the voltage output is no higher than your bulbs' capacities and that they have enough ampacity to cover the needs of your lights. This another way in which LEDs shine. (Pun shamelessly intended.) LEDs draw so little current that you may be able to run all of them from a single power supply. Remember that LEDs are diodes which means that they are polarity sensitive and will only light when the electricity flows through them in the "right direction."

You can get all kinds of connectors at Radio Shack. They have connectors for various voltages and with just about any number of conductors. The time to buy them is after your lighting system is designed. Otherwise, you might waste money on expensive components which you don't use. Of course, you can return any surplus equipment as long as you haven't opened or used it.

I and others on this board will be happy to help you plan your lighting scheme if you tell us what equipment you will be using and what you are trying to accomplish.

                                                                                            -- D

[jbrock27]

Sorry Martha, I meant to, but forgot to include this in my above response-yes rail joiners are essential to join the track together, no matter what code or make you are going to be using, they'll be needed.  One on each rail when joining 2 pieces of track together.

[Martha]

Doneldon: I tried to attach a photo of this platform but I got some message folder to large, contact administrator so gave up on it. how does one attach photos? in the meantime.............
The platform I am using: 6' long and widest in center is 4' It is an odd shape, due to limitations to where this is placed between 2 door openings.  I am attempting to attach a photo of the old one that I am revamping. the new one is longer and wider. The frame is 1.5 in by 3/4 in wood lengths giving it about a 1 inch void to run wires, allow some air flow between the top (extruded pink foam board) and the back a large sheet of cardboard. Sandwiching them together so I can move and store the platform separate from all the homes, vehicles, accessories, etc that are placed on the platform. The train track will be attached to the platform and stay on it when stored. Due to its size I will wrap it in either visqueen or bubble wrap to protect it.
My lightening will be well lets just say a lot! I have ac/dc lemax miniature strands of lights, hedges with lights, trees with lights, light post, spot lights and very low voltage soft lights. all are powered with ac/dc adapters from lemax. The problem I had last year was trying to figure out how to make them quick disconnect so when I take this apart to store, the lights can be easily disconnected and stored in the bins I have for all the other stuff. I didn't want to have to undo the back of the platform and pull wires or cut wires. Does that make sense? Just have easy connections on top the platform where I can hide them with trees or other things but easy to get to. The other bigger issue is the houses and lighting them. I have about 20 small ceramic house, buildings, store all of which I light up. The houses when purchase do come with a single 110v night light bulb and socket to stick inside of it, well that would be over kill not to mention probably a good weeny roast as my home burns to the ground from all that current and heat. What I used last year was a string of clear Christmas lights. 100 to be exact. I drilled 2 holes for each house and fed them from underneath the platform and set the house over the two mini lights. (see attached photo) It did the job but... a lot of work. Storing it,  many of the lights broke off an so now I am left with a partially working string of lights that I won't be using. Not all the lights were in the houses due to the space between the strand so some just laid inside on the cardboard. I didn't have the lights on for long period of time but it still probably wasn't the safest way to go. Now this year, LEDs are probably the way to go, as you said they don't create the heat, cheap to use and last a long time. I am not sure how this foam and heat from lights will work out. Will it melt the foam? or ignite it? All the houses will have lighting in them one way or another, I am addicted to Christmas lighting, and quite possible you can see my outside decorations from the space station. I noticed on my power box for the train there is a dc side and ac side and you can connect wires to both. is it possible to use it to run my lighting? I just experimented and the ac side did light up one of my lighted hedges. but is that a safe thing to do? am I over powering these low volted lights?

Forming using foam and plaster cloth. Wish I knew your advice on the newspaper part before I made the stuff. I did use newspaper for the forming and didn't know to remove it. Now the back of both the mountain and the tunnel are open and air can get to the newspaper all the time, think that will help eliminate the mildew smell? Heck if not, I had so much fun making these wouldn't hurt my feelings to redo them again next year. Terrific suggestion on the black inside of tunnel, I did bring the plaster cloth inside, painted stacked rock on the front sides of the tunnel and there will be houses, lights, trees etc on top the tunnel. Actually molded a switch back road up to the top of the tunnel to get to the homes. I am going to build another mountain or some thing on the far end of the platform, removable like the others but need to get that flex track and all the track installed so I know where this will go. Might of found a place locally for the track, sure hope so, its holding everything up right now.

Oh note: I paint the entire platform with popcorn ceiling texture dry mix with water to give it the snow effect. really does a good job, I can build it up for snow drifts. it is easy enough to scrape away to lay the track. I know dust is a bugger, doesn't go well with trains and tracks.

Track and lighting are my two focal points right now, need to have both on hand and devise a plan for both. Radio Shack is three blocks away! So I may be making a few trips back and forth if need be. do you have a specific vendor you buy from? not sure where to get the rail joiners? Your last post confirmed they are an important factor to all of this track laying. Thanks!

[Martha]

jbbrock27 thanks for the info on the rail joiners, learning they are important things. Do you have a specific vendor you buy from? Thanks for the support.

[jbrock27]

I do not have a favorite Martha no sorry.  Many that come to this board swear by THE FAVORITE SPOT, who list thru both EBay and AMAZON.  Sometimes their prices can be good, but sometimes bc of their popularity with people, here for instance, it makes for greater competition when an item on EBay is one that is bid on and ends up driving up the price considerably as opposed to just looking elsewhere.  I have bought from them thru AMAZON.  I have bought railjoiners, brass, from EBay and just searched for a deal on a package of them.   Sadly, the local hobby shop I have, has little in the way of model train items-he's into RC cars, boats and planes.
Bottom line, it pays to shop around and be patient.  That's my advice.

[jbrock27]

PS-I would like to see your pictures.

To partly answer your question about AC/DC (done dirt cheap): yes you can run LEDs off the DC and the X-mas lights off the AC.  What I will defer to have someone else with greater ability explain further is that for LEDs you will likely need a resistor on one leg of the LEDs or somewhere in line from the power connection to one leg of the LED to limit the amount of power to it so it does not burn out.  You will also need beforehand to set the dial on the power pack to be at the amount of power you want running to the LEDs (10 volts, 12 volts or 8 volts for example).  Also, you would have to leave the direction switch in the same position on the power pack; if you changed the direction switch, then the LEDs will turn off.  You will need to know the "specs" on the LED you are using.  If they are different for ones you are using, this might make makes more complicated.  For the X-mas lights you will need to know what the lights are rated to receive for power, but should not need a resistor for them and you would need to know the AC power output of the power pack.  I hope this helps you.

[Martha]

the resistor makes some what sense as I have a real nice set of LED lights that do have a resistor in the line of lights. I failed to mention I actually have two power switches of the same model, so i could use one for just lights and the other for the train operations. I don't know how to attach a photo, I tried a few times and made sure is was less that 128 kb but still said folder to large blah blah blah. so maybe someone can walk me through it. as they say a picture is worth a thousand words. I am trying to attach it to my replies, isn't that where I want to attach it? not in the photo gallery section of this site.

Now i need to find small connectors, some of the wires is probably 22 guage, real thin wire. I might have to study up on soldering them and using the shrink wrap. any views/opinions on that subject? or just crimping them?

[jbrock27]

I have not posted pictures myself Martha but if you do a search on the Forum, you will find people have given instructions on how to use Photo Bucket and then you can post the pics here.
At Radio Shack, they sell small crimp connectors that are used to connect phone line wire, very small gauge, around the size you have.  They may work for you if you do not want to solder wire together and then use shrink wrap.  You could probably crimp and use shrink wrap over the crimp if you were concerned about strengthening the connection to keep it from coming apart.

[rogertra]

Martha.

I only have one eye, thus soldiering is a little challenging as I have no depth perception.

I don't see close up too well out of the other eye either.

So, if I can do it, so can you.  Give it a try.  There's lots of video on line if you Google "soldering".