Thomas1911's Layout

[Thomas1911]

Been awhile since I've updated this.  Made a small addition to the layout, added a bridge route across the "bay".





Also picked up my first brass locomotive a while back.  It is a Gem Baldwin 2-4-4-2.  Cleaned and checked it out thoroughly, added and changed a few details, then painted and applied decals.  Installed a Tsunami decoder and high-bass speaker in the tender.  It's a fair runner, not quite as smooth and quiet as the Bachmann's though.  Acceptable at slow speeds and with the sound on.  Probably one of my favorites to run now.  Would still like to change the pilot to the running board type and add some toolboxes and such.











I really need to stop buying stuff, the project list keeps growing.  New projects include a Rivarossi 3-Truck Heisler that needs decals and a pair of Proto RS-2's that need paint, decals, and decoders.  Also picked up a second Bachmann Shay that I plan to modify extensively, will give details and show it off when I get around to starting on it.  

[Doneldon]

1911-

This all looks very good. Congratulations!

I'm not sure that I've ever seen an artic with a step pilot but I suppose
there must have been one somewhere. There is lots of space for someone
to stand on the huge front porch which most artics are equipped.

                                                                                                       -- D

[Thomas1911]

Thanks Doneldon.

From the research I've done, the Gem model appears to depict the locomotive as it was built by Baldwin.  I've been updating mine to match its later modifications, which included the pilot footboards.

Some good pictures of the prototype on the following site.

http://loggingmallets.railfan.net/list/lr126/littleriver126.htm

[Woody Elmore]

Re: gem engines. Gem engines always ran with a little whine or growl in the gearbox. If you like to tinker there is a solution - order some Jeweller's rouge. You should be able to get it online. Remove all the lube from the gearbox and replace it with the rouge. Turn the gearbox about thirty seconds in both directions then remove the rouge and relube the gearbox. This technique is called "lapping" and was done when watches had to be wound by hand. It works wonders.

[Thomas1911]

Thanks for the tip Woody.  This loco doesn't really have gearboxes, it's all open.  Also, there is no metal to metal gear contact.  The worms and gears on the main shaft are brass, but the worm gears on the drivers and the idler gear between the motor and main shaft are plastic.  Would you still recommend this lapping procedure with the plastic gears?  I could see it being a necessity with all metal gears.

I think most of the noise I experience is from loose tolerances in the main shaft support bushings, and it seems to be isolated to the front set of drivers.  When I reassembled the mechanism, I only put some light oil on the bushings.  I wonder if some thicker oil would do any help or harm?  Or I may possibly need to re-bush the front shaft supports.  Maybe I'll get fancy and make some new supports with ball-bearings.

[Thomas1911]

Was feeling frisky over the weekend and did the pilot modification on my 2-4-4-2.  Added the footboard and also a working front coupler to replace the brass dummy coupler.  Need to add a footboard to the rear of the tender now also.

[Thomas1911]

Been giving more thought to my trackplan, it’s still not working for me, even after the changes made 2 years ago (see page 3).  I’ve decided I don’t like the all the hidden track and the trackwork on the middle two sections is still too busy.  Also, I have been getting more and more frustrated with the Atlas turnouts I used. 

I’m planning to modify my benchwork on the middle two sections to lower it (or raise the other two sections) so that my previously hidden portion of the main line will be at zero elevation instead of -3.5”.  With the reworking of the mainline, I’ve been able to condense the turntable lead tracks to be on two sections instead of three.  Except for the engine service area, I plan to go to open-grid style on the rest of the benchwork.  Probably ought to add a backdrop of some kind while the layout is disassembled.

I’m going to attempt some partially hidden storage/staging tracks (lower right corner), something I’ve been trying to work into the track plan from the beginning.  It's not a lot of storage, but better than nothing.  The tracks will partially be on a drop-leaf to allow clearance to open the closet door.  The ladder turnouts will be hidden, but plan to mount them on a removable base that will drop out for maintenance or adjustments.  Think I may try some of those hump yard switch levers to operate them.

For the turnouts, I’m planning on changing to the Walthers/Shinohara line (comments?) since they offer a pretty wide variety as I need a couple curved turnouts and a 3-way turnout.  Also, changing to #5 turnouts instead of the #6’s in use currently.  Atlas makes a good, inexpensive turnout, but I’m hoping the extra cost of the Walthers turnouts will translate to better quality and reliability. 

Planning to make these changes over the coming winter, got a few projects needing finished first, such as the Shay (haven’t forgot about it, just busy with other things).  Probably be making a tweak or two to the new trackplan as well.  For example, I’d at least like to work in another passing siding on the lower level tracks near the new sawmill location and may reroute the logging camp spur from what is shown.

Comments and critiques are appreciated.

EDIT:
Made changes to the plan as stated previously, added the passing siding and logging camp spur reroute.

Trackplan v3.0