Starting to build 1st RR

[Morgun 30]

Well the wife finally got a section of basement cleaned up and is allowing me to start building my table.  With the space she gave me. I'm leaning toward a L shape that would be against 3 walls. I have what I think could be a problem in one of the corners. That being reaching across the table into the corner. I know that it is better to use 22"R than 18"R  curves. ( I've got on loco that doesn't like 18"R curves) The method of alternating 22"R and 18"R pieces would work in the layout I'm working on. Will that help prevent possible derailments? Thanks, Morgun 30

[Jerrys HO]

Morgan
Not a real problem. In one corner of my layout I have Mountains where I cut a hole under the mountain for access.
If no mountain you can always have a section of your layout that you can lift out for access to scenery or your loco's and track.

Jerry

[Doneldon]

Morg-

Alternating 18" and 22" radius sections does seem to help some locos make it around curves but there is still the problem of an 18" limiting radius for most locos which want broader curves, not to mention how long locos look on tight radii. If possible, use 22" all of the way. That's usually not a great problem in the corner but it will make the blobs on the ends larger.

As far as access goes, you can have a lift out panel built into your mountain or leave the corner open so you can pop up to get at your track or any kind of train malfunction.

                                                                                                                             -- D

[Joe Satnik]

Dear Morgun,

According to the AnyRail.com track CAD program (download is free for first 50 track pieces) , your method will save you 2" in each direction of the corner.   

Instead of alternating radii, try a "pseudo-easement" pattern:

22"R            22.5 deg.
18"R            30    deg.
Half 18"R      15    deg.
22"R            22.5 deg.

Total:           90 deg.

Hope this helps. 

Sincerely,

Joe Satnik 

[Morgun 30]

Thanks to all. I do have and use anyrail. I am going to make that end big enough for 22"R, but I am going to experiment with the 22-18, etc. pattern. Will share info as the build goes along.

[Morgun 30]

Finally have a plan on anyrail. If someone can instruct me how a post, I will. ( may not till later tonight)

[electrical whiz kid]

Doctor Donaldon et al;
I have seen little if anything on these posts about easement curves; and no, it isn't rocket science.  They will work pretty good-not perfect-but good-when dealing with long rigid-frame locomotives  like a Mike or Berkshire negotiating one of these curves.  The prototype uses that approach, as have I, and it is good.  Linn Westcott did a whole write-up (I think it was Linn) in a way past issue of MR.
Rich C.

[jward]

morgun,

you can save your anyrail plans as a bitmap (.bmp) then upload that to photobucket or flikr. photobucket will automatically generate an image code you can copy in your post here. it's a lot easier than it sounds.

[Morgun 30]

morgun,

you can save your anyrail plans as a bitmap (.bmp) then upload that to photobucket or flikr. photobucket will automatically generate an image code you can copy in your post here. it's a lot easier than it sounds.

I'm sure it is, but I don't have an account with either of them at this time.

[Jerrys HO]

Morgun,

Photobucket I know is free to use and in just a few minutes you have an account.

http://photobucket.com/

Here's the link in case you are interested. We would enjoy watching and helping with your the progress to your layout.

Jerry

[Morgun 30]

Thanks, Jerry.

I must be more computer illiterate than I thought. signed up (at least I thought I did) but get user or password incorrect message.

[Jerrys HO]

Morgan,

Go to sign in and click on forgot and they will e-mail you your account log in info.

[Morgun 30]

Will work on it. Start 12 hr. days tomorrow, so might not have free time to work on it

[Doneldon]

I have seen little if anything on these posts about easement curves; and no, it isn't rocket science.  The prototype uses that approach, as have I, and it is good.  Linn Westcott did a whole write-up (I think it was Linn) in a way past issue of MR.
Rich C.

Rich-

The prototype always uses transition curves to reduce wear and tear on wheels, locomotives and track. They don't care what their trains look like going around curves; their concern is the cost of maintaining their moving and fixed assets. And it's not just railroads that use easements. Every road we drive on, whether a narrow county road or an interstate, will have transition curves at the beginning and end of every curve unless physical obstacles a the location prevent them.

I think that easement curves are underutilized in model railroading for two reasons: First, most track plans and track planning programs use sectional track and there is no way to do genuine transition curves with pre-curved track. You must use either hand-laid or flexible track for the real thing. Second, although starting curves with broad radius sections which tighten to the ruling curvature can effectively mimic easements, the resulting irregular curves modify the overall geometry so much that fitting the rest of the tacks together becomes a real challenge. It can even be difficult to reach an exact 90^o or 180^o curve due to the fact that different radius curves have different degrees of rotation. These ersatz transition elements also complicate calculating the actual sizes of curves.
                                                                                                                                                                              -- D

[Joe Satnik]

Dear All,

Some old threads on pseudo-easements:

http://www.bachmanntrains.com/home-usa/board/index.php/topic,8875.0.html

http://www.bachmanntrains.com/home-usa/board/index.php/topic,6564.0.html

Throw the recipes at AnyRail.com track CAD program to see if they fit your table or bench top. 

Easements and pseudo-easements only add a few inches to the length and width. 

You could make a 3/4" frame around your 4'x8' sheet by nailing 1 by 2's flush with the top....

Yes there are complications, but they can usually be ironed out using symmetry, and if necessary, fitter straights.

Again, AnyRail.com to check the fit before buying track.   

Hope this helps.

Sincerely,

Joe Satnik