Loss of consistent power to track

[mherman19]

I have lot consistent power to my layout.  I am thinking that track may have lost consistent power do to the steel track getting tarnished.  What is the best way to clean the track.  I am using the EZ snap steel track.  Thanks.

[jbrock27]

Softer variety track cleaning block (Perfect makes one), Wahl clipper oil, Isorpopal (forgive the spelling) alcohol.  In that order.
Some say acetone (like nail polish remover) others fear it melts or deforms plastic.  I have tried it and nothing melted or blew up.  A little on a cotton rag or Q-tip is plenty and don't slop it around.  This would be the last thing I tried.  The cleaning block would be my #1.   
Don't be surprised to get suggestions of switching to nickel silver track, which is of course a good suggestion.  The question is, would you have the dough for that?
I wish you success in your endeavor.

[Jerrys HO]

MH19

I endorse jb27's technics also but have you added feeders to your layout, how big is your layout. Is your loco's wheels dirty?  They may need to be cleaned also.

Jerry

[Doneldon]

herm-

Steel isn't a great conductor in the first place. Add a little corrosion, dirty wheels (maybe), the possibility of rail joiners which aren't doing their job due to corrosion at rail joints, and (possibly) too few feeders and you have lots of possibilities for poor electrical continuity. This is a bigger issue with DCC than DC, but even DC layouts have a few problems after some time has gone by.

Starting by cleaning your track is a great idea. Previous posters have given you some good ideas about that. A track cleaning block followed by an extremely light coat of Wahl oil should help a lot. I cannot overemphasize the importance of using a scant amount of the oil. More will only collect dirt and make you clean again sooner. You want much less than a drop (total) applied to several places around your layout. Let the trains spread it out.

You can use the track cleaner for your loco's wheels but it's pretty awkward. I suggest a cleaning fluid like the alcohol used with Q-Tips or toothpicks. Your rail joiners will be a difficult fix if they are attached to a surface. If your track is loose, you can just pull it apart and push it back together a few times and then use a dab of conductive grease to "seal" the connection. I don't know an easy way to improve the conductivity through rail joiners on fixed steel track. If you have a longer track than just a simple oval or if you have several turnouts switches) it would be a good idea to add a few more rail joiners. I'd start with feeders to the areas where you are experiencing difficulties.

D

[jbrock27]

Jerry and Doc add some great, valuable suggestions.
I will expound on my suggestion re: the Wahl clipper oil.  I put a drop or 2 on the fat head of a makeup style Q-tip and rub it over the rails until the head is dirty, then flip it over to the other side of the fat head and do the same until it is too dirty.  These are different than the more common Q-tips in that both ends are not the same.  One end has a fat head and the other is pointy.  The pointy end is good for cleaning small openings, the fat head is good for cleaning rails.  The head on this Q-tip holds up much better than the more common ones you see and won't leave fibers on the rails.  You would be amazed how black it gets from cleaning the rails.
That said, I still think the most bang for your buck is going to be a Perfect track cleaner block.  I look at the clipper oil as more of a preventative maintenance product.  I like the Perfect style bc it is softer than the cleaning blocks from my day, which seem petrified and can tend to scratch the surface of the rails.  As Doc would tell you, these scratches may be small to us, but in scale, are like giant ravines and canyons that will serve as spots to collect future dirt and crud, impeding the flow of electricity to your locos.

[Doneldon]

herm-

I forgot to mention one thing: Although steel wool would do a great job of cleaning and polishing your rails, DO NOT use it. The tiny pieces of steel which break off during use will get pulled up by your motors' magnets (especially a problem with open-frame motors) and otherwise work themselves into your bearings and journals. Even if they don't cause a short, which they very well might, they will harm your trains. However, I do have a friend who uses 4-O steel wool on his track, followed by the careful use of a large, powerful, rare-earth magnet. He's never had any steel wool induced gremlins as far as I know, but I still wouldn't do it.

                                                                                -- D

[M1FredQ]

Instead of steel wool use "SCOTCH BRITE" pads they are very effective and leave no pieces behind.

When I am in a hurry to do some basic cleaning, I put a little "GOO-GONE" on the Scotch Pad and follow up with an old rag.

I get a lot of carbon off the rails and the trains run really well!!!!!

[Ken G Price]

Until I read on model train forums about not  using steel wool, it never even crossed my mind.
Why would any one think of steel wool?
Did any one here ever use it?
Did any one think it was a great idea?:

[Doneldon]

Until I read on model train forums about not  using steel wool, it never even crossed my mind.
Why would any one think of steel wool?
Did any one here ever use it?
Did any one think it was a great idea?:

Ken-

I don't know if anyone on this board ever tried steel wool but I can certainly understand why someone might want to try it: Steel wool will clean and polish metal like just about nothing else on the planet. Cleaning track is a nuisance which most MRs I know hate so an apparently quick and efficient way to do the chore would be very appealing. The subsequent problems won't necessarily manifest themselves right away so it would be easy to go on using steel wool without any awareness of what might happen.

                                                                                                                          -- D

[M1FredQ]

When I took out my Dad's trains which had been sitting in storage for years, yes I admit I used steel wool to clean the tubular track, as was mentioned above there is nothing on the planet that will do a better job.

Once I got most of the corrosion and residue off I switched to Scotch Brite pads and Goo-Gone and the track has a nice "Petina" look. The main lines of our layout are Fas-Track but becuz there's is sentimental value in that old track we incorporated it into a small loop in the center of the lay-out and ran a bumper car line through the center of town.

[Joe323]

Steel Wool is banned from commercial kitchens in many juristictions for the same reasons given here it flakes off and makes its way into the food.

[jbrock27]

Now if they could only get rid of the cockroaches...

[Doneldon]

Now if they could only get rid of the cockroaches...

Steel wool is hell on cockroaches!