DC Conversion to DCC

[CB&Q]

Hi all,

Our Fountainville Express group recently discovered someone had donated a Bachmann DC 2-6-0 Budweiser loco with cars, all of which had been in an adjacent locked storage area, probably well before we began our layout three years ago. Is the loco (without tender) worth trying to convert to DCC?

Thanks for comments.

CB&Q

[Doneldon]

Q-

It might be. How's that for a definitive answer?

The absence of the tender is the biggest issue. Converting to DCC isn't a bad idea but also having to obtain a tender could make the deal not so worthwhile. I suggest first making sure that the Mogul works. If the parts you have don't even work there's not much point in going on.

Next, examine the loco's coupler. Is it a real, working one or a plastic one for looks? If it's a non-working (called a "dummy") coupler it will need to be converted to a working one. This isn't especially difficult but it's annoying to have to put a working coupler on a loco which should have had one in the first place. (A 2-6-0, or Mogul, would never have led a mainline, through train, at least not one built as late as the Bachmann sort-of prototype. So it would have been used on a local or peddler freight which would need couplers on both ends to do its job. Of course, the Bmann Mogul is the same basic engine as their 2-6-2 and 0-6-0, but both of those require couplers, too. The same would be true if any of these had been used as a switcher.) Do you have someone with the skill and interest in doing the coupler conversion?

Last, check out the cost of a new coupler, a tender and the decoder, and compare that to the cost of a new Bmann Mogul with DCC and sound on board. There's a good chance that your total expenditures would be quite similar except that buying a new loco would save a lot of effort and give you sound as well. Then sell the 2-6-0 on eBay to make up any difference in your total outlay.

At least that's what I'd do.
                                          -- D

[richg]

Good chance this is the loco that has a tender with no metal wheels or pickups. The older version 2-6-0 had a pancake motor. The newer version 2-6-0 has  can type motor. A N scale decoder might be squeezed into the loco. I have done that with a Plymouth 0-6-0.
To my knowledge, there locos are toy quality.
I had a couple 0-6-0, same basic loco with pancake motor. The motor is white plastic frame and not very good quality, especially the driver pickups. The tenders have no wiring.
The new 2-6-0, sound value are a much better deal and have been available for a little over $100.00 the last I knew.

Rich

[CB&Q]

This loco operates well on DC. The front coupler is a dummy, but the rear, as with all the cars, has a pull-bar type coupling. No problem in changing couplers, as I have done that with the horn and hook type on some of the cars our group has been given over the years. I'll recheck the wheels on the other cars. If they are metal, maybe we could use one, with modifications, as a place for a decoder.

Thanks to D and Rich for their advice.

CB&Q

[richg]

You should be able to convert to metal wheels and use Harold's idea for pickups. I have used his idea. Get some #30 wire.

http://www.55n3.org/cars/tender_wipers/

I do know Bachmann sells the plugs with wire but no idea if they sell the matching half. Check the parts page. Miniatronics and Litchfield Station sell small connector to use between the tender and loco.
You need six ires

Rich

[Doneldon]

The front coupler is a dummy, but the rear, as with all the cars, has a pull-bar type coupling.

Q-

That's why I didn't ask about a coupler on the rear of the loco. Locos with tenders never have rear couplers; those are on the rear of the tender.
                                                          -- D