DCC Wiring Problem

[keystone]

I'm working on a continuous new layout. The Engine will start out on the right of a double track, that continues to a loop (no switch ), returns on left side of starter track to another loop (no switch) that returns engine to starting point. I do not see a reverse loop, but several on this forum did, so I purchased a Auto Reverser circuit.and installed the Insulated joiners. in one loop.
The Engine stalls and stops going from the one side to the other. I can't get continuous running. I've been experimenting with insulated joiners in the other loop with temporary DCC connections. No way can I get the continuous run. Always a Stall and stop. Push passed the insulated joiners,runs fine with correct direction. Before the Auto reverser and insulated joiners I did get shorted out. I think it's a great plan but can't overcome the stop then push.
Any help really appreciated.
Joe

[Ken G Price]

Did you set up auto reversing at each end reverse loop?

[West Bound]

Joe, If I understand your description of your layout, it is shaped like a dogbone,  O==O, There isn't any reverse polarity. Have you tried without any auto reversers. - John

[keystone]

John.  You see what I see. No reverse needed. However, when I first applid DCC power the track shorted out. Coming to this forum, it was suggested to install an Auto reverser. I've done that and Track all has power except at 2 spots where I installed insulated joiners for the reverser. My thought being, if my initial DCC wire shorted the track -now with Insulated joiners it runs that there was no short innitially. A short is a short with regular DC or the DCC. I'm overlooking something . Need you guys to tell me what or how.   It's over my head.   Thanks
Joe

[West Bound]

Do you have more than one set supply feeders to the track? If there is, maybe one set is reversed. - john

[Doneldon]

Joe-

If you have no turnouts it is impossible to have a reverse loop even if you figure out a way for your trains to do barrel rolls, swan dives death spirals or a hop, skip and a jump.

I suggest removing all insulated rail joiners and perhaps adding a couple of feeders in phase with what you have already. Any functioning DC or DCC system should operate your trains just fine. If the trains won't go or won't make it through some part of your layout you either have a defective controller or decoder (if no go at all) or a part of your layout isn't getting good power due to bad rail joint, a defective feeder or too few feeders.

Good luck and let us know what happens after you remove the insulated rail joiners.
                                                                                                                               -- D

[jward]

the fact that you can run the engine at all tells me you don't have a dead short on the line. remove all your feeders except one set, and remove the insulated rail joiners as well. put the track back together and see where it stalls. you most likely have a rail joiner not making contact at that point, or the track is dirty. run the engine back the other way and see where it stops. that is most likely another joiner not making connection. using a set of clip on test leads you can jumper around the affected joints and see which one has failed.

if you add another set of feeders between those two points, in the dead section, it should run.

just be sure you have the feeders wired to the proper rail or you will get a dead short. or as an alternative, you can solder the failed joiners to the rails, assuming you aren't using the steel (black roadbed) track.

[Jerrys HO]

Keystone
Jeff is right on. I have two reverse loops as you are describe and had trouble with one loop. Come to find out I ran my finger along the rails with a little pressure and found my loose joiner. It may also be the connection under the insulated track section may not be secured all the way and when the loco rolls over it it separates the plug from the connector. That happened also.
I also run my multi meter around probing each section of track. although you will not get a true reading it will show (mine did) about 2 to 3 amps on the hot tracks then drop to zero on the dead spot. I also paid attention to the meter showing me negative side or positive side so I could run extra feeders on my longer loop. Doneldon had suggested this before and it works well. Just tap into the out side of the wiring from your reverser and attach feeders there.
Jerry

[Ken G Price]

Joe,
From how you describe your track plan, it is a Dog Bone track plan, with no cross overs or turnouts.
If this is your set up then there is no reversing units or insulated joiners needed. If your plan is different then you need to post a diagram of the plan.

[Jerrys HO]

Ken
Keystone never posted pics but here's his original post which sounds like reversing loops.

http://www.bachmanntrains.com/home-usa/board/index.php/topic,23534.0.html

Jerry

[rogertra]

He needs to post a track plan.  "A picture is worth a thousand words" applies in this case.

[Jerrys HO]

Keystone
Could this be close to your track plan.Let us know.




Jerry

[keystone]

Jerry's latest post of the simple dogbone is it . My track is a series of over and under double track so more complicated but mine streched out is a "Dog Bone". No cross over that I see on his simplified. Now, I have to Thank, West Bound, Jerry,Ken,Jward and Donaldson for the responses.
The problem is solved. At 88 years I'm getting a little dull above the neck area. You guys got me to get my , what's left,  thinking cap on. I removed all the wiring,  and the auto reverse. Then started all over . Immediately, the DCC juice shorted out. I found a razor saw laying across the track, removed it but was still shorting. AH Ha maybe something else jumping the rails. Visual inspection did not find anything. However, I then took a strong magnet and probed it down between rails. I use long thin nails to keep track in place during assembly. Lo and behold, the magnet found the nail partially concealled by a tie. Removed it , plugged DCC in, put engine on track and runs the complete circuit as it should. I guess I have to admit that age has caught up with me. You guys got me thinking - thanks so much. I'm a happy Engineer again. BTW, didn't I see in one of the messages that one of you is from Pittsburgh Pa ? I'm from near Greensburg.

Great Forum , Thanks Again !............Joe

[rogertra]

That track plan has the potential for two reverse loops depending on whether and how you use the two crossovers.

If you do not use the crossovers, you have a dog bone and no reverse loop.

Use either one of the crossovers to go around a loop then you have a reverse loop caused by using the crossover(s).

I'm not up with DCC and reverse loops but will use them when I build by new staging yards as the railway grows.  Right now I use temporary through staging.  I'm sure you will get good advice from others on this group familiar with DCC reverse loop wiring.

The best advice I can give you right now?  Buy a book on how to wire a model railroad for DCC that includes reverse loop wiring, Wye tail track wiring, frog wiring and any other special wiring that comes up when using DCC.  I know I'll buy a book when the time comes and I've been modeling railroading for 50+ years.

[Ken G Price]

Joe, great!
I have done the small piece of metal laying across the rail thing also, as I am sure many others here have done.
Ain't it fun. 
Model trains that is, not the  things.