couplers

[longhaul]

Hi fellas, well I went to the Tampa train show today at the Florida fairgrounds (my first) and was totally blown away. I came home with some nice scenery stuff, a railroad coffee cup, got to have that, several magazines, 4 vehicles for my layout for .25 cents each-I wanted old beat up looking cars and 3 new HO cars for my train.
I picked up a tanker, a refrigeator?? (can'tspell it) box car and a nice iron ore car to load ore in from my silver mine. Problem, I was nieve enough to think the cars would couple togather, surely the manufactuers would standerize such a thing to avoid the confusion. NO THEY DON'T. I have what I think are horn hook on my Bachmann cars and I think it is a knuckle connector on my new cars. They are attached to the trucks differently and I need some suggestions from you guys who have been so helpful in the past.
e-mail if you would prefer  [email protected]

[Bob_B]

Everyone, including manufacturers have their own idea on the best coupler for the job as well as being prototypical.
From what I have read Kadee seem to be the most liked and one reason I chose Bachmann was it's easy to lay track and their rolling stock couplers are Kadee compatible.
To make things worse, having a brand car or loco doesn't necessarily mean it has a standard coupler as these can be changed very easily. They are just fastened by one screw.
What couplers you decide on is up to you, just make them all the same.
One other thing. I've been told even the height of couplers can vary, not just the coupling method.

[Doneldon]

long-

Bob's advice is solid. Set yourself a standard coupler to use on everything that couples and make sure that all couplers are installed correctly. For most people, that means Kadee couplers. There are many reasons for that:

     Appearance. Kadees look very much like real couplers even though some are oversized. However, that isn't a critical problem and there are somewhat more prototyped "scale" Kadees.
     Operation. Kadees operate well and reliably, more so, in my experience, than any other.
     Adaptability. Kadee makes a couple of dozen couplers for difficult motive power and rolling stock. At the same time, there are a few Kadee couplers which will work on the large majority of cars and locos.
     Compatibility. Kadees, like most knuckle couplers, will work quite well with any brand. However, it's good to remember an MR article from a few years ago which said that all couplers work best with others of the same brand. Also, attempting to couple on curves is the operation most likely to fail with different brands of couplers.
     Durability. Metal lasts longer than plastic.
     Versatility. Kadees allow delayed uncoupling which makes for easier and more prototypical switching.

It's important to remember that even Kadees need proper installation. That means that couplers swing and center, do not sag, are installed at the correct height, have smoothly functioning knuckles and are electrically isolated if necessary. The best way to make sure that all of those are correct is to use a coupler gauge. The NMRA clearance gauge will work but Kadee's own coupler gauge is the best way to ensure a good installation and reliable function. Fortunately, the gauge is the only specialty tool you need. There are pliers for bending the operating wires which hang below the couplers, but you can use a regular pliers almost as easily.

Mismatched coupler height is one of the major reasons for coupler problems, and even derailments, so you need to make sure that all of your couplers are at the exact same and correct height. An existing car which you know is right on target for height is a short-term substitute for a gauge but you risk errors if you go this route on an ongoing basis. For example, you may have all of your couplers at the exact same height, but you won't be able to use your rolling stock or locomotives on other people's layouts if your standards car doesn't have its couplers at the correct height.

Once you have the gauge you are prepared to go to the next step. Very minor height problems are resolved using shims. When couplers are too low, you add washers (functioning as shims) between the car bottom and the top of your trucks. When they are too low you add shims between the car bottom and the top of the draft gear (the box into which you install your couplers). Corrections of more than a few hundredths of an inch call for more extreme action. You can usually do that with surgery, either reductive or augmentative, but you might end up with a car that looks truly weird due to your surgery. A better solution is using Kadee couplers with offset knuckles. This means that that the knuckle (the fist-shaped, operating part of the coupler) is set either as high on its shank (the horizontal bar between the knuckle and the draft gear) as possible or as low as possible.

Coupler work is exacting but it isn't difficult. And it will generously reward you with reliable performance. The keys are using a coupler height gauge, picking a quality coupler and remembering that you are usually working with the car upside down so it seems like everything is backwards. That is, the knuckle which is supposed to look like a right hand (from the top) will look like a left hand (from the bottom). It will be confusing the first few times you work on your couplers but automatic after that.
                                                                                                                                                                                -- D

[Bob_B]

..........
     Durability. Metal lasts longer than plastic.
.........

That reminds me longhaul. Make sure they are metal if you intend to use magnetic decouplers.

[Woody Elmore]

There is no standard for couplers. Many years ago the NMRA came along with its suggested standard coupler - the x2f - which by now is obsolete. Pick a brand you like and stay with it.

[Len]

A valuable lesson learned regarding train shows...

For HO, you'll find a mix of the very old (Mantua hook & loop), old (horn-hook/X2F), and new (knuckle type) couplers on equipment you might be interested in purchasing.

In most cases converting Mantua and X2F couplers is fairly simple, but there are a few exceptions. So get VERY familiar with the conversion information found on the Kadee web site: http://www.kadee.com/conv/ho.htm The 'how to' info is generally applicable regarless of whose couplers you actually use.

So don't let a car or loco having the wrong coupler keep you from getting something you'd buy in a heart beat if it had knuckles already installed.

Len

[jward]

the best advice I can give for train shows is this:

there are many vendors out there selling older train set cars of low quality, the same goes for locomotives. you can save yourself a lot of headaches by carefully inspecting what you buy. for cars, the first thing I look for are body mounted couplers. most low quality cars have truck mounted couplers. conversion of couplers is much simpler on body mounted cars, because in most cases you'll want to body mount them when you do the conversion yourself.   for diesel locomotives, I look at the body. if the front and rear of the locomotioves have huge openings to allow truck mounted couplers to swing, I pass. if the wheels have traction tires, or if only one truck is geared I pass. and if the wheels are metal on one side and plastic on the other I pass. all are indicative of a very low quality locomotive. and unlike upgrading freight cars, there really is no easy way to upgrade a poorly made locomotive.

often what seems like a bargain is wasted money......

[longhaul]

My thanks to Jward-Len-Bob-Band Doneldon, I got some good information, I assume my Bachmann has the knuckle couplers, The only way to replace the cou[lers on the cars I bought is to pull out the truck and extract the coupler (no Screw)
I think I am going to have trouble so it might be best not to use the cars at all. I can always park them on a siding.
Thanks fellows
Larry (longhaul)   longhaul comes from driving a tanker for the fire department, every call was a longhaul with that baby

[jbrock27]

longhaul, much good advise previously given here.  I will add a few things.  Doc's (Doneldon) advise on the Kadee Height gauge is spot on.  Kadee makes 2 kinds, the #205 which is metal and #206 which is plastic.  I bought and use the #206 in case I am a bonehead and have the power on the track when I place the gauge on the track-this way the plastic gauge does not create a short.
I use Kadee, Backmann EZ Mark II and McHenry spring couplers, all with success.  The important thing to me is that any knuckle coupler you use, has a spring in it.  It makes for better operation no matter what brand.  To add to Jeff Ward's list of what to look for, if you make a habit of buying at train shows, is make sure whatever you buy that has knuckle style couplers equipped, have their springs.  While it is not impossible to buy and replace the springs for those missing on Kadee's, it can be a pain in the ass and takes practice to do so w/o sending springs flying off to never never land.
I also have to disagree with 2 things Doc said and 1 thing Bob B said.
To respectfully contradict Doc, I don't agree it is necessary to have all couplers be exactly the same.  The important thing, as he stated, is that your couplers be at the same height and this can be accomplished in the ways mentioned previously.  I actually find converting to body mounted couplers to be fun and rewarding.  It also takes some practice.  I would suggest trying it the first time on a freight car that will not break your heart or bank if you don't get it right the first time.
I disagree with what Doc said about using regular pliers to adjust the trip pin (black thing that looks like an air hose).  I have tried, it does not work.  If you are going to be doing a lot of trip pin adjustments, I would get the Kadee Trip Pin pliers as a worthwhile investment.  I will be honest, I do not have a pair, but if I do more pin adjustments, I will be getting them.  You can GOOGLE search for them; I am told GOOGLE is my friend...
Lastly, I don't agree with what Bob B said about needing metal knuckles (couplers) to be able to magnetically uncouple.  All trip pins are metal, and I have been able to uncouple the above 3 mentioned brands on a magnet mounted on the track, as long as the trip pin hangs down far enough to catch the magnet (and not catch track or turnouts).
Good luck with things.

[Doneldon]

While it is not impossible to buy and replace the springs for those missing on Kadee's, it can be a pain in the ass and takes practice to do so w/o sending springs flying off to never never land.

jb-

It's not quite accurate to say that coupler springs never never land. They all come down eventually (what goes up, etc.). The problem is that they become transformed while airborn into tiny dust particles, never to be seen in their natural state again. Heck, even Peter and the lost boys wouldn't be able to find 'em.
                                                                                                 -- D

[jbrock27]

And believe or no Doc, don't ask me how, but I have been able to find every spring that managed to go flying from my Xacto knife 

[Woody Elmore]

Kadee makes a spring tool - it works well. there is also the old trick of putting sewing thread through the coupler spring. It helps you find it if it should fly off and you can pull it out when the spring is properly seated.

I also agree about the importance of having and using a coupler height gauge. Kadee makes one and Micromark has another kind.

There's lots of good advice about buying used rolling stock. Why spend a few dollars on a so-so model just because you got the items for a bargain.

[Doneldon]

And believe or no Doc, don't ask me how, but I have been able to find every spring that managed to go flying from my Xacto knife  

You're a better man than I am, Gunga Din. And your eyes are apparently better, too!

[jbrock27]

Not so fast Doc.  I just had to buy a magnifying glass so I could see small detail up close

Thanks for tip on spring tool Woody.  I did know that.  I am getting good using the Xacto.  If I am not mistaken, I believe you have mentioned the thread trick somewhere before.  Isn't it tough, getting the thread/needle through that small a spring though?

[Len]

It's not all that hard to upgrade cars with couplers mounted on a truck that snaps in to the body, e.g., old Tyco, Model Power, etc. Especially since there are a few that have never been done by anyone else.

The quick and dirty method: Pop the truck off, remove the horn-hook coupler, install a small hole Life-Like knuckle coupler. While you've got the truck off, pop out the wheels and use a "Truck Tuning Tool", available from Reboxx or Micro-Mart, to clean out the journals, then replace the wheels. This will get the car rolling until you get around to doing a body mounted coupler.

When you have more time, upgrade the trucks and body mount the couplers:

Pop the original trucks off and fill the mounting hole flush with the bolster with J-B Weld 4-Minute Epoxy. One thing I've learned is even though it says '4-Minute', let the epoxy set up over night.

Sand or file any excess epoxy off, so the bolster is clean and smooth. Drill new holes in the epoxy with a #50 drill bit in a pin vice. Tap the new holes with a 2-56 tap.

Hold a coupler box to the end of the underframe, mark the mounting hole location, drill with a #50 bit, and tap for a 2-56 screw. Mount the box to the body with a 1/4" 2-56 screw. Use thin styrene, or the shims available from Kadee, to shim the box to the correct height if necessary.

Use a 2-56 scew to mount the truck and wheel assemly of your choice to the body.

Personally I favor Kadee trucks with Intermountain wheels. Except for cars with an 'End-of-Train' device mounted. For those I use Ring Engineering trucks. One with electrical pick-up for the EOT device, and a plain one for the opposite end.

Len