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Bachmann N Scale Tenders

Started by tjerrard, April 16, 2013, 02:34:32 PM

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tjerrard

Q1 - Is the 0-6-0 slopeback tender that is for sale in the Online Catalog a DCC ready tender &/or is it all wheel pickup?

Q2 - I have an N Scale 4-8-2 DCC on Board Mountain Steam eng. It is missing a screw that holds down the board in the tender to the tender base. The part is 10597. Does anyone know the size/specs on this screw so that I may get a replacement?

Thanks
Tom

rustycoupler

Iwish they would sell the j tender by itself.

skipgear

Quote from: tjerrard on April 16, 2013, 02:34:32 PM
Q1 - Is the 0-6-0 slopeback tender that is for sale in the Online Catalog a DCC ready tender &/or is it all wheel pickup?

The Spectrum short slopeback tender has all wheel pickup but no light board as the other DCC ready tenders do. Because it doesn't have the lightboard, it doesn't have the 6 wire connector either. Even a micro decoder is a tight fit in these tenders but it can be done.

Quote
Q2 - I have an N Scale 4-8-2 DCC on Board Mountain Steam eng. It is missing a screw that holds down the board in the tender to the tender base. The part is 10597. Does anyone know the size/specs on this screw so that I may get a replacement?

Thanks
Tom

Honestly not sure but it's not a big deal really, any small screw that fits should do the trick. There should be two screws holding it down, take the one that is still there out and use it for a comparison.
Tony Hines

Modeling the B&O in Loveland, OH 1947-1950

ALCO539

#3
Tom,

That screw is of course metric. Checking one in a tender I have it measures 1.6mm. I compared it to a set of jewelers taps and dies I have and it's a number 2 of the set (2mm, nominal size?, rolled thread screws are smaller than their stated size) This is not an inch number 2, IE 2-56. The chart with the tap and die set says a number 2 has a DIA of 1.6mm and a 0.34 pitch. You could retap it for the nearest inch size which is 1-72, a 0-80 is too small, and wouldn't hold.

My local ACE Hardware has some metric screws, but I don't think it has anything that small. A well stocked LHS may have it. Even if the shop doesn't have much in the way of trains (like mine), the RC stuff is most likely all metric. The LHS would have a 1-72 screw, but may not have a tap. If you can find a 1-72 in steel you can make it "cut" (form) it's own threads. I wouldn't try it with a brass screw however, use a tap.

I hope this helps.

Regards, Charley.

tjerrard

Charley & Skipgear

Thank you both. The info is what I was looking for.

I know my LHS has a large selection of screws and now that I know what I am looking for I will stock my parts bin.

Tom

tjerrard

For info purposes::

I have found out that the screw that holds the engine shell on the chasis of the 0-6-0 works as a replacement for the 10597 screw in this particular instance. The 0-6-0 screw is very slightly longer and the head is slightly bigger but other than that is works fine.

Tom

ALCO539

Tom,

I'm glad you found something that works.

If the hole is tapped all the way through the tender frame, and I think it is. Make sure the extra screw length isn't fowling the movement of the front tender truck or the drawbar. Also, a larger head could short the circuit board, if the traces are close.  Use a fiber washer to "take up" the extra length in the screw and insulate the head. Yeah, "I've been there and done that". No washer, you can make one or two from sheet plastic of any type, even card board.

Regards Charley.

tjerrard

#7
Charley
The hole is tapped all the way through and the screw does peak out about one thread worth. I have put it in the rear hole it does not seem to snag the truck but I will check closer. I had the same thought about the traces on the circuit board but I was called away before I could check that. My thought was to make a styrene washer which would probably solve the screw length issue.

Thanks for your added tips.

Tom

ps The screw I used will not be needed for the 0-6-0 engine shell as the shell stays on without the screw and the screw head sticking out on the top of the stack of the 0-6-0 looks funny anyway.
I pulled the 4-8-2 tender apart again to look at the screw and happened to put the screw down beside the 0-6-0 eng shell screw. I had pulled the 0-6-0 out to look at its inards contemplating wiring on it when I went back to the 4-8-2 for another look. Just chance brought the two scews together.