track type; which is better?

[jward]

replace it. old locomotives with traction tires are usually of low quality and the tires themselves are can be a source of derailments. you can often pick up a bachmann gp40 online for about $30-40 and it will run so much better than what you have.  there is a reason the newer gp40s don't have traction tires.

[rbryce1]

You can also try Bull Frog Snot to replace the traction tires.  I have used it, it's easy to apply, there are real good videos on how to do it on You Tube and it works great.  But, a container of it costs almost as much as Jeff said the replacement engine costs ($24.00), however a container will do about 2.3 x 10² of wheels. 

[jbrock27]

Lamy, with all due respect to Rob's suggestion, I would second Mr. Ward's suggestion.  There have been too many good  locomotives made since they ran with traction tires on them, to continue so screw around with ones that still have them or locomotives that are driven by only 1 set of trucks.  And my added suggestion is to find a locomotive that has dual flywheels.  Others may disagree, but I have found that locomotives with flywheels at either end of the motor, run and pull better than those that do not have flywheels.

[rbryce1]

And I would agree with both Jeff and jbrock27 as well.  I offered the Bull Frog Snot option in case there was some sentimental value to the locomotive and you wanted to continue to use it.  I did state the Bull Frog Snot costs about the same or close to the cost of another engine, but it would at least allow you to keep using it.

[jward]

one thing you can do with older locomotives is park them on an electrically isolated track in the yard. real railroads often do this when they have a surplus of locomotives.

[Doneldon]

I am also going to integrate some nickel silver track that everyone raves about

JB-

Don't get your hopes up that nickel-silver rails will solve all trackage woes because it won't. You'll still have to pay attention to the basics like making sure that you have no kinks at rail joints, rail joiners are used correctly, your grades are reasonable, and so on. What the NS track will do is conduct electricity better than steel alloy (but not as good as brass), look better than brass, and develop oxidation which is conductive, as opposed to both brass and steel. So I don't think anyone intends to "rave" about NS track; it's more like it's the smartest kid in the dumb row.

                                                                                                                                      -- D

[rbryce1]

Brass may conduct better than NS ... as long as the brass does not have a corrosion or passive layer formed on the track's surface.  I find that NS needs cleaned occasionally, but not as much as brass does.  Brass's passive layer is not near as conductive as NS's passive layer, which is why I prefer NS over brass.  Steel rails are not even in my vocabulary.  

So I don't think anyone intends to "rave" about NS track; it's more like it's the smartest kid in the dumb row.
                                                                                                                                     -- D

The trouble is, it's the only row !!!

[jbrock27]

Doc, don't worry, I get it.  Thanks for keeping my hopes in line.  Not looking to solve any trackage "woes" or use NS as a panacea for all ills, just bought some NS to have on hand for my layout redo to "give a shot".   And I have to disagree, I think "rave" is the proper term for how most people describe the use of NS track over brass (what I use now exclusively) and steel.  Yes Rob, steel is not in my vocabulary either, as I have stated before that I would not willingly buy it.  Although I do have some set up for test track and it has been fine for that purpose.    Someone gave me the steel track

I believe you are correct Rob that brass does conduct the best, assuming oxidation has not formed and correct also that NS oxidation conducts better than brass oxidation.  However, I have yet to experience problems with brass, when running trains on it often.  I have used Wahl clipper oil and even an old LL track cleaning car with success. 
I have put out the question previously, of where I can get a small scrap piece of Masonite as I would like to build a track cleaning car around it.  No luck at Home Depot.   

[JNXT 7707]

Fair question JW.
It is because of looks and I want to had another 2ft of area, do the scenery up right etc.  Thanks again for the tip on the Atlas piers, bc I just bought some for the revamp.  Trust me, I am no hurry to do it  tomorrow.   Will continue to have some fun with what is there, then take on the new project.  What I have now, is mostly what I put together when I was like, 10 years old.  I am also going to integrate some nickel silver track that everyone raves about, along with some 22R curves and road bed, ballast.  Right now, no roadbed and an original poor choice of using particle board.  You see no pictures bc except for how the trains run on the track, it would be an embarrassement to me.  I have done a lot of learning though and that is cool

I made the same poor choice of particle board on my first layout. But this layout has been priceless in the things I have learned building it and I'm sure you are finding that out too. Likewise my second layout upped the bar another few notches. Best part is you're having fun - and I don't think you ever have the 'perfect' layout.

[jbrock27]

I agree with you JNXT about nothing ever being perfect.  I will say that I have viewed a lot of folks pictures of their work, locos, rolling stock, structures, scenery and such much of it to me, looks as perfect as you can get!
Yeah, as far at the particle board went, it was at a time I did not have a say in those kinds of decisions .  Next one will be all plywood base .

[jbrock27]

...and yes, the learning has been both priceless and yet fun too!

[Doneldon]

Next one will be all plywood base .

jb-

Plywood can change dimensions with humidity, too, though not usually as much as the various forms of manufactured sheet materials. One way to avoid the problem is to use extruded foam over or instead of the wooden sheet product. You can even do this when using a cookie cutter subroadbed.
                                                                                              -- D

[JNXT 7707]

Next one will be all plywood base .

I second the extruded foam base suggestion. My current layout is built out of that and I wish I'd started with that in the first place. Extremely lightweight but strong, and rigid enough that a plywood base really isn't mandatory. I use two layers of 2" foam. The bottom layer is the 'base' and the track is on the top layer. I've also carved out a river and used extra foam to build mountains. It's pretty easy to work with.

[jbrock27]

Ehhh, thanks for the suggestions fellas, but my plan did not include foam.  Not that I couldn't, but was not impressed with the foam board I found at my local Home Depot.  My plan is to use sectional track on cork roadbed glued to the 1/2" plywood base (remember by post a month or so ago looking for suggestions for what to use under sectional snap track?)
Then I was going to paint the other surfaces of the plywood and ballast the track.  Set up roads, houses, etc.

[Terry Toenges]

If using foam, just make sure it is extruded blue or pink board. The white bead board creates a big mess when carving it and is not as strong.