Uncoupling HO cars, how to do it???

[atan5543]

I am having trouble uncoupling HO
freight cars using magnets. Most times doesn't work. Is there a better uncoupling way other than magnets placed under the track? 
Very much appreciate replies.

Al T
Bow, NH

[rogertra]

What brand of coupler are you using?

Only Kadee provide magnetic uncoupling.

If you're not using Kadee, then you're out of luck with the magnetic uncoupling.

[richg]

Th magnets work very well when the magnets are properly set and the couplers adjusted properly. The real issue using the magnets is the required movements are not prototypical if you count rivets.
Our club uses a skewer or small flat jewelers screwdriver. There are a couple tools sold for this also. Micro Mark sells one. Micro Mark should be at the top of you trains list, especially for tools and they do sell some Bachmann products at a good price.

Rich

[THB-DAVE]

Kadee has a handy little video on there site showing you how its done, http://www.kadee.com/htmbord/videos.htm I have used there delayed magnet for 30 years with no problems, and love it.

[Bucksco]

Bachmann EZ Mate couplers are magnetic.....

[BIG BEAR]

I use only EZ magnets. The real trick is to make sure you do not have forward tension on the coupler as NO magnet will release a tight coupler. There must be slack or no tension on the coupler for any magnet to work properly. Take the time to do it right as most people try to rush every thing these days.


Enjoy,
  Barry

[Joe323]

I use the wooden skewers simple and I can uncouple anywhere

[rogertra]

I use the wooden skewers simple and I can uncouple anywhere

Ditto.  AFAIC, the best and only method to uncouple. Like the prototype, you can uncouple anywhere you like, not where magnets tell you to uncouple. 

[BIG BEAR]

Just 1 more "Helpful Hint" Coupling and un-coupling is best done on a straight piece of track, not on a curve.

Enjoy,
   Barry

[rogertra]

Just 1 more "Helpful Hint" Coupling and un-coupling is best done on a straight piece of track, not on a curve.

Enjoy,
   Barry

Generally true Barry but it does depend on the curve radius. 

For train set curves, 18 and 22 inch radius yes but for broader curves, say 30 inches and up, less so.

[CNE Runner]

There are a couple of alternatives to using the Kadee or Bachmann uncoupling magnets. I have had mixed results with the Kadee product over the years and have yet to visit a layout where they worked as advertised (yes,I know I haven't been to yours...but I'll bet the same results will occur if I did).

I have had mostly good experiences with the Rix uncoupler (available from Walthers and others); but they are rather large and tempermental (everything must be adjusted correctly and the uncoupling tool held just so). Skewers, on the other hand, work extremely well and are cheap. I bought my bag of shish-kebab skewers some years ago (probably from Walmart) and have enough to last me several lifetimes. I recommend purchasing the longer skewer - then cutting it to a length you like.

The secret with skewers is that you need to employ a clockwise 'twist' when uncoupling. Simply insert the skewer's point between the opposing coupler faces (you may have to put a little slack in the couplers) and twist clockwise. The couplers uncouple virtually 100% of the time.

Another secret: You can uncouple the cars as I have said above...then, using the pointed end of the skewer offset one of the couplers. Push the cars together such that the couplers are now misaligned. At this point you can push (only) the cars anywhere you wish with the locomotive. All the benefits of magnetic coupler action...without the expense and hassle.

A final thought just came to me. If you are wearing long sleeves whilst railroading, how 'droopy' are the sleeves? One can do a lot of damage with sleeves (brushing off brake wheels, tipping over cars or damaging structures/scenery)...we have all been there. If I am wearing ANYTHING with long sleeves, I use a piece of double-sided Velcro to hold any excess sleeve lightly against my arm (if you fingernails turn bluish, the train room is too cold - or the Velcro is too tight).

Enjoy,
Ray

[Doneldon]

Just 1 more "Helpful Hint" Coupling and un-coupling is best done on a straight piece of track, not on a curve.

Big Bear-

You are so right. I believe most modelers don't appreciate what a challenge it is to have couplers
which couple and uncouple reliably on curves. Model Railroader tested various brands of knuckle
couplers a couple of years ago and found that couplers of the same brand perform best with one another
(not a surprise) and that this is especially true for coupling on curves. The moral of the story is to stay
with one manufacturer's couplers (I prefer Kadees) and don't expect reliale service on curves even when
using just one brand of coupler.

                                                    -- D

[jbrock27]

Wouldn't it be better if this was in the HO Discussion section?

[jbrock27]

...and I have luck with EZ Mate Mark IIs knuckle couplers uncoupling on a track mounted magnet.  The air hose (trip pin) "sticks" to the magnet as long as it is full length and not trimmed.

[jbrock27]

I never heard of 18" and 22" radius curves demeaned as "train set curves" before...