Building my first RR (not counting the one I had as a boy 50+ years ago)

[Morgun 30]

Almost two years ago, I bought a Bachmann Rail King set so I could play with my grandson. Since then, I've been blessed with a second grandson and soon I've have a third grandchild. It was clear that the little oval and two freight cars wasn't going to be enough. More cars, more track, turn-outs, more cars, more track.

Setting up on the garage or kitchen floor and having to tear it down 2 or 3 days later was getting old. I finally got the wife to throw out some junk so I could have a permanent set up in the basement. I've come up with an L shape that is 13 1/2 ft long and the other leg is 8 ft. Except for the ends, it will be about 3 ft. deep. I'm building the table in 4 sections ( and will bolt them together) as I have to work in the garage and move in to the basement. I think this will also make it easy to explain in the future. Because the two largest sections are only 5ft x 3ft. I used some 1 x 2's I had for the framework. With the bracing on the legs, they seem to be sturdy enough.

I've been reading this forum for almost two years and have gotten a lot of useful info. I have used , and will use the search feature, but may a question or two down the road. The guys at the local train store and model RR club are very willing to help also. Most of what they say goes right over my head. I'm not stupid. I'm just uneducated, but I am learning. Since I live across the river from Rock Island, IL., I have a special attachment to the RI Lines logo. My loco's and rolling stock may never correctly match for the period in history. I might not know or use the proper terminology, and I may never go from a "guy that plays with toy trains" to a true "model railroader" but the more I do with it, the deeper I get pulled into this great hobby.

I might try to post pics, but only if you promise not to laugh

Morgun 30

[ryeguyisme]

even the die-hard model railroader like myself, started with the bare basics sometimes. I went from collecting any old thing to having my hear primarily set on standard guage D&RGW steam, but it's been a long road to get to that taste, and someday it might change... who knows?

The key thing is, it's your dream, your railroad, you can do whatever you like.

I may be an expert on brass steam locomotives, but I couldn't put two and two together when it comes to diesels. I've been told I'm the only 24 year old most have met with those particular interests in steam!

Finding Rock Island steam can only be found in brass.... and it's seldom to come by. But it's the same story with me, all the D&RGW standard gauge steam locomotives except a couple in plastic/diecast are only found in brass, and they aren't cheap either.

The only Rock Island engines I've seen so far are 0-8-0's, 4-8-4's and 4-8-2's. The 0-8-0's are the cheapest being made by PFM in the 60's, the other engines command a lot higher prices considering they were manufactured later.


PLEASE do show pictures, I've always been interested in other people's models and layouts, as they inspire me to some of my own projects!

[Doneldon]

Morgun-

Welcome back to model railroading. I know you'll continue to be charmed by the hobby and will find it a great place to interact with your grandchildren. Do remember that little kids sometimes prefer trains they can push along the track over those with motors, and that small trains (HO and smaller) are both fragile and somewhat difficult for little hands to manipulate. You'll often see that when children are trying to put wheels on rails. For those reasons, I suggest that you either go with Thomas the Tank Engine trains which run in plastic or wood troughs, not actual rails, or something like Bachmann's Big Haulers or Li'l Big Haulers.

Thomas trains are a huge hit with kids and they offer the possibility of including story books and videos with the railroading. Several companies make electric Thomas trains in different scales, including Bachmann, but those still have the fragility and manipulation problems. Tomy makes some terrific plastic Thomas trains and there are some wooden train knock-offs (Doug and Melissa) that are wonderful and way cheaper than the original wooden trains. Both offer locomotives which are motorized but can safely be pushed by hand because the motors disengage when the motors are turned off. (This isn't true of electric model trains.) I built roughly 3'x7' Tomy layouts for two of my grandsons who are now 16 and 12. They played with those trains daily and still talk fondly about them. Now I have another grandson (20 months) and I have begun a comparable wooden train layout for him. (Both of the others were sold by the kids so they could purchase video games but the 12-year-old asked me to build him a real HO pike, which I did. I'm switching to wood because the Tomy trains mostly had some weird hook and loop couplers which I think are outclassed by the magnets on the wooden trains.

Large scale trains are much more durable and easier to use than electric HO. If you stay away from the ridiculously expensive stuff (LGB, for example, and many of the 1:32 or 1:29 trains) you can have a nice layout for a sane price. You can also build it in no larger a space than what HO demands. My grandkids loved the Bachmann layout (6'x9') I had at our other house before we downsized, and the equipment was great for their use. You don't, however, need such a large platform. Reversing loops with Bachmann large scale trains require 51" (plus a little for a safety margin) but the whole surface doesn't need to be that wide. I haven't used the Li'l Big Haulers so I can't say much about them but I expect they would be about as durable and fun as the regular Big Haulers.

One-by-two lumber should be fine for framing smaller train boards but I wouldn't use it for larger sections because you want a pretty
solid surface. You can attach one side to the wall and have it fold up out of the way. That can be the start of a very firm surface. You
must take all movable or tall things off of the train board, of course, but that will get it up out of the way. Be sure to run some stringers
across the undersides of your platforms. Use 1x3 lumber for larger panels and put cross pieces under them, too.

                                                                                                                                                                         -- D

[jward]

i would steer clear of the 1x2 framing. better to go with 1x4s and build something sturdy enough to walk on. if your foundation isn't solid your layout won't be either.


1x2 can be used for bracing, l girders, or parts of table legs (i screw a 1x2 and a 1x4 together to make an l shaped leg).....

[RAM]

The only other thing I wonder about is the three foot ends.

[Morgun 30]

The only other thing I wonder about is the three foot ends.

Not 100% sure I understand, but the sections will be bolted together and should get some extra support from each other

[Morgun 30]

Jeff, I was wondering about that. Seems pretty study, but if I'm not 100% happy with it. I'll redo it. After all, does anyone ever do it right the very first time?

[Doneldon]

After all, does anyone ever do it right the very first time?

No.
Or the second time?
No
The third time?
No.
Fourth?
No.
Fifth?
No.
And so it goes. A layout which cannot be improved has never been built.

[jward]

it's a constant learning curve. i had the benefit of being a 3rd generation modeller, so i was able to see what others did and what didn't work. as a result, i'd rather overbuild than underbuild. i also tend to use dimensional lumber for track boards instead of plywood and homasote. 

even after 40 plus years in the hobby, i am still constantly learning things.