matching paint

[union pacific 844]

what paint will match bachmann two tone gray ho scale UP 4-8-4

[WoundedBear]

Any gray paint, from any manufacturer that is the same shade will work. There is no way to say specifically which brand/product number of paint to buy.

Bachmann seems to take a "devil may care " attitude towards color sometimes, as do other hobby companies, so other than finding paint from the exact batch that Bachmann used, you may never find the exact shade. You'll order some "special" shade of gray, that says UP on the label and chances are it won't match perfectly.

Go to your local craft/hobby store and find something close. That's the best you're going to be able to do.

Then read this thread.............paying close attention to The Bach-man's reply.

http://www.bachmanntrains.com/home-usa/board/index.php/topic,22747.0.html

Sid

[Jerrys HO]

I have found the Floquil brand is very close but usually I am painting the entire piece not doing touch up. Seriously you have to be more gentle with your trains. I don't think I ever really had to do any touch ups just painting added on details like visors and such.

http://www.hobbylinc.com/htm/flo/flof110167.htm?source=froogle&gclid=CLOcr73Z0rUCFQk4nAodwGYA2Q

Jerry

[on30gn15]

There is also the question of - what paint will not just bead up on Bachmann's paint.

Seems a bit random.

Any gray paint, from any manufacturer that is the same shade will work.

I deeply, deeply, deeply, disagree.

In talking about paint compatibility problems with Bachmann large scale trains on some large scale forums, lots of bandwidth. A lot of bandwidth. Huge chunks of bandwidth.

Recently discovered that Tamiya spray paint white in their aircraft models series beaded up on HO D&H GP38 that is to be repainted in Kathy's freelance colors.


Haven't yet decided what to do about it. Don't want to strip entire thing, want to keep blue and the yellow pinstripe.

As for me, the number of other modelers who asked why didn't you test it on the inside first - hey, guys, have you ever looked inside - there isn't any paint inside other than a few smudges of overspray.

[WoundedBear]

Sorry, but all I see in that picture is one of 2 problems.

First.....the paint was applied too heavily and probably too quickly (not enough time between coats).

Second.....if the paint won't adhere to the underlying coat, why not dust it with some dullcoat first. The dullcoat works as a primer.

Paint problems are seldom the paint's fault. Take the time to learn how to work with different types of paint, and you will find you can mix laquers, enamels and acrylics all into the same project.


Sid

[on30gn15]

Take the time to learn how to work with different types of paint,

Building models since 1965 and custom painting, for pay, model trains since 1983 not long enough yet?

[WoundedBear]

Had no idea how old you were.....if Bachmann would make the age box a mandatory selection when you sign up, we would have a whole lot better idea of who we are replying to.

You have similar age and experience as me. I too built professionally.

How was that example applied? Brush? Airbrush/ Rattle can? How was the surface prepped and what was the surface? Did you warm the paint? How was humidity that day? Did you use the correct reducer/thinner? Were the coats too heavy?

So many variables, that I always find it hard to blame the paint.

Sid

[GG1onFordsDTandI]

On30gen15- You probably know most of this, but others may pick up a trick or two, so here goes nuttin. I see either incompatible paints(water base over oil?), or contaminated surface(oil, silicone). Sand or scotch-brite scuff as close to the yellow line as you can. Sanding/scuffing leaves micro-grooves for the paint to fill and grab onto, which resists beading because it takes more surface tension to pull paint out of the grooves to form the bead. Double or triple mask to protect your stripe while sanding. Cutting in the edges with a brush first(like house painting)and your sanding near the edges can be sloppier. As long as the cut line edge isn't to thick and you sand the very edge of the cutline a bit, the next coat(spray) should blend well. While sanding will help, without a clean surface no paint has much of a chance especially on small scale items. While with care most paints can be blended, the "heat" of the evaporative solvent in the paints is key. Laquer thinner is "hotter" than regular solvents and using over most other paints requires thin coats full cures and crossed fingers. Softer paint gone over with a hard paint that that shrinks and levels as it dries and you get pulling and pinching. and of course oil and water don't mix. Ever have trouble painting over anti-rust paints?(rustolium) Its because rustolium contains a fish oil in its makeup. For real car gagrage painting a fisheye problem is often "in the air" contamination of primer. Once on, silicone(most common "garage air" contaminant) does not like to come off, it soaks it deep. A very old car painter about 20 years ago taught us to add 1 or 2 tiny drops of silicone, or whatever is contaminating, to the paint gun and mix well. Now the paints will "match" better and will fisheyes leave. Well 98% anyhow. Also try adding an air filter(or 2) to an air brushes airsupply to prevent condensation and compressor oil from fouling surface as you work. Well thats enough paint 101 out of me for the day. Good luck all. "Just visiting" ho today, drop a personal message if I can help more.