semi scale gg1 to r1 or dd2

[shurlock0]

I have the MTH scale GG1 and and it will run on 72 inch radius track, i dont have the non scale of any GG1. I have Mth p5a amd a Williams scale GG1 and they both run on 42 inch radius track I think thats the size track. If you put it on anything smaller it wont work and it kind of looks rediculous. I dont know if this will help anyone. I wish I had the scale Lionel GG1.

[GG1onFordsDTandI]

I have the MTH scale GG1 and and it will run on 72 inch radius track, i dont have the non scale of any GG1. I have Mth p5a amd a Williams scale GG1 and they both run on 42 inch radius track I think thats the size track. If you put it on anything smaller it wont work and it kind of looks rediculous. I dont know if this will help anyone. I wish I had the scale Lionel GG1.

Shurlock-Im looking for good axle to axle to axle, wheel height, and truck length measurements from powered trucks of the various full scale gg1's (for a kit bash) Think you could find a ruler and a little time?

[M1FredQ]

Saw the L..... GG1 in Semi scale at the Hobby Shop yesterday and must admit at 15 inches long and however they scaled it it does look really good !!

The WBB is 14 inches and looks "stubby". I do have both the Tuscan and Green 5 stripe.

Anyone have the Aristo CC1's at 14.5 inches?

[GG1onFordsDTandI]

Saw the L..... GG1 in Semi scale at the Hobby Shop yesterday and must admit at 15 inches long and however they scaled it it does look really good !!
The WBB is 14 inches and looks "stubby". I do have both the Tuscan and Green 5 stripe.
Anyone have the Aristo CC1's at 14.5 inches?

I thought both WBB,& L semi scales were "casting twins" I thought the K-lines semi scale shell was different. I sold my old lionel, but I thought it was more like My Williams.(I kept the quite one vs the value, they are both gems) Is that the same now that "they" own the k.? Or a fresher semi scale unique casting. I think everybody is more unique in full O scale. Lots  O' neat tricks on the various center cabs. Not a juice jack, but ever see Fords 125 ton center cab switcher, like a bigger GE 44 ton with a 1930s Ford slanted grill on each end.    http://www.bing.com/images/search?q=fords+125+ton+switcher&FORM=HDRSC2#view=detail&id=C5FA9309AD13365BDA8EF25A15CCA98E55480DF5&selectedIndex=0   
 
"A stretched 44 bash waiting?". (& a 1:28/32(?) grill from a Ford model?) Any way, have you wiggled GG trucks 1st to determine if the patient can benefit from the surgery? I had seen mine without removal. But took my time about it too. 
A reason not to cut is also more important 

[GG1onFordsDTandI]

Edit to above modification : Hey, one thing I forgot about until last nights re-lashing of my gg , even with mod you may still run into issues with coupler finger/pocket bind due to arch increase on the gg's with solid mounted coupler to trucks . It puts the coupler more outside of center(like o gauge pickups on 027 ) An articulated or body/mount coupler is always at the head of my rolling stock. It was necessary to overcome this "coupler kickout", I already had some cars/extra caboose ready with articulated couplers and forgot the regular solid couplers on cars would bind and an articulated coupler at the lead was important. My articulated passenger cars work well, but for freight I head and end my rolling stock tipped with a couple matching postwar cupola caboose salvages, each with new heavy weight aftermarket trucks with articulated couplers, 1 long/1 regular on each, to act as transition cars. The gg is always connected to a caboose first with freight or non articulated stock. To turn around I uncouple and switch engine from end to end by siding (or looping), but always re-attach to a caboose.  Im going to add part of this as an edit too but thought it deserved a message. Cant believe I forgot to mention it earlier