Engine runs too fast...

[Phillybeth]

I just purchased a Williams CSX U33C engine (item # 22203). I have it running on a fastrack layout. The engine runs so fast that I am not able to supply enough power to the system to operate the switches on the track. Is there any way I can decrease the amount of power that the engine receives so I can increase the power to the entire system? In essence I'd like to install a governor on the engine.

[phillyreading]

You could supply your switches with constant voltage, read the instruction manual from Lionel on the switches.
If you do anything to the engines you may void the factory warrenty. 
You could use a smaller watt transformer with your Willaims engine, or
You could put a small resistor inside at the wire coming up from the center rail roller  going into the circuit board.

Lee F.

[671]

Hi Phillybeth,

               If you go to the posting by Joe Satnik Dated May 27, 2012..." Series Wiring Mods For Dual Motored Williams and WBB Locos" The answer to your "prayers" will be found in that post.
               Joe gives you a very clear explanation as how to wire the motors from a parallel set up to a series set up. By doing this, your voltage throttle setting on your transformer will be advanced to almost twice the voltage to achieve the same Loco speed.
                I have done this to one of my dual motored Williams loco SD45. I am very pleased with the results. Very controllable throttle speed/settings = a more prototypical speed.
                Try it, you'll like it. Do not give up on Williams products. I have Steamers and Diesels by WbyB ( More than my wife knows ). They are an excellent product and value. I have Post war Lionel, I find myself running the Williams Locos more than the Lionel.
                Maintain you equipment ( Lubricate as in the instructions ). This will extend the life and fun of your trains.
                I too have a "U-Boat" READING color scheme. I power my trains with Post War 275 watt ZW's. The starting voltage on the ZW is above 7 volts. This causes the U33c ( U-Boat ) to run a little too quick for my slow pace of life. I will be following Joe's modification with the optional addition of a dual position switch. This will allow me to have the choice of parallel or series wiring at the flip of a switch.

                  Good luck, Joe is the type of guy that if you ask for help, he is more than willing to help.

                                         ... 671

                                                 

[phillyreading]

I run my Williams as freight trains with two powered SD-45's and so far I don't see a need to go to series wiring, usually have about 12 to 15 freight cars.
I could easily wire something in series but don't have the real need on my layout.
Maybe my power company is not supplying the full 120 volts or something.

I have come across a differant style transformer made by Troller Corp. that has 0 to 9 volts and 0 to 18 volt selection switch on it, controls two trains, also has accessory voltage outputs. I have used this transformer to test some of my Williams engines.
Currently using an MTH Z-1000 with my Williams engines.

Lee F.

[671]

Hi Lee F.,

         If you suspect that you home is not receiving the correct voltage from your power company, act upon this as soon as possible. Usually 115 volts ac at 60 cycles per second is standard. You could be higher or lower than that. A 10% factor is allowed. So your voltage could at times read as high as 126.5 volts ac or as low as 103.5 volts ac ( Brown out during heavy use periods ).
         Basically there are two types of "loads" found in the home environment. There is an inductive load. This is usually all forms of motors. Ie.  Fan motors, compressors  found in  A/C's , Refrigerators. Toy train motors, door buzzers and bells. Anything that creates a motion will be an inductive load. These items are the most susceptible to over or under voltage. They usually have a plus or minus 10% voltage design factor built into their design.
          Low voltage creates the problem of increasing the amperage draw to a given motor. The motor needs a certain total number of watts for its' given task. For instance, if your refrigerator compressor needs a total of 1,150 watts to run then you need to supply it with that many watts. If you house voltage is at 115 volts, the compressor will be drawing 10 amperes. It will be very happy and run at the design temperature and speed.
          Now I will take this example to the extreme for simplification. Let us say that you have an extreme voltage drop, instead of 115 volts your home is only receiving 57.5 volts. Well in that case the compressor motor still needs 1,150 watts to perform its' task. What happens? The amperage doubles ( 20 amps ) to satisfy the wattage need. If the compressor is on a dedicated 20 amp rated circuit, the breaker protecting that circuit may not trip in time to save the compressor. The compressor may short cycle on its' own internal thermal protector. Compressor failure will follow.

           That is an extreme scenario. Low voltage, not as extreme as this hypothetical case, will eventually breakdown the protective coating on the field windings within the motor. This creates a 'short' = replace the motor/compressor.
            Resistive loads can usually take more abuse without failure. Ie. bulbs,toaster,electric space heater etc.

            So the point that I am trying to make is this, Higher wattage transformers will only allow your trains to run at their given design parameters. The train's speed is not solely dependant on the wattage rating of the transformer. A low wattage rated transformer, could/will create heating at the transformer and or the Loco's motor.  The train only draws, in amperage, what it needs at given voltages to perform the task ( LOAD ). This is measured in watts. ( Ohm's Law... Voltage X Amperage = Wattage ) If we do not provide the needed amperage for a given voltage then something will fail. The transformer may overheat, the internal breaker may shut down the transformer. We as the operators of the train select the voltage that we want it to run at.
            Invest in a digital volt, ohm, amp meter. This will allow you to test your train outlet power. Test that circuit with other loads in the house on. You may have the correct power coming into your house, but your train may be sharing a circuit with a high load. Ideally, what ever the circuit breaker is rated at, rule of thumb is that it should have a constant load not to exceed approx. 80% of of the breakers trip rating.
            I am sorry for being so 'wordy', but correct voltage and amperage is so very important to inductive loads.

                            Keep on Chuggin'...671

[phillyreading]

671,

Just a little info, I checked the voltage at my 120 volt outlets and it is around 125 volts. The incoming line between the two main wires reads around 246 to 251 volts, so the voltage seems good but could the cycles be bad? Example 60 hertz or cycles verse 55 hertz. My power company is Florida Power & Light.

Like I mentioned before I never had a Williams engine run too fast, once a GP-9 got away from me but I did something dumb, mainly I need more power from my Williams engines, especially the F-7's.

Lee F.

[671]

Hi Lee F.,

          I would contact the power company and ask them to do a power audit on your house and the neighborhood. They may have a transformer that is acting up.

                                 Good luck...671

[Joe Satnik]

Dear 671,

Thanks for the kind words.

Dear All,

Simplest series mod, detailed about 2/3 of the way down here:

http://www.bachmanntrains.com/home-usa/board/index.php/topic,22060.0.html

Hope this helps. 

Sincerely,

Joe Satnik