Firebox & ash-pan flicker addition to Spectrum 2-8-0DCC w/sound?

[ganerd]

I know the large scale 2-8-0 DCC Connies have firebox and ash-pan flicker ... so anyone made a modification on a Spectrum HO scale 2-8-0? Surely it is possible. Need directions and/or drawings showing decoder outputs. Tried to find instruction somewhere on line, but unable to do so.
Thanks in advance,
Steve

[jonathan]

No one I know has done it. 

I happen to have a Connie disassembled at the moment.  There is no space for a bulb or LED between the firebox door and the split metal frame inside. 

One would have to mill out a space, in the frame for a flickering bulb, along with the mods to the backhead.

In HO scale, the ability to see the effect would be limited at best.  I have the flickering bulb in my Heavy Mountains.  I can only see it with the lights off and my face right up against the cab.  Can't see it when it's pulling a train.  It wouldn't be worth it to me.

The only advantage to tapping into the decoder would be the ability to turn on/off the flicker.  It may be easier to tap into the pick up wires and run the flicker directly from track power.  Just a thought off the top of my head.

Regards,

Jonathan

[Tom M.]

I have done this for a couple of my DCC installation clients.  I installed a TCS FL2 function only decoder in the tender to control the lighting effects.  You program one of the two function outputs to "flicker" mode and I mapped it to be controlled by F5.  I used tiny 0602 SMD LEDs.  They only come in either golden white or sunny white, so I had to tint them to get the red and yellow fire glow.  This was done using Tamiya translucent paint.  One of each color was installed at the base of the firebox door in the cab and two under the cab to represent the ash pan flicker.   You also have to install a supplemental 2-wire wiring harness from the tender to the loco to pass the power to the LEDs.  The affect is not very visible in bright light conditions, but in dim light or night operation it is very impressive.

If you really wanted to get creative, you could program both FL2 functions to flicker.  You could then map one to F5 for firebox door and F6 to ash pan.  That would allow you to control and use the functions independently and/or both at the same time.  If you used this approach, you would have to use a 3-wire wiring harness.

Good luck,

Tom

[Doneldon]

A really tiny slot or a couple of pin holes under the lip of a firebox door, or through the view ports on the firebox door, will let the flicker out in a most convincing way. This is an effect which I really like although I concede that it's not the easiest installation. Throw in some ash pan glow, turn down the room lights and it's like watching the Nickel Plate Berks that crossed our road to town when I was a kid in Indiana. It was very common that we'd go to town for an A&W or a Tastee Freeze late on a summer evening and there always seemed to be a train to wait for. My God, those were happy days.

                                                                                                                   -- D

[electrical whiz kid]

Doneldon;
Did you know Tony koester when you were growing up?  What a heck of a nice guy he is; not afraid to share information, knowledge, or stories of his experiences with the iron horsey.  I have usually gotten to say hi at the proto meet in Collinsville (Canton) Ct. when he is there.
Rich C.

[Doneldon]

Rich-

No, I've never had the pleasure of meeting Tony Koester but my impression of
him from his writing and video appearances is that he is just about as nice a
person as you describe.

                                        -- D

[ganerd]

I have done this for a couple of my DCC installation clients.  I installed a TCS FL2 function only decoder in the tender to control the lighting effects.  You program one of the two function outputs to "flicker" mode and I mapped it to be controlled by F5.  I used tiny 0602 SMD LEDs.  They only come in either golden white or sunny white, so I had to tint them to get the red and yellow fire glow.  This was done using Tamiya translucent paint.  One of each color was installed at the base of the firebox door in the cab and two under the cab to represent the ash pan flicker.   You also have to install a supplemental 2-wire wiring harness from the tender to the loco to pass the power to the LEDs.  The affect is not very visible in bright light conditions, but in dim light or night operation it is very impressive.

If you really wanted to get creative, you could program both FL2 functions to flicker.  You could then map one to F5 for firebox door and F6 to ash pan.  That would allow you to control and use the functions independently and/or both at the same time.  If you used this approach, you would have to use a 3-wire wiring harness.

Good luck,

Tom

Tom,
I am disabled, on a limited income and didn't really want to go to the expense or complexity of a decoder. Flicker candles can be purchased from Dollar Tree and already has the flicker circuit built in. They are warm white 3mm LED's and can be painted with translucent paint you mentioned ... BUT, it is 3 VDC!

Is there DC in the Connie that I can trow a resister on and install the flicker candle LED? Or maybe hook it to the headlight circuit with a small bridge and resisters so it is always flickering when the light it on.

Def like the Idea of putting small slit in the bottom of the firebox door. Let me know what you think and maybe everyone else can use that idea  also.
Thanks in advance,
Steve
.

[Tom M.]

Steve,

The Bachmann Spectrum 2-8-0 picks up both sides of track current.  As such, you should be able to power the LED by tapping into the loco power pickup wiring.  Because the LED is limited to 3v, you will need to install a current limiting resistor on one leg of the feed to the LED.  A value between 1K and 2.2K will work.  The biggest issue you will face is finding room for the LED.

Good luck,

Tom

[0-4-2_14xx]

http://www.modeltrainsoftware.com/flickering-led.html
These  are what i use

[Doneldon]

Steve-

You don't have to find a place to conceal your LED because you can paint the parts of the
LED which might otherwise cast light where you don't want it. That would let you have some
flickering in the firebox and ashpan. You can even dim the ashpan part by putting a very thin
coat of paint on the part of the LED which represents the ashpan glow.

                                                                                                            -- D