soldering

[union pacific 844]

how do you get solder to stick  and what kind is the best to use on dcc installs
?

[jward]

the best way to get solder to stick is to make sure your work is clean, and is hot enough to melt the solder. that said, solder does not stick to some metals such as aluminum, and has a hard time sticking to steel or pot metal. are you trying to install a decoder in an athearn locomotive by chance?

[union pacific 844]

soon  i well be installing in a bachmann 4-8-4 right now im  trying to solder leds and resistors  and wires but the solder won't stick  my soldering iron can melt the solder i have
 just won't stick to anything

[Doneldon]

844-

There is one thing to remember when soldering and another to remember when you are soldering wires: First, the surfaces to be soldered must be clean and free from oxidation or contaminants like grease or oil. Second, use rosin core solder or non-acid flux.

You don't generally need to do much cleaning when soldering wires, at least if they have been covered by their insulation. However, it is critical that all dirt, oxidation and contaminants be removed from exposed surfaces. There are a number of special tools to do this but a wire brush, some crocus cloth and/or some alcohol or acetone will generally do the job.

Don't use acid flux for any kind of electrical or electronic work. Over time, it will degrade the junction's ability to conduct electricity. Rosin core solder is okay. I have a little pot of flux which is like a soft wax. The flux will help clean the metal surfaces and keep them from reoxidizing as they heat up. You need very little. My little can of flux was used by my Dad to build the house I grew up in in about 1950 and it's still about half full.

Remember, too, that you need a physically strong junction as well as a good electrical one. For wires, that usually means a Western Union joint. That's easy to do. Put 90^o bends near the ends of your stripped wires. Cross them and wind each bent section around the straight section of the other. Then cover it all up with heat-shrink tubing.

I like to tin my surfaces to be soldered which means cleaning and putting solder on them before actully making the joint. That way I'll quickly join my materials without keeping the heat on too long which can damage the insulation, or worse.

Your soldered joint should be shiny. If it is dull or has a Jack Frost appearance you don't have a proper job. Unsolder it and start over.
A bad joint can often be fixed by just reheating but start fresh if one or two extra heating cycles don't correct the bad joint.

                                                                                                                                                                                      -- D

[jonathan]

Great advice from Doneldon, as usual.

Flux and tinning work wonders.

I would only add that you need to practice a bit.

At first, I couldn't solder to save my life.  After some trial and error, I got confident enough to tackle just about any MR soldering job needed.  After several years, I'm still learning and improving.

Stick with it. It gets better.  

Regards,

Jonathan

[Rod in PA]

Hi UP 844,
Check out this SoundTraxx web page, it's very informative.

www.soundtraxx.com/manuals/soldering%20guide.pdf

Good Luck,
Rod in PA

[richg]

Rosin flux and solder with Rosin flux. You can usually get this at Radio Shack.

Like everything in life, there is a learning curve. Practice on scrap wire, FIRST. You have to develop a technique that suits you.
Also, a proper soldering iron with the tip for what you want to solder.
Below is what I have been using for some years.



Some will tell you to get a cheap soldering pencil but they have experience at using one. I have, but the soldering station is much more suitable and flexible.

Rich

[richg]

What type of soldering iron are you using? Maybe a picture if you cannot describe it.
Does it have a plated tip?

Rich

[union pacific 844]

this is the one i have now http://www.ebay.com/itm/American-Tool-Exchange-pencil-Soldering-Iron-60-Watt-110-120-Volts-solder-/160912049243?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item25771b045b i plan on buying this one http://www.ebay.com/itm/251187974940?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1438.l2649

[jward]

60 watts should be plenty of heat. i use 25-40 watt irons.

like hunt mentioned, i suspect that you are not heating the work properly. solder will stick to a surface that is hot enough to melt it. heat the surface not the solder. when the surfaces are hot enough you should be able to touch the solder to the surface (not the iron) and it will melt and be sucked into the joint. for example, when soldering rail joiners, if the surface is hot enough the solder will flow inside the joiner.

[richg]

this is the one i have now http://www.ebay.com/itm/American-Tool-Exchange-pencil-Soldering-Iron-60-Watt-110-120-Volts-solder-/160912049243?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item25771b045b i plan on buying this one http://www.ebay.com/itm/251187974940?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1438.l2649

That is pretty much what I have. I use the conical tip at about fifty percent heat for DCC wires in the loco.
On track feeders, I use the screwdriver tip and about seventy five  percent heat.
Your mileage may vary some. Comes with practice.
For track feeders and rail joints, there will be a balance between applying the heat and touching the joint with the solder so you do not melt the ties. Again, practice with scrap track.
Some clip a couple ties off the track and slip them into place after soldering.

Some years ago I started using silver solder paste that has the flux in it. That type of solder is used a lot in production of PC boards. Again, takes a little practice but it works so well.
The solder you see in the photo I posted is excellent but expensive. It is used in high end audio equipment. About $45.00 for a one lb roll.

Rich