N-gauge switches - engine loses power and sometimes derails

[rwexelblat]

So I put together the recommended layout from the track pack.  At the moment I'm using the switches manually; they're unwired.

The tiny engine from the early steam blue B&O set hesitates or stalls on each switch.  I can often get through the switch by running rather fast, but then the engine or tender is likely to derail.  I did double check that the tracks are properly joined both by the "finger test" and with a magnifying glass.

Many on-line forums suggest that the switches need "tweaking" -- but I have no idea how to do this.

h e l p   please

<<addendum -- does the same thing powered>>

[Albert in N]

Noted that no one has replied earlier, so I will add my two cents worth of advice.  My limited Bachmann 4-4-0 experience was from the Union Pacific "Prairie Flyer" set.  When I bought the set new, I had an earlier N layout with Atlas track and turnouts.  Later, I rebuilt with a larger layout using Bachmann E-Z track and turnouts.  Then, I rebuilt my current layout using Kato Unitrack and turnouts.  I noted that my little 4-4-0 was not reliable on any of these turnouts, stalling or derailing.  Of course, it would sometimes run OK at speed over the turnouts, but derail or stall the next time around the loop, or figure 8 crossover.  Since this "Prairie Flyer" was a UP passenger set, I bought a Bachmann 2-6-2 Prairie in UP colors (item# 51551) and used it to pull the train.  I stopped using the 4-4-0.  Looking at the little 4-4-0, it has skid-type "wheels" on the tender, short wheelbase, and traction tires (rubber does not conduct electricity).  If I continued to use it, I would recommend a simple oval or "dog-bone" shaped layout without turnouts or crossings.  Then, it would run OK.  Otherwise, consider a larger loco.  I doubt that anything is wrong with your turnouts.   

[rwexelblat]

Thanks.  Since I live near Philly, I'm thinking of taking the turnouts to Bachmann and having them check them out.  Meanwhile, I'm designing a "paper-clip" layout with one pass-over and no turnouts.

[Albert in N]

Any elevation in track, such as an overpass, will reduce the number of cars that you can pull with any locomotive.  On my level layout, my Bachmann 4-4-0 would pull the three passenger cars that came with the set.  However, adding one car would cause it to stall.  I would be surprised to see the little 4-4-0 pull more than one passenger car up a hill.  Try to visit a layout with a hill before you build, since it might save you dollars and time.  Basically, the B&O 4-4-0 passenger set is simply a blue version of the same locomotive passenger set from 30 years ago.  It remains fun to run, but does have limitations.  If you want a layout with a hill, a diesel loco might be a better option.

[brokemoto]

I am assuming that the turnouts are the 'new and improved' version, that is, they have the two exposed wires.  I am assuming, from your 'addendum', that you did screw the two exposed wires together to make the frog live.

The eight wheeler in that set is the 'new and improved' version.  These seem to have more consistent performance characteristics model-to-model than the older versions used to have.  The older versions tended to vary wildly in performance.  GF has one that will pull twelve nineteenth century cars of various manufacture, all on MT, MDC or Athearn trucks, up a one per cent grade at twenty SMPH.  That might have been close to the limit of the prototype.  I have two that can barely get out of their own way.  The last paper box versions and all of the plastic box versions of this are allright pullers, considering their size.  I have several of these amd they  will pull four to six cars up a one per cent grade at fifteen SMPH.  These are well broken-in locomotives, mind you.

Now, back to the track.  Unlike the recent issues of the eight wheelers, I have found that the E-Z TRAK tends to vary in quality, piece-to-piece.  I have run into defective curved pieces as well as defective turnouts.  Swapping them out for other pieces of the same track has solved the problems.  One thing to look for in the turnouts is to make sure that the moving rails do  not wobble.  I have run across two like that.  If you purchase a replacement, be sure that you buy the turnout in the yellow package.  The blue package is the older version.  I have one turnout with the blue package.  The instructions on how to make that frog live are not very clear.  Another thing to look for is to make sure that the rail joiners did not get ruined when you put the track together.  I have seen that more than once, as well.  If that has happened, purchase some new rail joiners.  It is EXTREMELY difficult to get the rail joiners off these things, but it can be done.  A test that I do to make sure that the pieces are properly joined is to lift up each edge.  If the corresponding edge on the adjoining piece comes up, it is properly joined.  If it does not, there is a problem.

There are two E-Z TRAK and two PECO electrofrog turnouts on the main line of one of  my pikes.  My eight wheelers will go over all main line turnouts at fifteen to twenty five SMPH.  The eight wheelers must have metal frog turnouts, or they will stall at reasonable speeds.  This is not a design defect, it is just the extremely small wheelbase that causes this.

[rwexelblat]

The set came with two passenger cars and the engine seems to be able to pull those up a 3% grade. 

You say, "I am assuming, from your 'addendum', that you did screw the two exposed wires together to make the frog live." 

Well, the switches came in the add-on track set and they came with no instructions at all.  I am a total noob here and don't even know what a "frog" is.  If I look on the bottom of a switch, most is covered with a metal plate but at the end of the curved section, there's an uncovered bit with two red wires, each attached to a screw terminal and leading back under the base cover.  Are these the "exposed wires" I should join?

Thanks for your help here.

[brokemoto]

Yes, unscrew one wire, take the wire off the plastic nub and replace the screw.  Unscrew the other wire, put the screw through the lugs of both wires, then screw them to the remaining nub.  You have the 'new and improved' version of the turnouts.  Give al track a good track erasing.  That should solve your problems.  If you do not have a track eraser, your Friendly Local Hobby Shop should have one, or you can order one on-line.  It would probably be a good idea to order more stuff so that it will make it worth your while.  If you like  nineteenth century equipment, Athearn sells 1880s locomotives and rolling stock and Atlas sells a 1870s 2-6-0.  Micro-Trains has announced Civil War era rolling stock and will be selling Civil War sets with the B-mann eight wheeler.

B-mann is selling a 2-6-0 that is really VERY late nineteenth century early twentieth.  It is a very good runner and not a bad puller, once you break it in.  I highly recommend it. it is the best one since the 2-8-0.  The SPECTRUM 2-8-0 is an excellent locomotive.  It represents a 1911, or so, prototype.  B-mann also sells a 4-6-0 that is very good.  It represents a mid 1890s to early 1900s prototype.