Another Car lighting problem

[keystone]

I have 2-- 11 1/2 " H-0 passenger cars. Bought new about 4 years ago. Never ran them as they wouldn't clear my tunnels. I can find no markings as to who the manufactor is. Just placed them on a test track and no lights. The pickups are working from the trucks to the floor of the body and contact transfer beyond looks fine. I can't see any lights in in the interior ceilings through the windows. These cars are hard to get apart and I don't want to dismantle any further. My layout is DCC I have tried DCC current in the track and the old DC . Nothing. Any clue as to who made these cars ? I'd like to contact the MFG for help . Well made, beautiful cars, Interior details etc.
Joe

[GN.2-6-8-0]

Lets see,.,.....you have two four year old 11'1/2" passenger cars
Think were gonna need a little more info......a picture or three might help!

[digitalgriffin]

Walthers Cars have two screws on top on each of the trucks (if you take them off and examine the top of them.)

The good news (unlike most brands) is they are prewired for lighting.

The bad news is you have to buy lighting separately.

The really bad news is walthers doesn't sell them any more. :-(

The semi good news, it is isnt' hard to add lighting even better then the "mass" produced stuff by walthers.

[keystone]

 ;Digitalgriffin................You hit the nail on the head !! I did order these 2 cars from Walthers. I have contacted them, but haven't heard back as yet.
Yes, appears to be wired for lites but no lights. Yes, 2 screws at top of truck. You solved my problem.
Now any idea as to futher dismantle, so lites can be added ?  Wondering if Walthers has an exploded diagram ?  Will await a Walthers reply.

Thanks so much.
Joe

[digitalgriffin]

;Digitalgriffin................You hit the nail on the head !! I did order these 2 cars from Walthers. I have contacted them, but haven't heard back as yet.
Yes, appears to be wired for lites but no lights. Yes, 2 screws at top of truck. You solved my problem.
Now any idea as to futher dismantle, so lites can be added ?  Wondering if Walthers has an exploded diagram ?  Will await a Walthers reply.

Thanks so much.
Joe

This is a video on how to open them.  Even Walthers recommended this way.  Although I never did this method myself...made me a little edgy to twist them this much.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cr2A-QrqiPc

[keystone]

Digitalgriffin.............to the rescue again. Watched video, yes scary but works. I have the 2 roofs off. Now to find a lighting bar or system for DCC , so I can add lights. You've been a great help.  Thanks so much
Joe

[doctord_fl]

Heres an idea
http://www.div4.org/sub_pages/diy001.html

I spoke to the author and he said he did this two years ago.

Anyone want to weigh in on this?

Dan

[digitalgriffin]

Heres an idea
http://www.div4.org/sub_pages/diy001.html

I spoke to the author and he said he did this two years ago.

Anyone want to weigh in on this?

Dan

Here you go, he is using this:

http://www.ledwholesalers.com/store/index.php?act=viewCat&catId=100

They are VERY bright given their spacing.  I recommend either this in WARM White (incandescent like)
http://www.ledwholesalers.com/store/index.php?act=viewProd&productId=474

High CRI (Color Rendering Index) means it's closer to the spectrum of sunlight.  (This is what I plan on using on my double deck layout)

http://www.ledwholesalers.com/store/index.php?act=viewProd&productId=755

You connect them to a power source with these.  They clip right on.  The red wire connects to the positive side of a full bridge rectifier.
http://www.ledwholesalers.com/store/index.php?act=viewProd&productId=857

14.25VDCC - 1.4 Volts (Full bridge rectifier) = 12.85 VDC.  The lights take 12V, but this is close enough to be safe.  It's only 7% over spec, and by the time you pass through the track, truck, and wiring contacts the voltage is probably closer 12.25 VDC or so.

Micromark also sells, these, as well as Amazon and eBay.  So you don't have to shop here.  But their prices are reasonable and they have a wide selection.

[doctord_fl]

digitalgriffin, 

Do you see any issues with running this light setup as descriped on the website for DCC?
http://www.div4.org/sub_pages/diy001.html

Dan

ps. I have 18 SP Daylight cars to light... This could be a less expensive way to get some (Alot) of light in the cars.

I also think a deflector under the lights to create indirect light

[digitalgriffin]

I see no problems other then the slight overvoltage which may reduce the life of the LEDs slightly. 

If you want to reduce the brightness and voltage, you can stick diodes in series in the circuit path.  Each one will reduce the voltage by .7 volts.  A full bridge rectifier passes the current through 2 diodes, which causes ~1.4V drop. 

I did this with my diorama at work and reduced the lamp voltage to 10.6V to increase their life, and to put 6.4V to the track (enough to get the sound decoder started on a train).  It's a very useful trick and diodes can be as cheap as $0.10 each.