American 4-4-0

[Cascade Northern]

I have just bought a new Union Pacific #119 4-4-0 American.  When I was test running it on my layout, which a friend built, it always derailed at the switches or areas where the track separated slightly.  I then built a small oval on a table to see if running it with no switchs would help, and yes it did.  Ran nice and smooth for about half and hour when I decided it was time to get some sleep.  Is there a way to add weight to the locomotive and/or tender or is this a track problem. 

Also, the coupler height on the locomotive is a little higher than my other cars, so when I hit a slight hill, the cars uncouple.  Is there a better coupler I could be using, or is there a way to lower the locomotive/raise another cars coupler?  The coupler I currently have is the standard Bachmann factory coupler.  I do have an Atlas locomotive that came with Accumate couplers,  would that be a better choice?

Thanks

[GlennW]

1) It's difficult to tell if your American has a problem if it is your only loco? It seems to be finicky about any burrs on the turnouts. You may have to file down any nips.
2) The little Atlas Mogul is very close in era. You may be better off with it. For SLOW operation, try the Atlas Shay.
3) Another choice in older steamers are the Athearn/MDC 2-8-0's & 2-6-0's. The 2-6-0 s/b in hobby shops very soon if not on Monday.
4) I'm not sure about coupler conversion. The easiest is to be sure the existing coupler/spring is mounted properly. You can tryre-springing it. If this fails, you can try the Atlas/Athearn locos.

[Cascade Northern]

Springin it???  Not sure what that is.  I am mainly a G-Scaler so the N-Scale terms are still new.

A thing I forgot to mention.   The locomotive only derails when it is moving towards the points.  Though it does kinda jump when it is moving towards the tailend of the switch.

[nscaler711]

it sounds like your wheels are out of guage.
you need to pick up an NMRA wheel/track guage and use it to see if the wheels are in guage...if not you need to push/pull them back into guage.

[brokemoto]

I am assuming that the layout that the friend built for you has plastic frog switches.  If that is the case, you must run this locomotive at speeds faster than prototype.  This locomotive tends to bob as it goes along the track, which might cause it to pick switches at high speeds as it does not ride on the track properly.

Also, the wheels may, in fact, be out of gauge.

If you will spend quite a bit of time breaking in this locomotive on your loop, it will hold a steady thirty SMPH, which is a pretty good speed for this locomotive. 

Next, use metal frog switches on your layout.  Be sure to gap appropriately and put feeders where needed.

If you run it at prototypical speeds over metal frog switches, it will not stall, which it will do over plastic frog switches.

Re-gauge the wheels, break in the locomotive and use metal frog switches on the layout.

[Cascade Northern]

you must run this locomotive at speeds faster than prototype.  This locomotive tends to bob as it goes along the track, which might cause it to pick switches at high speeds as it does not ride on the track properly.

Are you sure that is right??
You say at the end that running at high speeds cause the train to derail, so why must this loco be run at faster that prototype speeds (aka high speeds) to get through the switches. 

Also, GlennW, what do you mean by springing the coupler?

[GlennW]

Springing the coupler: In some designs, you can carefully recoil the spring & let it resit on the coupler shank back. Sometimes the coupler gets twisted out of alignment in any direction. In other cases, you can replace a bent spring. Different mfr's use different springs. Old Con-cor's may be the most robust. This can help fix a droopy coupler. When completed, the coupler s/b square in the pocket with some springy play that allows the coupler to easily slip over/under it's mate for coupling. It should return to center to provide the best fit.

For Bachmann cars, you may want to makeup a jig similar to MTL's coupler test guide. I've converted enough A1G cars to have a few spares around. Some of them will someday get Unimates for the MOW crews. I don't know if Bachmann has any plans to have new knuckle trucks/ couplers to replace their Rapidos.

It appears the depressed center flats may be the first freight cars released with the new knucke couplers. More will follow. I'd have to see if any of them would fit on standard line steamer tenders??

[brokemoto]

I have several of these.  I do not have the derailing problem that you are reporting, as a rule. 

What I am trying to communicate is that you have choices: 

choice #1-use plastic frog switches, run it at speeds faster than prototype.  At high speeds, its inertia will carry it over the spots where it loses contact, but you risk derailment.

choice #2- spend time breaking it in.  Use plastic frog switches.  Run it at prototypical speeds.  It will lose contact on the plastic frog switches and stall frequently.

Choice #3- Do not use any turnouts.  Break it in, or not, as you choose.  Run it at whatever speeds you can get it to run.  Have no derailments or stalling.

Choice #4-  spend time breaking it in.  Use metal frog switches.  Gap and wire as required.  Run it at prototypical speeds.  Enjoy your locomotive and the train that it pulls.

In any event, be sure to check and correct, if necessary, the wheel gauge on the locomotive.

[ftauss]

I was running mine this weekend and had a similar proble. I found the pilot (cowcatcher) was bent down a bit and that was catching. Bend it up slightly.

It did better than some of the more expensive engines through break in.

Frank

[Oldcoyote]

Hello,
If the engine coupler is too high try lowering it with thin shims of paper or styrene.
If it not real high, the paper or cardstock shim should work quite well.  Matched
coupler heights in my mind are extremely important with N and Nn3 scales.

Just a thought, good luck!


Oldcoyote...........................