Brand new Bachmann DCC engine keeps stopping at 2 places on track

[ejdent]

I have just started with DCC, no problem programming the two engines. I have 2 separate oval tracks and both engines works when addressed. The problem is that the tighter loop has a dead spot the same place on both straightaways. When I tap the engine it starts right up, the headlight stays on. I have switched out the straight track (one of the pieces of track is brand new out of the packaged and purchased with the engines 2 days ago. I have engines 51804 and 51803, 2-6-0 steam engines. I have put a track cleaning car on the track also. The connections between the sections see fine also. any suggestions. Thanks Ed

[jward]

do the tracks depress when the locomotive goes over them?  if so, the weight of the locomotive may be causing the rail joiners to lose contact. i solder my joints for just this reason, but if you are using steel track soldering will be a problem.

your best solution may be to make sure all your track is fastened securely to the table top.

[Tomie]

I have a 51805 2-6-0 that stops at one place also.  I have cleaned the track, even ran a cleaning car behind engine but it still stops.  A small push and the engine runs fine.  My headlight goes out, indicating a loss of electricity.  I would like to hear from someone also.

Tom

[wjstix]

It could be something more hard to remove, like paint or glue, has gotten on the track. You might try a 'brightboy' to clean the rails. Also don't forget to clean the wheels.

However, it's very true that if the track can move up or down a little it can cause the joiners to lose connection. Maybe try replacing the straight tracks in question with power-feeder tracks and see what happens??

[electrical whiz kid]

My experience (I am the worst track-man you will ever find) is that I now take many pains to make sure that the track is smoooooooth and well-thought out.  There is nothing more aggravating or disastrous (see: brass engine:  falling to floor) than watching one of your masterpieces wiggling and wobbling its merry mouse-like way round the layout, and stopping just out of hand's reach in the Looooong tunnel.  This is where the term "kit -bashing" originated (I think)...
RIchie C

[rogertra]

I have a 51805 2-6-0 that stops at one place also.  I have cleaned the track, even ran a cleaning car behind engine but it still stops.  A small push and the engine runs fine.  My headlight goes out, indicating a loss of electricity.  I would like to hear from someone also.

Tom

Sounds like you have loose or sloppy rail joiners.

Rail joiners are a very poor way to conduct electricity.  You need to soldier practically every rail joiner if you are going to rely on them for electrical continuity leaving just a strategic few for rail expansion and contraction.  However, the best way is to soldier feeders to every single section of rail, this is what I do.  Every three foot section of rail has a pair of feeders dropping down to the DCC bus.  Lengths of rail that are less than three feet long have the rail joiners soldiered.

Time consuming?  Yes.  Bullet proof?  You betcha!

[sd24b]

I have a 51805 2-6-0 that stops at one place also.  I have cleaned the track, even ran a cleaning car behind engine but it still stops.  A small push and the engine runs fine.  My headlight goes out, indicating a loss of electricity.  I would like to hear from someone also.

Tom

Sounds like you have loose or sloppy rail joiners.

Rail joiners are a very poor way to conduct electricity.  You need to soldier practically every rail joiner if you are going to rely on them for electrical continuity leaving just a strategic few for rail expansion and contraction.  However, the best way is to soldier feeders to every single section of rail, this is what I do.  Every three foot section of rail has a pair of feeders dropping down to the DCC bus.  Lengths of rail that are less than three feet long have the rail joiners soldiered.

Time consuming?  Yes.  Bullet proof?  You betcha!

i agree with rogertra.  sounds like a rail joiner problem.  I like to dress the ends and bottom of the rail with a file.  I never reuse a rail joiner on the mainline.  The other option is to solder the rail joiner if you can locate it, sometimes easier said than done.  Phil

[electrical whiz kid]

ROgertra has it.  You can use stranded or solid number eighteen copper for your "pigtails"-that is what leads like that are sometimes called.  If you are intimidated by the aspect of soldering, then there are a few good manuals that can help you tremendously.  If the pigtails are about twenty inches long, then that should cover most of your length demands.
Rich C.

[RAM]

I wonder if we are overlooking something.  ejdent said that he had two dead spot.  Yet the headlight stayed on.  If it was a dead spot the head light would not stay on, and just tapping on the locomotive would not make it go.  I think it may be a loose connection in the locomotive. Like maybe it stops when it hit the straight track.

[electrical whiz kid]

OK Ram;
This sounds like a pickup problem, and a bit of a tricky one.  My thought is that is could be in the trackwork.  The inside run is where this occurs.  Check your trackwork.  If ther are any kinks, crimps, etc in the track that would impede a smooth flow, then that may be the actor.  Clean this section of track really good, and then sight down it if you can for humps, bumps-the aforesaid.  If the engine runs smoothly and effortlessly on other track, then you probabaly have a rail problem.
Rich C.