Bachmann Pennsylvanian train set

[mackend]

Hi all,
My 1st forum ever, not sure if i'm doing this right, if anyone will ever see it, or how to get back here to see if anyone responds, but I'll give it the old college try.
Does anyone know how long the Bachmann Pennsylvanian train set is including all 4 pieces (engine, tender and 2 cars. We are brand new to all this. We have a 70 inch beam between 2 walls that we want to put a G gauge train between so length is important. Also, I understand there are rollers that allow a train to be stationary but the lights, sound etc. would still work. not sure where to place rollers (under which wheels), if the rollers would make the engine car higher than the tender and 2 back cars, how to make the power work etc. Not sure if this is the place to get all the help I need but thought i'd give it a shot. Thanks for any help,
Dale

[mackend]

In case anyone wanted to leave any help but didn't want to waste their time not knowing if I would find my way back, i figured it out so help won't be in vain.

[mackend]

OOps, its actually 90 inches so I think we will be ok with this train. I understand 4-6-0 means 4 small wheels at front, 2 per side, then 6 bigger wheels (3 per side) which i believe is where the electric power is? So basically 5 wheels per side on engine. Which wheels do I put rollers under if we were to number them on one side as 1 thru 5, one being the frontmost wheel? Trying to figure out how many roller sets i need to buy. is the pic you post considered "2 sets" OR is it a half set (I ask because I have seen a "set of 4 rollers" advertised, so maybe a set is 4 of those below? Sorry if I'm confusing.
thanks much, Dale

[Doneldon]

Mack-

You'll find that the rollers are pretty expensive, especially the ones with roller bearings. Although it will take a bit of effort,
building a cut-down section so you only use the rollers under the loco's drive wheels, as Hunt described, will save you
many dollars. I'll repeat the instructions for you if Hunt's post disappears before you see it.

                                                                                                                                          -- D

[mackend]

Thanks so much guys. I get the concept. My only other question at this point, until I have the train and rollers in hand is this. I am planning to just use 5 or 6 pieces of straight track (however much is needed for the train to sit on). I am not using the whole oval track so i am not sure if i will actually have a completed circuit or whatever its called to actually power the train. Is it possible to just have train sit on straight track with display built as you suggest and get power for lights, smoke and sound to work? Also, any idea if this Pennsylvanian train can just use batteries for all this as well? i think it said one 9V battery required but not sure what it would be for.
Thanks again
Dale

[Doneldon]

mack-

Your train will work just fine on a straight track with no connections on the end as long as one wire from your controller is connected to one rail and the other wire is connected to the other rail. Your loco will complete the circuit.

I suppose you could tie your train to a crosstie and let it run with its wheels spinning but that would lead to quite a bit of wear on the wheels and maybe even worn through spots on the top of the rails. I don't suggest this for anything beyond a very short demonstration.

The batteries in the Big Haulers ran lights and stuff; I assume the same for Bachmann's current large scale offerings. I do not think they would run your train for two reasons: First, the battery wouldn't have a connection to the loco's motor and, second, the voltage would be too low for anything betond a really anemic performance. You should have 12-14 volts for large scale, which you could get by connecting several batteries totaling that voltage, but that's not a good solution. You'd have no way to regulate train speed other than adding or removing batteries. That would drive you crazy in a hurry. If you connect your power pack and turn it up until your smoker works, your train will already be running, too. The only thing you can do is open the loco and disconnect a motor wire. Then your power pack should run everything else but leave your loco's wheels stationary.

Good luck!

                           -- D

[mackend]

Thanks D!
Sounds like you are saying I can disconnect one wire inside loco that makes wheels turn and there are other wires that will allow all the other stuff (lights, sound, smoke) to work, so I wouldn't even need rollers?  Am i understanding that right? Can I tell which wire it is by its color? Also, in the line sketch that Hunt did above where he talks of cutting the track and shows a portion lowered, Im a bit confused. Don't all 3 pieces of track in this scenario have to be connected? Are the 2 little vertical lines he shows representing wire so things are continuous? I have zero electrical knowledge and i truly appreciate your time with this,
Dale

[mackend]

Hi Hunt,
You sent something thru while i was posting something and now i can't access it. i really hope i didn't lose your post as it looked like you put a lot of effort into it for me. I don't know if it deleted automatically already or if I screwed up. Do you still have very easy access to it whereby you could repost? If not, I understand.
Thanks,
Dale

[mackend]

Thanks for all your help Hunt. how is the lower track of display connected to the upper tracks on each side of it? Do the 2 little up and down lines represent a small piece of track/ or wire or solder or some combo of these? i am cutting and pasting all your posts to a Word document so i can present it to someone up here in Connecticut when i find someone to help me. is this stuff a regular electrician would know how to do or should i try to find a model train group/club to get help from? i won't use the smoke thing, :-)

[Jerrys HO]

Dale

The section that is lowered in Hunt's diagram is the track that is cut so you can lower that section to compensate for the rider's. You will have to solder feeder wire's to both ends of lower track to upper track. Keep the wire's on the same rail side do not cross wire's. Hide the lower track and rider's with bushes or whatever scenery you are doing.

Another way instead of soldering is to use 3 sets of power terminals to the rails if they are sold separately.

Yes they do!
http://estore.bachmanntrains.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=193

Jerry

[mackend]

Thanks Hunt, Jerry,& Doneldon,
I love learning new stuff. When i woke up today, i wasn't sure this project was actually possible. Now i know it is and i look forward to moving forward with it. first step, order the train which will happen very soon.
Thanks again,
Dale

[mackend]

I'd like to ask your opinion about a website that has this train but i don't want to violate terms of conduct. Is it ok to mention another distributor of Bachmann trains. i know it says not to mention other manufacturers.

[Jerrys HO]

Dale

It's ok to mention distributor's just not competitor's.
Check pricing thru  The Favorite Spot, & Micro Mark. There are many other's also.
As Hunt stated shop around.

Jerry

[mabloodhound]

Dale,

If you go with the sunken rollers, there is no reason to add wire to the short piece of track at the front of the engine (there's nothing to power up there).   Just add power to each side of the rollers.   
And the track in back may not need power unless your coaches have lights in them.   But that would be simple jumpers to each side of the track.   The rollers do not have to be connected directly to the track.   You can just run a jumper from the same wire that goes to the rollers (like a split 'Y').   Just keep each side the same (do not cross them to the other side)
Wiring for trains is all DC (direct current) and very simple to do so don't be concerned.