Help and Review for laying roadbed, please!

[lanny]

Hi all,

I know this topic has been covered alot ... but frankly, since my roadbed and track was down i didn't pay much attention. Now I am all attention

I am planning on ripping out one area of my layout where there is a very steep grade. I am wondering if the material I think some use might work as good road bed ... I think its some sort of 'blue styrofoam' material.

I use Atlas code 100 NS flex track and would like a 'refresher' on adhering it to this material as well as some basic pointers on cutting, fitting and laying the material before the track is attached.

Thanks for any advice!

lanny nicolet

[SteamGene]

Can you "unsteep" the grade to any degree at all?  Start sooner, end later?  What about curves in the grade?  Can they be avoided?  Made more gentle? 
I'm being a bit unusual, I understand.  I'm using cork roadbed over homosote in visible sections and just homosote in concealed areas.  The exception is South River Yard, which will be homosote and sidings where track is laid on homosote without cork.
Gene

[lanny]

Gene,

Thanks. Basically that's what I am doing ... 'unsteeping the grade' ... I normally use homasote and cork roadbed, but wondered of the 'blue stuff' would be less time consuming and easier to fit into the area I am 'unsteeping' (aoubt 10 ft).

lanny nicolet

[WoundedBear]

Lanny....

I have tried both construction methods on my layout. I prefer the plywood/cork method to the foam. I find the foam very noisy and the plywood or homasote even, finds it's own transition easier than foam can.

I used plywood subroad bed and cookie cut it for the majority of the layout. I had one grade to make, to lay track up to the small Climax shop. The foam worked, but in hindsight, I would do it with plywood if I were to do it over.

Sid

[lanny]

Thanks for the helpful suggestions. Also, thanks to my friend who sent me a very helpful suggestion offline as well. I think I have the info needed to take at least one of my 'awful grades' out ... or as Gene says ... 'unsteep' one of my mainline grades. This will allow me to have one of the two mainlines fairly flat for when the 'long train' urge hits me 

lanny nicolet

[r.cprmier]

I can tell you about a material that would certainly do the trick-it is easy to work with, adaptable, and easy to find.  It is "Sign Board".
This material is used-as the name implies-primarily for making carved commercial-type three-dimensional signs.  It can be had in at least 3/4" thicknesses, and I know it can be found in 2" thickness.  Most any commercial sign shop will or should have access to it.  It is lightweight, and easily saws.  It is made of high-density polyurethane, gluable with a variety of adhesives, and comes in a neutral colour. 
My thought toward your end is that you could make a "transition" piece that would run your trackwork into a easy concave-like transition from a stright plane.  Radii could also be accomplished by "notching" it-that is-alternating the sides, making cuts into the vertical plane, thus enabling it to be curved.  The acoustical characteristics also lend itself to a deadening effect, eliminating having to use cork roadbed.  The sawdust is granular, and "dead"; that is, it doesn't fly all over creation as would "Homasote"@.

In Connecticut, and Massachusetts, "Garston Sign" has it in stock.

Rich

[lanny]

Rich,

That sounds like a good option. Any idea of price?

thanks!

lanny nicolet

[r.cprmier]

Lanny;
The stuff isn't exactly cheap; but what I did to get around that was to try to scrounge cut-offs from shops and samples like about 9X9 from suppliers.  In my case, I have another "in", which is that I do a fair amount of work for one sign company.
The material is fairly well-distributed, so you should be able to scare up some in your area without to much hassle.  Try Sign-Art products at
www signfoam.com.  The sample I am holding is from RPU 3000-15.

RIch

[r.cprmier]

As an addendum...
I have been using this as scenery aids, also.  It was the first consideration I had for its use.  It is highly carveable, it cuts like a dream; and, being a processed material, there is no grain to contend with, as in wood.
I have made some really nice portals; using a Bridgeport, I had "carved" out any recesses in a concrete structure, and it comes out really neat and clean.  Great masonry reproduction.

Rich

[lanny]

Rich,

Thanks for the web site. I checked my area for a 'distributor' of that sign board material and there are none. I probably will call some sign shops, though i don't have the 'in' you do 

What about 'foam core' board which is used in matting and framing? Styrofoam sandwiched between heavy paper surfaces. It cuts very easily, is very sturdy and could be 'primed' with acrylic base paint to make it totally waterproof.

What are your thoughts on this material, Rich (or anyone).

lanny nicolet

[r.cprmier]

Lanny;
My next suggestion would be to go to "woodland Scenics" website, and they have a foam system that you can also use.  All in all, the foam board might have been cheaper, but if it isn't there, it isn't.
Sign board also either makes or distributes "gatorfoam," which is the same thing you suggest, but this stuff really kicks butt for resiliency and ease to work.  I will use this stuff for any big wall system I am making out of Strathmore, or any other non-self-supportive material.  I don't see that it would remedy this situation, though, because you do need a concave taper transition, which would leave you with only the styrofoam core to support your track.  I don't like that.

If push comes to shove, you can use styrofoam board, but I HATE using that stuff with a passion!!!  TO me, it's use is only for scenicking. 
If you have acces to a good band saw, take a piece of clear pine and make the transition piece out of that; and, as with the signboard, just make vertical bending grooves for any curves you may need.

Rich   

[lanny]

Thanks very much, Rich. Very helpful ... all of the suggestions I've received publicly and privately. thanks!

lanny nicolet