EZ track power connections for DCC

[rbryce1]

I'm sorry, I read too much and sometimes it confuses me more than helping me.  But, everything I have read regarding DCC control and track says to provide power to every track section or at least every 3 feet of track.  Also, they all seem to say you need to solder all of your track connections together.  I do have a small pencil tip type soldering tool, but if I heat the rail and connector hot enough to solder them together, I'm sort of afraid of melting the plastic ties/roadbed.

I am using Nickel-Silver track sections.  Do they really need to be soldered, and how often do I really need to have a power connection?  What about using Dielectric grease at each rail coupler connection instead of soldering. 

[ripvanwnkl]

Hi rbrycel,

Some notes of reassurance: 

My grandson and I have constructed many temporary, extensive, and complex floor HO EZ nickel-silver track layouts for over 8 years with both EZ Command and MRC Prodigy Advance Squared DCC controls.  These layouts have covered as many as 5 rooms and connecting hallways over carpet, tile, and multi-level elevated Woodland Scenics roadbed with not a single soldering connection or extra power connections.

We use both sound and non-sound DCC single and consisted locomotives as well as some lighted passenger cars.  Some of my grandson's freight trains are over 50 cars long with up to 5 consisted locos.   All we've noticed is a little but acceptable power drop at the farthest reaches of the layouts from the power source, approximately 45 feet.  When track joiners get loose from disconnecting and reconnecting many times, we replace them for better connections.  That seems to do the trick.    We use Atlas joiners which work fine and are cheap.   

On the other hand, if you're planning a permanent and extensive tabletop layout with "bulletproof" track and power, then you should probably follow the more rigorous standards you've read about.  Personally, I would experiment with temporary layouts first and see what meets your standards of operation and, don't forget, fun!  That's the beauty of EZ track. 

Good luck! 

[ripvanwnkl]

P.S.  Before the end of each temporary layout deconstruction and storage, we clean all the track and turnouts used and all the wheels of locomotives and cars.  That's important for good DCC connectivity. 

[rbryce1]

Thank you ripvanwnkl,

Sigh of relief, at least for now.

Really did not want to start off by soldering all those connections together.

Our layout is not near that large, about 3 tracks on about 2 sheets of plywood area total.  It will be (at least for now) taken apart after the Christmas holidays.  Think I will follow your lead as well as using the dielectric grease at the joints.  On my boat, it really seems to help electrical conductivity on the plugs of my electronics.

[railtwister]

rbryce1,

Be careful using grease on your rail joints. While it is true that there are special conductive greases available for this purpose (I think LGB sells some), most greases are non-conductive, and the definition of "dialectric grease" is that it is an insulator and is intended for use on things like the rubber boots on spark plug wires to seal them from moisture and prevent electrical leaks. It is not for metal-to-metal contact surfaces. Try Googling "dialectric grease" before you use it.

di·e·lec·tric/ˌdīəˈlektrik/

Adjective:   
  Having the property of transmitting electric force without conduction; insulating.
Noun:   
  A medium or substance with such a property; an insulator.
Synonyms:   
  non-conductor

Good luck,
Bill in FL

[Len]

Aristo-Craft also makes a conductive grease. But it, and the LGB version, are mainly aimed at Large Scale operators with outside layouts, where it helps retard corrosion of the brass track. For an indoor layout with NS rails it's not really necessary.

As for soldering joints and power feeders, I normally see the "feeder on every section of track" used when referring to 3ft sections of flex track. Personally, on a permanent layout, I run feeders every 6 - 10ft on long blocks. Otherwise the block feeders are generally close enough together.

Even with DCC I used blocks, with both rails gapped, for a couple of reasons. First, it makes it easier to hunt down electrical problems if they crop up. It also lets locos and lit cars get parked on track that's not 'hot' when I won't be using them for a while.

If you do decide to eventually solder your joints, DON'T use a small pencil iron. It will take so long to heat the rail the plastic will melt. Do use a fair size iron, with enough mass to carry the heat and transfer it to the rail so you can get on and off quickly. I prefer a 45 watt Unger (now part of Weller) glass caning iron. It gets plenty hot, and it's a lot more maneuverable than a soldering gun.

Len

[Doneldon]

rb-

I'll second Len's advice, above. However, I can tell you that many MRs use microscopic quantities of Wahl clipper oil on their rails to keep the oxidation down. Those who do report excellent results. I haven't done this yet myself, but I plan to try it the next time I clean my track.

Using conductive grease in rail joiners is something with which I am familiar. It seems to me to be an excellent idea, especially if you are attaching your feeders to the rail joiners. It maintains the conductivity into the rail from the joiner and also helps transfer power from one track section to the next. I make it a habit to have no part of my track more than two joints from a feeder. This can mean as much as 18 feet on a long mainline section of 3' flex track, or maybe just a few feet in a yard ladder or terminal.
                                                                                                                                                        -- D
                     

[Len]

This is the soldering iron I prefer for track work: http://www.hmcelectronics.com/product/Weller/7760  They are available from other sources as well, I just used this one because the picture was clearer.

The handle uses interchangable heating elements and tips. I prefer the 45 watt element with the built in tip show all the way to the right below the handle. Keep the tip clean and tinned and it'll last a long time.

Len

[rbryce1]

Well, I have both tracks running 4 DCC engines (1 Rivarossi 4-6-4 Hudson conversion to DCC and 3 Bachmann diesels) from the Dynamis 2.5 amp controller.  One power connection to each track, no solder joints and plenty of track, one up and down tressel with about a 4.5 degree slope (the diesels) and all is going great.  I temporarily put a DC controller on the main track where the diesels were and I can run a Rivarossi DC 2-10-2 engine, but it slows down on the outer edges, again, only 1 track terminal.  Not going to be running the 2-10-2 as the tracks are only 18" & 22" and it is sort of tight for it.  Runs, but doesn't seem to like it.  I am using the DC controller on the 3rd track to run a very small DC trolley car.

However, on the 2 main lines in DCC mode with the other 4 engines, all is great.

[ripvanwnkl]

Thanks for the update, rbryce1.  Sounds like you're having fun!