bachmann d&rgw coach

[Chuck N]

If you follow Stan's directions you shouldn't have any problems with bubbles behind the decal.  The film is thin, so after coating the decal, either clear coat of dull coat, it is very  hard to see.

Del's vinyl lettering is very much like a dry transfer.

There was a company that made dry transfers for many years, but I don't think that they are still in business.

Chuck

[Kevin Strong]

Check with Ozark Miniatures. They recently bought the CDS and Larry Larsen artwork and are advertising the CDS stuff as being available. I don't know whether they're dry transfers or decals, as the web site is vague. The sub-heading says "dry transfer," while each individual category says "decal." I've sent them an e-mail asking for clarification.

I'm not a big fan of decals, either, but here's a few tricks I've come up with... Apply them per the directions, and expect to get tiny air bubbles underneath. I've rarely been able to do so without (hence why I hate decals). Once dry, take the tip of a sharp x-acto knife and poke holes at each air bubble. Then take some Future floor wax (which is just clear acrylics) and brush that over the surface of the decal. It will soak through the holes you just poked, bind itself to the paint and backside of the decal, and when dry, give you a good finish. It also coats the front of the decal with a protective clear coat so it won't come wear off through handling. Don't worry about brush strokes--the acrylic is designed to lay down evenly and does a VERY good job in that department. Once the arylic is dry (24 hours) you can overspray with dull-coat or however you want to finish the car.

Later,

K

[bob kaplan]

When using decals on surfaces of the AMS tank and box cars, is it necessary to prep the surface by making it smoother before application of the decal?....i hope that made sense!

[Chuck N]

My suggestion is to go to Stan's web site and look at the section on "Application Instructions".   Wetting the area where you are applying the decal first makes all the difference.  That film of water under the decal makes sliding it into the correct position very easy and forgiving.  When I have it in place I then hold one end down with my finger or a needle and then gently brush the top.  This gets rid of any bubbles.

With dry transfers, you have to be in the correct position the first time, no minor adjustments are possible.

They all have their pluses and minuses. 

Bob:

I have applied Stan's decals to plastic car surfaces; painted and unpainted, without any additional prep.  If you are putting them on a wooden kit, I would used a clear coat with a glossy finish before applying the decals.  I usually spray the car with a rusty red or gray primer followed by glossy clear coat.  If I want a color that is not one of the primer colors, I'll use a glossy version and then spray it with a dull coat when I'm finished applying decals.

[Sleeping Bear]

   I have been working with water slides for years now and air bubbles mean(to me) you should adjust  your application technique a little...suggest more water on target area of car .....slowly patting dry ....and a jar of setting solution for the problem areas.....air brush for over coat is best but not required .....clear coat can be had at most stores in a spray can....Krylon has a good one.....Later All...S.B.