Track 'type'

[Sasha]

I plan on purchasing all-new track for my layout when I finally start to build.  I have my old flex track from before and I think it's type 100.  Silver-colored rails with black ties.  I read that type 80 has brown ties and perhaps rails that are lower-profile to look more realistic.  Being new to all the finer details, what would one suggest to build with?  Is type 70 even more realistic?  There's so much more to model railroading than I imagined (and I imagine ALL the time!). 

[blwfish]

Code 100, which is 0.100" from base to railhead, is what your old flex track probably was.  It's the approximate equivalent of 152 lb rail (that's what a yard of it weighs in the prototype), which is very heavy indeed. I'm not sure what the Class I's are using today, but 152 lbs in the 1960s was what the very heaviest of the heavy main lines used - PRR over Horseshoe Curve and nearly nothing else. I don't think that any 150lb rail is being laid down today.  Running, for example, a Shay on Code 100 tends to look a little out of place, since most Shays spent their lives on spindly, lightly constructed almost temporary track, probably 75lb rail.

Code 83 (0.083") is what I think most scale modelers use today to represent Class I main lines, similar to the 125-140 lb rail used in the late steam era (at least) by the roads that ran giant locomotives and heavy trains, such as UP, C&O, VGN, N&W. If I had to guess, I'd say that modern welded rail is this size.

Code 70 rail is similar to what AAR calls "medium" rail, generally 100-125lb. It is used in lesser applications such as branch lines, or perhaps the main lines of less affluent or less traveled of the Class I's in the 20th century, or the big Class I's earlier in the century. This would be appropriate for a 1915 version of, say, the NYC or PRR, or for the 1940s versions of, say, the Rock Island branches into the agricultural midwest. I think modern subways are constructed with medium rail today.

Finally, Code 55 is really pretty tiny, and represents light-duty track for branchlines and lightly constructed industrial sidings, etc. Mining or timber branchlines (remember those Shays?) or even a modern siding that only has to accommodate a couple of boxcars at a time would be built with this light rail. You would never see a DDA40x or a Big Boy on such track - the behemoths would likely turn the rail over (literally).

Of course, all of these are relative to HO scale. As you might guess, Code 70 is pretty big rail for N scale, and I presume that the Z scale folks must use something like Code 55 for their heavy main lines.

The color of the ties is a completely separate matter. Black used to be used, but most flex track today seems to be brown - which seems appropriate, since the heavy wooden crossties used tend to be a browner color than black. On the other hand, some of the railroads are now starting to use concrete ties, and as you would guess they are not colored either black or brown. I've seen some new flex track that represents the concrete ties, too. Offhand I cannot remember anyone making brass rail, which is what was common 30 years ago. Everything I can remember in modern production is nickel silver, although sometimes it comes weathered or blackened so it may not always appear to be silver.

[jonathan]

Sasha,

I believe most scale modelers today would agree that code 83 rail is a good approximation for mainline railroads.  However...

If you have some older equipment with large flanged wheels, like Rivarossi, some Varney, etc... you will need code 100 rail to able to have them track well.  The larger flanged wheels tend to bottom out on code 83. 

I only mention this as one who enjoys running older equipment from time to time.  Hence one of my loops is laid with code 100 track.

Just something to ponder.

Regards,

Jonathan

[jward]

if you have code 100 track, use it. keep in mind that ez track is also code 100.

[Doneldon]

Sasha-

Code 100 actually represents the heaviest track used today, in the 135-140 pound range. Code 83 looks better unless you are modeling the biggest, busiest mainlines today. You can still use your Code 100, however. It's great for inside of tunnels, hidden track and staging. There is no operational giveaway with Code 100 so save yourself what it would cost to replace and save your money for better looking track where it can be seen.

                                                                                                         -- D

[Sasha]

I guess I'll most likely use 100 then.  Here's a question: has anyone ever just spray painted their track, then taken a straight edge paint scraper to expose the top surface?  Maybe that's a no-no, but I have no idea.

Thank for all the replies!  I love this site!

[Doneldon]

Sashe-

Still here after all of these hours!

Yes, lots of us spray paint our track, usually some version of a dark, rusty brown. No, not many of us scrape the paint off with a straight edge or razor blade. However, a wooden block works for some. Others use a course cloth after the paint dries but before it fully cures. Still others use a fine plastic abrasive pad like the 3M ones sold for cleaning pots and pans. They'll remove the paint without leaving tiny scratches in the rails. Don't forget the medial (inside) edges of the railheads.

                                                                                                  -- D