Getting set to build a layout.

[Sasha]

The first thing I did was check the motor directly.  If I applied power, then manually turned the flywheel, it would vibrate a little and make a humming sound, but that was it. I tried a lot of different positions on the throttle as well.

Still waiting to hear from the seller about the return...

[Sasha]

I took a picture of my newest DDA40X along with my original model and the Veranda Turbine... then I wisked them away to a flowery valley via Photoshop (my skills are dubious at best).  I hope it's alright to post pictures for no other reason than to show the trains to interested parties.  If it's alright, I will post the picture "inline" instead of just a link.

http://s92251487.onlinehome.us/images/upthree.jpg

[jward]

i am not a fan of kato.

did you try turnijng the motor by hand to see if there is a bind somewhere in the drive train? the motor should turn freely by hand, and all wheels should move when you turn the motor.

[Sasha]

Yes, I manually turned the flywheel, over and over.  The gears and wheels turned freely when I turned the flywheel.  I tried to get it to run for about 30 minutes before boxing it back up.

[bapguy]

Sasha, since you are doing DC controll, how are you going to controll all the trains? You will need a power pack for each track. With DC if you  power all the tracks with one power pack, all trains will travel in same direction at the same speed. Joe.

[Sasha]

I have seven transformers, five will be used. I can't wait to get it started.  I think I'll join two 4'x8' pieces of 3/4" MDF.

[bapguy]

Remember: it's your railroad. What you consider great others might find boring. It's all about having fun.  Post photos as you get going.  Joe.

[Sasha]

Indeed... it will be an all-Union Pacific setup, with the biggest plastic HO U.P. models I can find.   

[Ken G Price]

Sasha, I liked the photo of the three UP engines. It shows lots of big diesel power.

[Sasha]

Sasha, I liked the photo of the three UP engines. It shows lots of big diesel power.

... And a little Gas Turbine power!

I got my Athearn DD35 today.  Run great, looks great, but it's really loud.  Pulls almost as hard as my #6900 Spectrum DDA40X.  

I did a little wiring to fortify the electrical paths between the pickups and the motors/lights.  Worked out well.

The roster is almost complete!  

EDIT/UPDATE:  I applied a little gear grease to both gear towers and the DD35 is a bit quieter now.   

[Doneldon]

I got my Athearn DD35 today.  Run great, looks great, but it's really loud.EDIT/UPDATE:  I applied a little gear grease to both gear towers and the DD35 is a bit quieter now.  

Sasha-

Somebody will probably scream at me for writing this but consider putting a little plastic-safe caulk on the inside of plastic locomotive shells to inhibit the soundboard effect of the thin, flat parts of the shell resonnating with the motor/gear noise. I've found it can make quite a difference. Of course, whether you can do this with a particular model depends on whether there is a place on the inside walls where you can add the caulk without clearance problems. I would assume that would not be an insurmountable issue on a larger loco like a DD35.

                                                                                                                    -- D

[Sasha]

Are you talking about a simple clear silicone sealant?

[Doneldon]

Sasha-

Clear, white, sky blue pink, it doesn't matter since it will be on the inside where it won't show. Just a good substantial smear of any color will suppress vibration and resonent noise.
                                                                                                                              -- D

[Sasha]

Here's a question:

When you guys go to fasten down flex track, do you hammer the nails in hard enough to pin the plastic ties to the board or just enough to hold the track somewhat in place?

Thanks!

[rogertra]

Here's a question:

When you guys go to fasten down flex track, do you hammer the nails in hard enough to pin the plastic ties to the board or just enough to hold the track somewhat in place?

Thanks!

I first build my benchwork from 3/4" "workshop" Cabinet Plywood cut into 4" deep lengths.

I then lay the same 3/4" plywood where the tracks will run.

I then cover that with 1/2" Homasote, that's real brand name "Homasote" not some brownish fibre board that the Big Box store clerk tells you "It's the same as Homasote!"  It ain't, so don't buy it.

I then draw my track centre lines.

When it comes time to lay my track, code 83 Atlas "Super Track(?) No. 6 switches and flex track I lay a bead of white glue, yes that's "white glue", down the centre line of the track and spread it with my fingers and then lay the track in place and hold it down with push pins.

The white glue holds the track well enough for testing the track plan and it is easy to lift the track without damaging the track or the Homasote underneath.  I've done this a couple of times already.

Once I'm happy with the track, I will ballast the track using a 4x1 ratio of water and white glue to hold the ballast and track firmly in place.

Even then, if you soak the track and ballast with water, it will turn the glue and ballast into a "gloopy" mess and you will still be able to modify the track plan.

See here for my progress over the past several weeks using the above method, other than ballasting, I'm not at that stage yet: -

http://s94.photobucket.com/albums/l99/rogertra/The%20new%20Great%20Eastern%20Railway/