Bachmann K4 with Soundtraxx TSU 1000

[Cooped]

[/url]
DSCF5159 by cooped3, on Flickr[/img]

[Cooped]

I did flickr as that's what my dad uses. Pictures aren't showing up, but the links to them work.

[richg]

[/url]
DSCF5159 by cooped3, on Flickr[/img]

There should be an option to have the photo show up here without anyone having to click on a link and I believe that option shows a larger photo, at least it does for most who use the Photo Bucket account.
No idea about Flicker though. Still looks pretty good.

Rich

[Cooped]

[/url]

[Cooped]

Ahaa, seems the box on flickr with the code to paste has numerous codes and for some reason I can't just select one. I did the below by pasting all of them then deleting three. Is that what you did Hunt? The large picture is a little blurred compared to the original.

[Rod in PA]

Hi Dan, welcome back.

After my last reply, I decided to shorten the nest of wires in the bottom of the tender.  I removed one at a time, cut about 1 1/2" off each and soldered back.  That went so well that I decided to keep on going.

I removed the front weight and filed about 1/16" off the top left side; that allowed enough room for the decoder to fit between  the coal load and the screw post.  I then soldered an eight pin connector (#801123) to the decoder after shortening the wires by half, and plugged the connector into the light board.

Next, I  installed a 1" speaker (#810054) in the molded area on the floor of the tender. I used a baffle kit (#810110) and speaker gasket (#810119).  The baffle kit comes in several pieces to allow for various heights.  With the limited space, I could only use 1/2 of the recommended height of the baffle, which had me concerned about how this might affect the sound.  Not to worry, the volume and sound quality are still great.  I placed a gasket in the recessed area for the speaker, placed the speaker on top of the gasket, placed one section of the baffle over the speaker using clear RTV to hold it in place, and finally installed the top of baffle again using RTV.  Before doing all this, the speaker needs to be soldered to the decoder.

After letting the RTV set up over night, it was time to close up the tender.  It went together okay, just had to be careful not to pinch any wires between the screw posts.  After connecting the locomotive and tender, it was off to the layout.  I fired up the NCE Power Cab and what an awesome supprise: it worked!  I had to adjust many of the default volume CVs because they were to loud.  Overall, I'm extremely pleased with the product and continue to learn new things about this decoder everytime I look at the manual.  If you have any further questions don't hesitate to ask.

Have a good day,
Rod

[bapguy]

Is there a way to run this loco onDC? It might be some thing as simple as the mechanism binding up. If possible, run the loco in one direction increasing the speed every 10 minutes. Do this for about 1 hour. Run the loco in reverse with the same procedure. Might help. This is a good idea any way to loosen up the lcoc.  Joe.

[richg]

An aside...
Cooped
To insert image in a message, place link to image inside BBC image tags. Do not use BBC url tags.

Code Select Expand


[img]http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7123/7114334097_aec3f20d1d_s.jpg[/img]

Displays

Code Select Expand


[img width=215 height=215] http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7123/7114334097_aec3f20d1d_s.jpg[/img]

Displays a re-sized image

Resizing a jpg image using width and height attributes with the BBC image tags will blur some jpg images.

Get a Photo Bucket account and compare to the account you are using now.

Rich