Show us your layout

[jward]

I have never felt the need to anchor any of my layouts to the wall. build a good foundation and you don't have a lot of those problems.

for benchwork, I use 1x4. jonathan's use of 1x3 is still acceptable it a bit less strong. legs are the key. I build mine out of a 1x4 and a 1x3 screwed together in an l shape, then fastened into a corner of the benchwork. you can either use toe outside corner, or one where a joist intersects the main frame. minimal cross bracing will eliminate most of the wobble.

the legs and bracing are something you can add to the existing layout. legs can be fastened to the table frame in a different location from the originals, then the originals removed. if you are using sectional benchwork it is better to have the legs inset from the ends. fasten them to both the frame and the joist with carriage bolts and washers.

the l shape of these legs adds to the stability of the table, much more than using solid legs.

[WoundedBear]

A picture is worth a thousand words they say..........

This is the early stages of my benchwork. 1X4 with 1X2 for the L-girders.......2X2 legs......1X4 and 1X3 for joists.......brace as needed with either pieces of plywood or 1X2s.





Here's a later shot......the whole thing is only anchored to the walls in 3 places with a total of 6 screws. Other than those, she's a free standing layout.

Sid

[Jerrys HO]

Sid
I have allway's admired your benchwork. It is first class.
I used 2x4's all the way as I am not the skinniest guy on the block and want to make sure I don't break a leg (on the table that is).

Jerry

[rogertra]

A picture is worth a thousand words they say..........

This is the early stages of my benchwork. 1X4 with 1X2 for the L-girders.......2X2 legs......1X4 and 1X3 for joists.......brace as needed with either pieces of plywood or 1X2s.

Here's a later shot......the whole thing is only anchored to the walls in 3 places with a total of 6 screws. Other than those, she's a free standing layout.

Sid

Sid.

Perfect benchwork.  Light yet sturdy.  No need for anything larger than 1 x 4.  2 x 4 or larger is just a waste of money and is over build as we are only supporting scenery, track and models.  No weight at all.  With the benchwork you have, you it will easily support your weight.

[WoundedBear]

Thanks for the compliments guys. Jerry...believe me....I am no carpenter, yet I found doing this type of benchwork to be very easy and economical.

Roger......I can't remember where I saw the structural loads that an L-girder like mine can take, but it's waaaaaaaay more than one would think. I agree that 2X4s would have been overkill in my situation.

You should damn near be able to park a Smart Car up there with no sag

Sid

[Jerrys HO]

Roger

Most of my tables are leftover from my O layout ( just the L portion ). Having a neighbor who does construction helps for scrap pieces and an occasional uncut piece.
The 2x4's if bought were a heck of a lot cheaper than the foam board.

Sid

I always admired the type of bench work on your layout but somehow got talked into the table top and foam board way.
I would have to say you could definitely park a Smart car up there, maybe even a semi-truck.
I tend to overdo things a bit.

Jerry

[GG1onFordsDTandI]

My 2 cents on the great hammer drill debate of 2013-
If its a normal thin wall cinderblock and under 1/2, I don't always run for the hammer drill or even bits (I sharpen mine myself and have lots)... unless the holes accuracy is important. Larger or fussy holes or concrete Im digging under the drill press for the hammer drill too.

[Doneldon]

I think it is funny    that after all of Doc's talk (and now Traviss') of it being "ok" to use a regular drill to drill masonry, he states he breaks out his B & D hammer drill when he wants to put holes in masonry

jb-

Not so funny, really. A regular drill will work just fine; a hammer drill works faster. Both holes are equally round and I can make them equally deep. Other than time, the hammer drill has nothing to offer compared to the regular drill. Since most folks will have little or no use for a hammer drill, it's good for them to know they don't have to run out and buy or rent a hammer drill to make a couple of holes in concrete or a brick. That would be a big waste of money.

So ... I stand by my earlier statement.

                                                                -- D

[rogertra]

I think it is funny    that after all of Doc's talk (and now Traviss') of it being "ok" to use a regular drill to drill masonry, he states he breaks out his B & D hammer drill when he wants to put holes in masonry

jb-

Not so funny, really. A regular drill will work just fine; a hammer drill works faster. Both holes are equally round and I can make them equally deep. Other than time, the hammer drill has nothing to offer compared to the regular drill. Since most folks will have little or no use for a hammer drill, it's good for them to know they don't have to run out and buy or rent a hammer drill to make a couple of holes in concrete or a brick. That would be a big waste of money.

So ... I stand by my earlier statement.                                                            -- D

Same here, 100% support for Donald's statement.

[Jerrys HO]

Let's see if I can't stir the pot.
Did anyone think of using glue? There is several types out there to do just this.
I agree with jonathan, as I would be hesitant to drill into cinder block also. If it should crack then we would have another problem on our hands.
Just a thought and would be easy (somewhat) to remove the glue if needed.
OK let the remarks fly!

Jerry

[Jerrys HO]

Has anybody seen the glue? I think it would make your table a little more sturdier.

Jerry

[rogertra]

Has anybody seen the glue? I think it would make your table a little more sturdier.

Jerry

Gluing to a wall will work but it's difficult to make changes.

[Doneldon]

Let's see if I can't stir the pot.
Did anyone think of using glue?

Jerry-

Yes! Check my post on July 26.

"You could fix your mounting boards to the walls with construction adhesive but they would pretty much be there forever."

                                                                                                                                                             -- D
             

[Jerrys HO]

D

Let's see if I can't stir the pot.
Did anyone think of using glue?

Jerry-

Yes! Check my post on July 26.

"You could fix your mounting boards to the walls with construction adhesive but they would pretty much be there forever."

                                                                                                                                                              -- D
             

and so you did. sorry about that, I must have missed or forgot it. heck I have trouble remembering what I did yesterday much less what happened two days ago.
your drills made an issue though. I think someone cares about them.

Jerry

[Doneldon]

As one of the principals in this little tempest, may I suggest that we knock it off and get back to the business of model railroading?

I apologize if my comments about drilling sounded hypocritical to others or somehow offended them -- it certainly wasn't intended nor am I -- and I'll not go further with this myself. All-in-all, I believe we gave the OP some good information with which to decide what he wants to do about putting his railroad on a wall or not.

In a way, I'm glad for the controversy because it demonstrates that there are generally more than one way to skin a cat, even if some alternatives are better than others. Different people have different interests, resources, skills spaces and inclinations. I think this board and its various contributors can all tolerate that.

                                                                                                                                                 -- D