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Flex Track for a Newbie?

Started by NewConductor, March 17, 2012, 02:01:25 AM

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NewConductor

Wondering if you would suggest flex track use for a newbie to build his first layout?
It looks to me like there would be way more "flexibility" and way less limitations involved using this track system.

blwfish

Definitely, unless you're doing one of the shake-the-box type of layout that has a full parts list etc.

For one thing, there are many fewer joints, each of which is a potential trouble spot for either mechanical operation or electrical continuity. You do have to learn a little about how to cut it, and there is a little more work in getting it laid out, but it's easily worth it. And that's even if you're doing a very small layout.  If you're past a 4x8 I think it's pretty much a nobrainer.  A lot cheaper, too.

electrical whiz kid

Flex-track is the best thing to come along since spaghetti (no connection-pardon the pun).  As earlier mentioned, it can be laid pretty much the way you want it to run without considering the limitations normally imposed by ridgid sectional track.

For my money, if I were starting over, I would go with code 83 or even 70.  I kick myself for NOT going with 70, but that was my choice.  Flex track-particularly the really flexible track, is very user-friendly.   For cutting,  I suggest using either a good exacto saw, or better yet, a moto-tool such as Dremel, to accomplish this task.  Read the instructions, and do wear safety glasses!

In terms of laying the track; curves and transitions can be accomplished that will suit your desires , and securing it to a roadbed is quick and smooth.  Use common sense both when planning and installing it, and it will be relatively trouble free.
Rich

jward

one drawback to using flexible track is the tendency of rail joints to kink on curves unless laid properly. these kinks can cause derailments. another is that, due to the flexibility of the track, it is possible to make curves which contain areas curved much sharper than you intended. if you are having derailment problems with sectional track, as one of your other posts suggest, using flex track may be a bad choice for you at this point. learn how to lay sectional track properly and know what problems to look for before you move on to flex.

that said, with the proper care and tools, flex is second only to handlaid track in the possibilities it opens.

for laying flex track, i would recommend laying out curves with the metal guages by ribbonrail. these are available in various radii, and slide between the rails of your curve. using them will ensure that when you lay a curve of say 33" radius, the curve is actually 22r and will eliminate kinks and flat spots in your curves. also, for cutting rail, which you will do alot of when laying flex, there are no better tools than a set of rail nippers. these pliers make a much quicker and cleaner cut than a razor saw, and have better control tha a motor tool. last, however you cut your rail, file the ends of every rail. cutting metal rail can leace burrs which are a source of derailments.

Jeffery S Ward Sr
Pittsburgh, PA

NewConductor

well after all i've read, flex track seems like it would be a challenge but the benifits seem worth the extra work. i will however work some more with my sectional track for a while to get the hang of doing that properly before i move on. i right now only have enough sectional to build a 56" x 36" oval. I will be going the flex track route to build my first big layout however.

Rich/Whiz Kid: why do you say you wish you went directly to 70 as opposed to 83 code, and what is the benefit of 70 code?

and best surface for laying flex track, plywood, styrofoam or felt covered plywood?

i saw a site where a guy used layers of styrofoam and a heat gun to create some great landscaping just by melting stuff away. looks really neat!

Woody Elmore

Code 70 rail represents 100 pound rail used by the real thing. The rail used by Bachmann is code 100 and is more or less a standard size. It is really oversized to model most railroads. However I don't think most people care. You can paint the sides of code 100 rail and that helps visually. Code 70 is more exacting because of its smaller size.

If I were to start over in HO I would use code 83 as a compromise and do my sidings in code 70.

A friend did his layout in code 70 - everything hand laid and he went so far as to make the sidings out of code 55 rail - very small. He soldered the rail to ties made from circuit board (the ties had to have the metal cut to prevent a short) but that wasn't a big problem.

My suggestion would get a few pieces of flex track and see how you like working with it.

Doneldon

NewCon-

Quality flex-track carefully laid is a thing of beauty and reliability.

                                                                                        -- D

ebtnut

One thing to keep in mind - be careful about "hidden" kinks.  These are places where the curve winds up being tighter than your minimum radius.  You can get fixtures that drop between the rails to maintain a constant curve (I believe Micro-mark has them).  Or you can draw some curve templates on cardboard or hardboard using a beam compass and cut them out to draw the curves on the subroadbed to make sure your radii are constant.