update anold car?

[goddlesss]

I have an old old Tycho flat car that is the only piece left
of my
> first train set. I would like to replace the trucks and couplers
so
> that it will work well with my new bachmann dcc train. as I pour
over
> all the new choices you offer I am simply overwhelmed with top
shank
> med, length etc. what do I need to update this old car?

[Jerrys HO]

This is a thread done a while back by a very good modeler. I suggest printing the page for future reference.
Most older stock is pricey to upgrade versus buying a new one that is up to date but I can understand the sentimental reason.

Hope this helps

Jerry

[Tom M.]

I recently did this exact conversion for a friend.  First thing I did was remove the Tyco trucks with their truck mounted "talgo" couplers.  This leaves a gapping hole in the frame bolster.  I filled this hole with the appropriate diameter styrene rode and glued it into place.  I cut the rod off flush with the existing bolster.  Next, after the glue had dried, I drilled a #50 hole in the center of the rod.  I then tapped it using a #2/56 tap.   I used a #2/56 screw to mount a pair of Proto2000 70 ton freight trucks.

To add couplers, I installed Kadee #148 whisker spring couplers in the provided Kadee coupler box to the car's underframe.  To mount the coupler/box to the frame, I simply positioned the box on the car's underframe and marked the center hole location of the coupler box.  I then drilled a #50 hole into the underframe and threaded it with a tap.  Once installed, the coupler height was at perfect height when checked with a Kadee height gauge.

The replacement trucks, couplers, and mounting screws cost approximately $10. But, that is a small price to pay because the sentimental value to the person is priceless.

Good luck,

Tom

[Doneldon]

gl-

In addition to following the good advice offered by Tom M, you'll want to make sure that your old Tyco flat is properly weighted. Assuming it's a 40' car, it should weigh 3.5 ounces. A plastic flat car will weigh much less than that while one of the really old Tyco cast metal cars may be just right. I'll assume, however, that your car is plastic as there aren't many of Tyco's really old equipment around anymore.

Flat cars can be tough to bring up to weight because there isn't anywhere to effectively hide it. One possibility is a thin sheet of lead scribed to look like the wooden deck of the car. Another is adding lead or steel pieces underneath, concealed by the frame. Each of those can be a little tricky because an added deck may look too thick and there may not be much space to hide weight underneath. In that case, the only remaining solution is to add weight by adding a load.

Your load can be almost anything as long as either the load itself has weight or it can conceal weight. A hollow stack of lumber can conceal as much weight as you could ever want. Metal loads like die-cast tractors or machinery often provide the weight on their own. Hollow "crates" are great. An oddly-shaped piece of anything (like a blister from some packaging or some old junk from your parts box or odd household hardware box) can be covered with a tissue and painted to resemble a tarp, with added weight concealed underneath. One thing to avoid is the ready-made flat car loads. They are plastic and weigh very little, while offering no place to conceal weight.

Good luck! It's always neat to keep a bit of nostalgia running on our pikes. I salute you.
                                                                                                                                   -- D

[goddlesss]

I am getting a lot of great information in a short amount of time. this is great.  My main concern is choosing the right bachmann ez mate couplers.  I haven't even tried to figure out the trucks yet.  how can I figure out which version of the easy mate coupler to buy rather than buying a pair of each to see which one matches height  and or any thing else that will effect the performance.  should I take care of the trucks first, or both the trucks and couplers together?
     the Tyco flat car was made around late 70's to mid 80's time frame, it is plastic and it seems to be slightly weighted.  The load for it is two "pup" or "piggy back" type trailers.
    Thank all of you for sharing your knowledge with this old ammeter!

[Tom M.]

You have to take care of the trucks first.  Once they are mounted, then and only then, will you know how high the underfame sets from the rails.  At that point, you can determine if you need to use any overset or underset couplers.  Again, my experience has been once you mount the coupler box to the Tyco underframe, a normal shank height and length coupler is all you need.  IMHO, you are better off going with a Kadee metal coupler mounted in a Kadee coupler box (Sorry Bachmann, Kadees have often been imitated, but never duplicated in quality and durability).  I would suggest either a medium/normal length #5 or #148.

Regards,

Tom

[Doneldon]

gl-

Kadees are the best couplers and about the same price as EZMates.

                                                                                            -- D

[jward]

an easier conversion would be to cut the coupler mounting off the truck itself, and reuse the truck. you will want to replace the old "pizza cutter" wheels with new ones, but you will save the aggravation of having to fill the bolster and drill out a new hole for the truck screws. you can body mount the coupler as others have advised. note that you will need a coupler with a draft gear box.

[Doneldon]

gl-

If you remove the Talgo beam from your existing trucks so you don't have to
rebuild your bolsters, by all means use wheelsets with metal wheels. They'll
perform better and slop up your rails more slowly.
                                                                            -- D

[goddlesss]

Excellent advise ya'll!
Tom M. 
     your second post told me exactly what I needed to know.  My understanding is that once I have replaced the trucks (which will be necessary because the flat car leans to one side and this becomes quite evedent when I put the pup trailers on it.)  the different types of shanks, "upper", "center", and "bottom" mount are chose to off set any difference in height that I may need to fix.  that is the part that I couldn't figure out when I was pouring over all of the choices out there.
THANK YOU ALL! THANK YOU ALL!
     I will be back with other questions

gl-
I don't even know what those parts are...yet, but thank you for planting that seed of curiosity because I will find out!

jward
thank you for the easy alternative but the truth is I am so excited about doing this now that I am going to go "whole hog". 
  I have toted this old flat car around from home to home for decades just waiting for this time.  the kids are grown, I am out of the army and I won't be living out of boxes and duffel bags any more...to me it is a monument not an old toy!

jerrys ho
     I don't see the "thread but thank you for responding.

YA'LL ARE GREAT!

[Jerrys HO]

gl

I am sorry, must have forgot to paste. Although you have gotten some great advise, do check out this post.

http://www.bachmanntrains.com/home-usa/board/index.php/topic,18567.0.html

I wish I would have caught it earlier as they say a picture is worth a thousand words.

Jerry

[goddlesss]

THANK YOU again jerry!
don't feel bad becouse...jeepers I'm old too!
it looks like a lot of people hit you up on that comment.