NMRA gauge

[Pops]

I recently read that an NMRA gauge should be used on all track.  I understand the benefits of using it to check rolling stock, clearances, etc, but -

Is it needed with EZ Track?  I would think not, but the book said all track.  With the track mounted to the base/ballast, how could it be off?  And if it is, how would it be corrected?

[Jim Banner]

"It it's not broke, don't fix it."  Slightly over gauge track rarely causes problems unless your wheel sets are under gauge or fine scale.  Under gauge track tends to lift the cars and locomotives by pinching in against their wheel flanges.  At low speed, you may never notice it.  At high speed, a pinch may throw cars and pony trucks right off the rails.

Turnouts are a different matter.  Being a bit out of gauge almost always causes problems.  If a turnout is not causing problems, I leave it alone.  But if it does cause problems, out comes the gauge.  If it is out of gauge, it is usually possible to fix it.  Increasing gauge a little bit or widening flangeways that are too tight can be done with a file.  Many modelers use a jeweler's file but I prefer a small warding file.  The gauge is rarely too wide but if it is, you can gently heat a rail with a small soldering iron (NOT a gun) and move it in slightly.  Several precautions apply: push the rail in but not down.  Check often with the gauge.  And have a wet sponge ready to quickly chill the plastic ties while holding the rail in place.

Jim

[Pops]

Wow - Thanks, Jim. 
I guess if I find a piece of EZ track with a problem, I'll just replace it.

[Doneldon]

I guess if I find a piece of EZ track with a problem, I'll just replace it.

Pops-

I suggest that out-of-gauge EZTrack should be replaced by Bachmann, not you!

                                                                                                      -- D

[Woody Elmore]

The NMRA gauage also lets you check to see if wheels are in gauge. It can also be used to check coupler height although a Kadee coupler gauge is a much better tool for that.

[Pops]

Thanks.
I mentioned other uses in my original premise. I was just amazed that even EZ track could be out of spec.

[ebtnut]

Back in the '70's I was helping a friend build his layout.  He bought a bunch of flex track at a real good price (not Atlas, BTW).  We happened to check it with the NMRA gauge and every piece was tight gauge.  Maybe that's why the price was so good.

[Rangerover1944]

The only problem I had with EZ track, track, was the points on their turnouts, simply filed them to a point, problem solved!

But I do believe that some problems have more to do with other things such as plastic wheels, guys who don't tune up the trucks with an appropriate  truck turning tool,  http://www.micromark.com/ho-truck-tuner,8241.html and sloppy truck to bolster fit either too loose or too tight or the real cheap push in type, and lubing axle points with grease or oil. Dry fine graphite is the appropriate lube!

Though the most common cause of derailments and unwanted uncoupling are cheap built couplers with plastic springs (not gonna mention the best), coupler height, trip pin clearance.

Only serious minded modelers even have or use the NMRA gauge, and though I do use the gauge I haven't found too many out of spec wheels, but I have found wheeels that turn on the axle with great disapointment because these were expensive cars, $40.00 each. but it is one of the things I check when I have a problem with any rolling stock or engine. I personally haven't found the track out of spec to the extent that it created a problem, and usually isn't, except with certain older Atlas snap switch's and older Atlas turnouts. But even those weren't hard to fix.

There are so many varibles that can cause derailment and poor train performance but still be a perfectionist when you lay track that's the start of trouble free railroading.
Jim

[Rangerover1944]

I mentioned in my post about filing points on the Bachmann turnouts, switch's, whichever you choose to call them, they are the EZ Track switch's, I might add they have been on my layout subway for 7 years without a problem whatsoever with the exception of derailment when I first installed them. I came on this site and saw what was talked about with the point being cut square, I simply carefully filed the outside of the diverging rail point where the point lays against the stock rail, problem solved! NEVER FILE THE INSIDE OF THE POINT where the wheel flange rides!
Jim

[jward]

I mentioned in my post about filing points on the Bachmann turnouts, switch's, whichever you choose to call them, they are the EZ Track switch's, I might add they have been on my layout subway for 7 years without a problem whatsoever with the exception of derailment when I first installed them. I came on this site and saw what was talked about with the point being cut square, I simply carefully filed the outside of the diverging rail point where the point lays against the stock rail, problem solved! NEVER FILE THE INSIDE OF THE POINT where the wheel flange rides!
Jim

seriously?
filing the inside of the point where the wheel flange rides is EXACTLY what you want to do. bevelling the top edge at the end is the best way to keep wheels from picking the points. it is much harder to file between the point and stock rail, for one thing. for another, if the taper you file is wrong, the point won't fit correctly, leaving a gap between the point and stock rail your wheelflanges will probably find. filing the inside edge allows the points to fit against the stock rail the way they always have, while eliminating the blunt end on the points which catches the wheels.

[Rangerover1944]

Well yea I am very serious, using a jewerly file and carefully filing worked for me, it's tight but I WOULD NEVER, EVER FILE WHERE THE WHEEL FLANGES CONTACT THE RAIL!

All your doing by filing the inside is widening the track space out of spec, if you file too much especially at the points. Well maybe if you saw the flat point that stuck out at the point, and believe me it wasn't simply "picking the point", it derailed like hitting a brick wall, you may have changed your opinion of where to file it. Like I said, I haven't had a failure with the Bachmann turnouts for 7 years. It could be you never used Bachmann turnouts! I don't know that!

If I could find the thread from 7 years ago on here and what was recommended is what I did and like I said never had a problem since!
Hey file yours wherever you like, seriously! Jim

[Rangerover1944]

I still have a few of those turnouts I bought 8 years ago brand new in the box. If I find them I'll post a picture of what I'm talking about, that perhaps you've never seen! Jim

And this is one of the guru's on this site, who I truly have a great deal of respect for from 7 years ago who posted this response, so I guess he's filing the wrong piece of track too! I removed his name with all do respect1
   Re: EZ track turnout problems, fixes
« Reply #5 on: February 04, 2011, 12:21:32 AM »  

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

HH-

You can also file just the tiniest bit off of where the points touch the railheads. This will allow a knife thin edge to nestle flush with the railhead and eliminate any point picking in the future. The trick is to have exceedingly thin points to begin with and then remove a mere whisker of the stock rail. If you can see what you removed from more than a foot or so you took too much.

[Rangerover1944]

   
I guess another respected member  a different site who's been doing it wrong!

Re: Bachmann E-Z Track Turnout Reliability
jeffrey-wimberly replied on Sat, Apr 24 2010 8:20 PM  Reply 

I use Bachmann EZ-Track on my own layout, incuding several #4 and #5 turnouts. The track connecting to the turnout must be level in relation to the turnout. Do not lay the turnout right after a curve. You'll get a derailment almost every time. There must be a section of track level with the turnout before the start or end of a grade. Many of the turnouts have a blunt end on the point rail. File this with a fine file so it becomes flush with the stock rail. If the point rail doesn't quite reach the stock rail (known to happen) you can bend the end of the point rail slightly so that it does. If the frog seems a little high (another common problem) it can be filed down the height of the rails. I've used all these to correct the problems as best I can and I rarely have a derailment due to turnout problems.

And one more, enough said!

Bachmann turnouts blunt point fix
The sharp point rails...place a wooden matchstick between the point and the stock rail against which they lie so that the point is held away from the stock rail.  Pressing lightly with a thumb, keep the point rail against the match, which is butted against the inner stock rail face, and using a small metal needle file, begin a series of long gentle strokes with the file held at a very shallow angle to the tip.  You are stroking from the frog toward the tip and beyond.  Your aim is to file that tip to a very thin blade.  In doing this, you may improve any narrow gauge sufficiently that nothing else needs to be done, but you will also reduce the probability of any one flange picking the blunt point and lifting the entire truck or engine off the rails.

One or all of these things is the problem, assuming that all your wheels on the rolling items are in gauge...also verifiable with your trusty NMRA gauge.

-Crandell

Jim

[Ken G Price]

The following is the method that I have come up with for my Atlas switches.
If don't think it will work for you then please feel free to ignore it
After I have filed a little and it did not solve the problem.
And I can not find any reason for the wheel flange picking the point rail I have just started to put a little bump of solder on the rail just in front of the point rail.
This pushes the wheel flange just far enough away so it will not pick the point.
Now the wheel travels onto and over the point rail not into it.
If you put to much solder, just remove some. If not enough add some.

If your point rail wobbles and the hinge is loose this may cause the point picking.
If so filing will not solve the problem.
So after lining it up correctly I solder the point rail at the hinge to the stock rail.
If you have switch machines they may not be strong enough to move the now solid one piece rail.
The bump of solder method my be the only way to go.
As I use Caboose ground throws I always solder loose ones.

[JerryB]

Returning to the OP's question:

Yes, any kind of track can be out of gauge, have points or frogs that need adjustment, or any number of other problems. Same with wheel gauge and spacing, as well as coupler mismatch, etc.

One of the first purchases you need to make in order to ensure good performance from your trains is a standards gauge. The NMRA H0 gauge costs $12 for non-members, and $5 for members. In my opinion, it is an absolute necessity for anyone moving beyond the simple loop that comes in starter sets.

Note that in addition to track gauge, the gauge serves to check turnout flangeways and points, wheels, coupler height and loading gauge. It also has a no-go gauge for wheelsets.

BTW, the NMRA currently has a special membership deal called "Rail Pass Trial Membership:" $9.95 for 6 months. That includes the magazine and access to member items from the store such as the H0 gauge for $5.00 instead of the nonmember price of $12.00. See:

http://www.nmra.org/membership/railpass.html

That special means you can have the gauge along with a 6 month membership for $15. Great deal.

As to all the above suggestions about how to deal with turnouts that cause derailments, just guessing at what is wrong will generally not lead to the best solution. Using a gauge to locate and determine the real problem with errant trackwork (or perhaps the wheelsets) will really help in quickly coming to a good resolution for that problem.

Happy (Well Gauged) RRing,

Jerry