Train around the perimeter of my room, need advice please.

[dmfahie]

Hello. My son and I purchased a White Pass train in G scale. We want to run it in the perimeter of my sign shop. I need some advice...

What is the tightest radius I can have around corners?

I was going to use pine, should I use .50" or .75"?

How much wider should I make the platform for the track then the track itself?

Should I have a clear plexi "fence" around the track (I prefer not)?

Any other advice would be much appreciated. I have a CNC so I plan on building all the components in-house. If anybody have pics to send to assist or can point us in the right direction that would be very helpful.

Thank You in advance,
Devin Fahie

[bobwrgt]

I had one around the ceiling of one of my spare rooms. About 16in down. I used the standard sectional track that came with the set plus more straight sections. I took 1 x 2 strips and screwed them to the studs thru the dry wall. Then i used 1/2 or 5/8 x 6in  pine to great a shelf. Just screwed this to the strips along the back and it was enough to support the train and track. Toenailed/ screwed. You don't need a slew of brackets if you run light trains.
Ran a Big Hauler and 6 passenger cars with no problems.
The tight radius will not handle a long diesel or steam engine without it hitting the wall because of the overhang in the turns. But it should be fine for small steam or.short diesels like a GP 7/9.
You don't need a guard rail as long as you don't run the train at full throttle. My grandson and I never had one fall off.
The hard part is getting good lumber (straight) and keeping it level.


Bob

[mabloodhound]

Use 3/4" plywood, cut into strips the width you need, for your supports and shelf.   It will be straight and not warp like regular boards.
Bob's methods sound fine.

[NarrowMinded]

I suggest you assemble a "L" shape with a 1/4 of your curves and all your straights,

Set your locomotive on it and push it into a corner or create a corner with boards to simulate the walls then run your train down a straight through the corner and down a straight, you will see the overhang of the cars is the biggest issue going into and out of the curves the corners of the loco and rolling stock swing closest to the wall.

Move the track away from the "walls" until you have at least an inch or more at the closest point. then measure how wide you want your shelf.

REMEMBER Longer locomotives and Rolling stock will in general overhang more and swing closer to the wall so be sure of what limits you will accept on your railway by choosing the radius of track and rolling stock you plan to run.

Instead of Plexiglas consider building a miniature fence of the style you like on the outside high enough to prevent a loco/rolling stock from running off the edge.

I used dowels with holes drilled through and then pulled 1/16th stainless cable through the holes and pulled it tight with mini turn buckles to create a cable/post guard rail fence.

[NarrowMinded]

One more thing, you may also want to leave room between the wall and the track for Building facades to add a little more interest as your train runs past them. With that CNC you could cut out some great ones, maybe even a facade of your own store front.

NM-Jeff

[dmfahie]

Thanks for all of the advice, its all great. NarrowGauge, funny you said that. A friend of my fathers by the name of Michael Tylick is building our Sign Shop to scale for out "ceiling" layout. Again, my son and I thank you. The name of my shop is Sebago Signworks (sebagosignworks.com) and if you join our Facebook Page we will be posting updates on the layout.  Due to that we are a sign co, we want to have a bunch of sign related stuff like signs and billboards around the perimeter of it.

Thanks!

[Terry Toenges]

Devin - Great way to advertise!

[Doneldon]

dmf-

You can also use .25" Plexigrass to support your roadbed. It's very rigid, especially in the narrow widths you'll be using, and it will let you see your trains a little better. The biggest advantage is that it won't warp or change shape at all as humidity levels change through the seasons. It cuts easily with a saber saw. I've never tried it, but a circular saw with a fine blade would probably work, too, and be a lot faster. Good luck!
                                                                                                                                                                 -- D

[NarrowMinded]

Just a Note I rip Plexigals with a standard cicular saw all the time it works just fine just go a little slower then wood if you choose to use the plexiglas idea don't over tighten screws into it, it will crack and ruin your work.

Doh! your a sign maker You likely know all about plexiglas...

NM-Jeff