Weight of rolling stock

[jyoung8442]

Could someone tell me how to determine the optimum weight for rolling stock?  Sometime ago , I found a formula that calculates this weight for maximum performance, but I cannot locate it.  Thanks.

[jonathan]

jyoung,

NMRA standards for HO scale rolling stock is 1 ounce plus 1/2 ounce per inch of car length.

Googled it.

Regards,

Jonathan

[jyoung8442]

Thank you very much.  When all else fails...Google.

[Jhanecker2]

Check out : http://www.nmra.org/standards/sandprrp-20_1 html  . this is the National Model Railroad Associations  Recommenced Practice.  J2

[richg]

Get an inexpensive digital scale off of ebay. I did that a few years ago. Just make sure it can read the max of what you figure your heaviest loco will weigh.

Rich

[jyoung8442]

Thanks to everyone for their replies.  Just something about knowing the tricks of the trade that save enormous amounts of frustration.

[CNE Runner]

If you have a Harbor Freight store in your vicinity, they sell a very inexpensive digital scale. HF also sells wheel weights in 0.5 oz and 0.25 oz sizes that have double-sided sticky tape on one surface. While these weights are really designed to balance automobile wheels, they work extremely well for model trains...and are inexpensive.

Regards,
Ray

[Tom M.]

Here is what has worked for me.  I weigh all my cars at 4 oz regardless of car length.  (Some longer cars may already be over that weight, and that is OK.)

I have a large home layout with two steep helper grades.  One of these grades twists and turns for over 50 actual feet as it climbs from the lower deck to the upper deck on my layout.  The other is a multi-turn helix.  I run up to 35 car coal trains on these grades with rear end helpers.  I find the consistent weight of the cars promotes very smooth operations.  The weight is heavy enough to keep the cars on the rails except for the "heavy handest" helper crews who attempt to push way too hard.  You also don't have to worry about having too heavy of cars at the rear of the train dragging cars off the rails ahead of them.

Tom

[Steve Magee]

As an aside to all this, many years ago my then-6 year old son found some old box cars, loaded them with various nuts and bolts then left them on the track. At first I was horrified when my fav loco at the time couldnt move them without very careful throttle application (slipped otherwise). Then I found I was really driving a train. No electronic momentum, just the real stuff. I checked the weight of each car and they averaged over 16 ozs for a 40' car.

Now I don't recommend this - take pity on the poor axle points that serve as a bearing - but I still fondly remember slow throttle applications, plenty of braking before a curve, assigning enough power to make the grade .... ah well, at least my axle points don't destroy truck sideframes now

Steve

[jward]

add me to the list of those who prefer cars weighted to more than nmra standards.

also, you can't get cheaper weights than pennies. i believe they are 5c per ounce.

[CNE Runner]

Pennies...huh, who would have 'thunk' it? I use pennies to weight tank cars and never thought about other types of rolling stock. Good idea jward.

Ray

[blf]

Been using pennies for many many years. I use a white glue, brand name of Weldbond made in Canada, but local hardhare stores can get it. First found it at Lowe's, but haven't seen it there in a long time. Never had it come lose, in fact when you go to remove it for any reason it's a chore. I first clean pennies by dipping them in lacquer thinner then glue them in equal stacks, it's  a messy operation' Then glue them to the floor. Never had any come lose. Bill

[PiedmontRR]

I'm using fishing sinkers.  They tell you how much they weigh right on it. and I am sticking about 2 oz on each truck if the unit is long enough to support it.  My reasoning is because I am tired of all the derailements at the switches and curves.  This makes them hold the track well.  I just pop the shell off and use Elmer's glue to secure the weights.  I am not using model cement with that because the Elmer's glue can get cleaned up easily and the model cement can't.   a 4 oz unit plus whatever it weighs without the added weights.  I am not as concerend about the weights because my units are not going to a competition like a pine car race where the weight is of importance.  If you loco can't pull it maybe it needs more weight?  Mine do very well, with an average of 15 boxcars.

[Tedshere]

    Well, I'll add a little in line with what Steve Mcgee said. But it wasn't my son, it was me. I ran out of fishing weights and then noticed one of the coffee cans full of nuts and bolts collected over the years.
    I measure it all out and leave a bit of weight open for the glue to make up. Then use hot melt glue to keep them from shifting around. I don't use this where they'd be visible, but everyplace else has worked fine. And even cheaper than 5 cents per ounce.