masonite only for train table top?

[AlanMintaka]

Hey Everyone,

I'm considering adding on to an existing table that's basically two ping-pong tables (5' X 9' each) joined at the corners of an "L" by a 5' X 5' sheet of 1/2" plywood.

I have a lot of large sheets of 1/8" masonite here, about 3' X 4' each. 

At the moment I have no extra plywood, but I do have a lot of framing lumber: 2' X 4' for the frame, 4' X 4' for legs (overkill, but they look really nice).

Given all that, I was wondering about enlarging the table with sections that have masonite only as the top - i.e., no plywood underneath.  With the framing lumber I can certainly make it sturdy enough.  I could also double-layer the 1/8" sheets if necessary to minimize sagging between the joists. 

What I don't know about is how masonite works as the only tabletop material over the long haul, and how it works for train tables in particular.

I will certainly seal it somehow - I have a lot of stuff for doing that as well, from poly to solid wood stain (the latter might only work on the unfinished side of the masonite though).  The layout is in a basement with a tabletop dehumidifier that works OK but isn't perfect on really humid days.

What will it support?  Not much in terms of weight, unless I happen to fall onto the table while working on it.  The landscaping will be done with layers of solid "Pink Panther" or similar foam.  The trains and track (HO gauge) will probably be the heaviest items on it.

What do you think?  I is masonite-only worth using just to save some bucks on plywood, or should I just spring for the ply in order to save myself later problems with the masonite?

Thanks for your time,
Alan Mintaka

[jward]

in my opinion, masonite is just too flimsy for its use as subroadbed. masonite bends and can warp over time. it is good for control panels and backdrops, but not much else.

instead, rather than buy a whole sheet of plywood but only use a small piece of it, why not use pieces of 1x4 white pine. a 6 foot length is only a couple of bucks, and should privide all the wood needed for your corner. best of all, you can leave this section unsupported if the longest piece is under 3 feet long.

[AlanMintaka]

in my opinion, masonite is just too flimsy for its use as subroadbed. masonite bends and can warp over time. it is good for control panels and backdrops, but not much else.

instead, rather than buy a whole sheet of plywood but only use a small piece of it, why not use pieces of 1x4 white pine. a 6 foot length is only a couple of bucks, and should privide all the wood needed for your corner. best of all, you can leave this section unsupported if the longest piece is under 3 feet long.

Well, actually, a 4' X 8' sheet of plywood would have only slightly more area than I need to enlarge the table the way I want to.  I should have provided the dimensions of the extensions, rather than just the table - sorry about that.

I plan to lengthen each end of the table's "L" by 3 ft.  Since the table is 5 ft wide on each leg of the "L". that means I need two table-top sections of 3' X 5' each.  The total area required for the two sections would be 30 sq. ft., only 2 sq. ft. less than a 4' X 8' sheet of plywood.  Obviously I'd have to do some piecing with a 4' X 8' sheet of whatever because of the 5 ft width, but that's certainly not a show-stopper.

That's why the issue of getting a 4' X 8' sheet of plywood wouldn't be one of waste, just cost vs. what I have on hand.

However, you've given me ideas with the suggestion to just piece together the extensions with pine boards.  I'll have to go back over my inventory to see if I can do it that way.  I just wasn't thinking along the lines of board platforms.

Thanks for the advice,
Alan Mintaka

[Doneldon]

Alan-

Your idea makes good economic and environmental sense but I don't think you will be at all happy with the results of your effort. Masonite is a great product for some uses but I wouldn't expect it to do what you want here unless you laminate it to at least 1/2" (four-ply) and even that is questionable.

Since you plan to use pink insulation board to build your terrain, why not use your existing lumber, overspec though it is, with two-inch foam for your surface. That would provide a firm, stable and reliable surface. Better would be to frame with 1"x3" lumber supported by the two existing tables. Attach the floating connection with carriage bolts and wing nuts or, better yet, butt hinges. Once the hinges are installed you can break down the setup by just removing the hinge pins. No legs necessary.
                                                                                                                                                                                  -- D

[poliss]

Every book about baseboard construction says don't use it. Reasons: It's too hard and thin, doesn't take screws or track pins (spikes), it has no structural strength and is extremely noisy when trains run over it. Best used as a backboard for scenic paper.
(For British readers Masonite is hardboard.)

[CNE Runner]

Al - In addition to the comments regarding Masonite that were mentioned above, I would be concerned about the width of the proposed layout. How are you going to reach into the center of this thing without causing damage? I have found that something in the order of 30" to be the maximum one can comfortably/safely reach. While your 5' width does bisect into 30"; the 30" rule only applies to unobstructed reaching. Any taller scenery, or structures, will reduce this considerably.

Just my opinion...good luck anyway,
Ray