Converting to DCC

[innes]

Thank you so much for your answers everyone!  I think to avoid any risks to just use a DCC layout.  It will probably clear up alot of confusion as well.  The only problem now is that now i have to end up installing DCC decoders into the engines I plan to buy.  (I'm a sucker for Thomas and Friends/British railway models)

Thanks again and one more quickie...
How would you install interior lighting into a passenger car/caboose? (step by step instructions)  Would I use a LED or is that too bright? Will I have the option to turn them off during the day using DCC?

[Bojangle]

Innes:
In order to work this out let me relate a practical experience.

1.  If you have 2 separate  loops, and want to control each loop and loco individually,  you need  2 controllers.   I started out that way, so my wife and I could run our trains separately. This worked fine until wife says, "let's switch tracks".

2.  On a single track, single throttle,  "Park and run" is simple.  Just isolate sidings with switches to turn the sidings off or on.  You need one more siding than the number of locos on the layout.  One loco pulls into a siding, turn the switch off.   Turn the switch on for the other siding where you have loco #2 parked, and pull onto the main. 

3.  Switching tracks, two throttles,  gets a bit more involved, but can be fun.    We added 2 crossovers (just turnouts nose to nose),  Two rights on one side for the inner to outer exchange, and two lefts on other side for outer to inner exchange, all isolated,  with switches.   Problem solved? Not quite.  Wife says she wants to keep her throttle because it "feels" better.  So...we added double throw switches to change our throttles (packs) to the other loop.  Since the other operator will need total control of the entire layout while making the exchange,  the first operator needs to turn his pack off, or have an isolation switch.

All the switches were on a control panel with a diagram, just like real railroads, looked pretty impressive.   In DC language, this is loosely called a "block" layout. 

Enter DCC.   One power pack, one track layout, two operators, two throttles (cabs), no switches (except for remote turnouts).  In DCC, the controllers are referred to as "cabs", since each one is in total and separate control of it's accessed loco, and each area is called a "district", as it may or may not be necessarily isolated. 

Think this over a bit, don't hesitate to ask if you have more questions.  The cost of converting to DCC is not really a factor anymore, you can set up a two cab system for the price of a single sound equipped locomotive.  (about $250)

Good luck
Bo

[Bojangle]

Innes:
My post got on too late and didn't see yours.

Led's are fine for cars.  You would also have to add pickups to the car,  just a little bent piece of very flexible copper as a "brush" against a metal axle.  Change the wheels out to ones that are only insulated on one end. 

You can operate the light with DCC, but  you would need a wire all the way to the encoder.  A tiny switch on the caboose would work.

When you get the led, be sure the  proper limiting resistor comes with it.  If you buy the leds in  bulk, I have a link to a calculator for the size resistor.

Whew, I need a drink, someone else take over lol.....
Bo

[mlt1]

Hi Bo,

Yes, when you see this, send me an e-mail.  I don't have your address.

Thanks.

mlt1

[jsmvmd]

Dear Innes,

This link from our friend Hunt, et al will help you:

http://www.wiringfordcc.com/

Best Wishes,

Jack