New FA-2's

[Rod in PA]

Jeffery,
My concerns for converting to DCC include:

1.  The gauge of wire (#20) I used to power the tracks would be inefficient and I would have to run  heavier bus lines.  My layout is made up of four individual 4' x 5' sections.  Each one is separately wired to a main control panel using 20 pair telephone cables.  This method of construction was done so I could dismantel, crate and ship my layout when needed.  I began my layout when I was in the Air Force (late '70s) and stationed overseas.
2.  I'm not sure if my turnouts would be DCC compatible; I use a diode matrix route control system for all of my turnouts.
3.  I have a number of older engines that I like but it would not be cost effective to convert them to DCC.

I'm happy with the DC operation of my small layout; I just wanted to have a sound equipped loco to add to my roster.  Since all of my recent additions are Bachmann, which work very well, I was glad when they came out with an affordable, DC compatible engine.  However, needless to say, I was very disappointed when I tried to run the new FA-2 and it didn't work as advertised.  Thanks for you input.   

[richg]

I have a layout with #20 wire and my Tsunami run just fine. I only run two locos max.

Rich

[Rod in PA]

Hi Rich,

Are you saying you run DCC track power with #20 wire?  If so, that's interesting; everything I've read about DCC suggests using at least #16, and #14 would be even better.  At first I was concerned about using #20 wire with DC , but it works fine.  Any views on turnout wiring for DCC?  All my turnouts are Shinohara and have powered frogs, and all are wired through a diode matrix.  I don't know if this set up would be compatible with DCC or not?  If so, I might consider trying an inexpensive DCC system.  Any thoughts on this would be greatly appreciated.  Thanks, Rod.

[pdleth]

If you try High Ball graphics they special in in the northeast railroads

[richg]

Hi Rich,

Are you saying you run DCC track power with #20 wire?  If so, that's interesting; everything I've read about DCC suggests using at least #16, and #14 would be even better.  At first I was concerned about using #20 wire with DC , but it works fine.  Any views on turnout wiring for DCC?  All my turnouts are Shinohara and have powered frogs, and all are wired through a diode matrix.  I don't know if this set up would be compatible with DCC or not?  If so, I might consider trying an inexpensive DCC system.  Any thoughts on this would be greatly appreciated.  Thanks, Rod.

Yes it will.
What you have read is correct but for just a couple locos, not a problem. If you want more, than the heavier wire is needed.
If you want DCC controlled turnouts, reverser's or operate accessories from the DCC track voltage, then you need heavier wire.
Many buy 5 amp systems and some run 8 amp systems with boosters for different parts of the layout.

All I did is pull the DC power pack connector and plugged in the DCC controller.

We did that at our HO scale club for maybe four years but eventually started adding the #14 wire with the original #22 feeders.
Our club has all slow motion turnouts operated off a 12 vdc buss, only for turnouts and lighting.

If you plug in your DCC controller and the locos run fine then don't worry about it.

Get a couple of the below multimeters. They read about 13.7 volts AC on a DCC system and can help with troubleshooting. I have had three of these for some years and are very close to an expensive meter and cheap to replace if you burn it out.
Guess how much to replace a $200 multimeter.

I have NCE at home and our club has NCE also.

http://www.harborfreight.com/7-function-digital-multimeter-90899.html

Rich

[richg]

Our club uses the turnouts with power routing contacts. No idea about the diodes though. We have a diode matrix for a Peco three way but the wires have nothing to do with the power to the rails.

Rich

[jward]

20 guage wire is a little small but will work. what will happen if wire size is too small is that the circuit breaker in the dcc command station won't pop if you get a short. and the resistance in the feeder wires might degrade the dcc signal. a quick checque is to power up the dcc and put a quarter on the rails. if the circuit breaker pops you should be ok. if it doesn't then rewire with heavier wire. i've wired entire layouts using 18 guage with no problems. it's only slightly heavier than what you are using.

[Rod in PA]

Hi Guys,
I too never run more than two trains at once, so the #20 wire sounds like it should be okay for DCC operation on my small layout.  My concern about DCC and turnouts has to do with track polarity, not controlling the turnouts with DCC power.  I use twin coil switch machines and a "Snapper" power supply to operate the turnouts.  So I'm guessing the diode matrix shouldn't be a problem.  What I'm not sure about is the affect different types of turnouts (powered frogs, insulated frogs, etc.) might have on how to properly wire the track for DCC.  With the turnouts and track in place and ballasted, it would be difficult to make any changes.  But, if it's just a matter of running a positive and negative wire to each track power feed, or simply setting all block switches in one direction and connecting DCC power, that seems pretty easy.  I think I'll do some more research into DCC; maybe it won't be as complicated to convert as I thought.  Thanks for all of the info.
Rod

[jward]

the only major problem with track switches and dcc comes with the all rail power routing ones. on those, the two points and the frog are all electrically one unit, which switches "polarity" depending on which way the switch is thrown. the problem arises when a metal wheel back rubs the adjacent point, which is the opposite polarity. the resultant short circuit isn't noticeable to a dc power pack, but will trip the circuit breaker on a dcc system. the result is erratic operation through the switch. the solution is to cut gaps in the closure rails near the frog, to insulate the frog from the points. you then jumper each closure rail to the adjacent stock rail so that the points are always the same polarity as the adjacent stock rail.

switches which have a plastic or isolated frog do not have this problem.

electrically, the easiest way to convert to dcc is to hook the command station up to one side of your lock selectors, in place of one of the existing dc power packs. you then set all your selectors to this setting so that your dcc is powering all your track. this method has the added advantage of being able to isolate different sections of track in case of a short circuit, or when you want to park a locomotive to lessen the power drain on the dcc system.