Plywood on top of foam?

[Jake]

I have been pondering this for quite a while, I have heard that with woodland scenics Mod-U-Rail & other components, using track nails often doesn't work, and the tension of flex track (which I plan on using) can actually move the nail and distort the track & foam. But I have also heard that in humid conditions woodland scenics glue can cure incorrectly and also cause distortions. But I have come up with an Idea and I need you guys to help me generate a go or no-go opinion. I have gotten the Idea of using both. As in, say I am using a 2" riser, I'll trim 1/4" off of that, and cut a piece of 1/4" plywood to the same dimensions/radius ect., glue that on top of the riser so I still have my 2" elevation, glue track-bed on top of that, lay down the glue, lay the track, and nail it into place as a redundancy just to be sure that track doesn't bend over time, using the plywood to provide a rigid structure for the nails. Could something go wrong that my 13 year old brain isn't seeing? Thanks in advance!

[martin_lumber]

I read your question about 5 times; though still a bit conused, I think I understand what you are saying.

Yes, the flex track will bend and pull your nails out, if directly put into the foam.

If you use roadbed (Cork), and put enough nails into the foam, and enough nails from the track into the roadbed, the track should not warp or anything. If it is solid and sturdy in the first place, it shouldn't move.

The only problem I can see (well, at least for me) is that putting track on top of the roadbed and foam will reduce the noise of the cars running over it to nothing. Putting the roadbed on plywood will be noisy.

Just my 2 cents worth. If I'm not understanding the question, let me know. My 15 year old brain might not see as well as yours

Phil

[Jake]

Hmm, after a little thought I have found a problem that is WAY too much wood to be practical. So I have come to anothe idea of the same concept. Instead of trimming all of the foam and replacing it with a plywood top, using it only on curves, (as it would be plain odd using it on straight trackage) Just cut an indentation in the foam (Lets say, again 1/4" deep so a 1/4" piece of plywood would be even with it) where the nails would be, glue in a small piece of plywood, (about the with of the riser and about 1" long.) an simply nail the track at those points. Sorry if this all sounds conveluted, it's late.

[SteamGene]

When you drive in the nails into the plywood on top of the foam, what is going to happen to the foam?
Why not glue the track down?  If you are using Woodland Scenic risers in one of their kits, you do not have a problem with track alignment. 
Gene

[Rangerover]

Use cheap latex cauking to fasten track to foam. You can temporailly put nails or weight it down with a heavy flat object until caulk dries. But be warned, your train may run quiet on the foam, but it gets very noisey when and if you balllast it. I'm an old timer and used homasote and plywood. In my humble opinion it's still the best. Jim

[Beatle (TrainBrain)]

I'd:
1. plywood-homosote-cork-track
2. plywood-homosote-foam-cork-track

Installation. *I recommend a push drill at some points*:
1. glue the homosote to the plywood.
2. glue down the foam
3. put down the cork (glue if you want).
4. nail down the cork.
5. laydown the flex track (I wouldn't recommend gluing yet).
6. make small holes for track power wires (with tool of choice).
7. use a push drill to drill through the ties (at your spot of choice, glue first if you want), then spike down the ties.
8. finish track connections and wiring.

If you want to bank you tracks:
1. follow above until you get to #5.
2. get very thin styriene strips, varying in thickness (I'll get measurements later).
3. slide them under the outside rim of the ties (thinest to thickest to thinest).
4. use the push drill through the styriene and spike down.
5. pick up from #5 above and go on.

At the end of both, of course, lay down your gravel, glue it, and drop a train on it!

I didn't use foam , I might on the next layout (construction should begin soon! ). A push drill goes through homosote as well as it does foam.

[Craig]

I have Woodland Scenics foam risers and inclines on my 11x7x18 and just under 100 yards of flex track. I didn't use any track nails. The suggestions above for using adhesive caulk to affix your flex track are well offered. My cork is affixed to the foam with adhesive caulk and the track is affixed to the cork with adhesive caulk. I also have track affixed directly to extruded foam in places. No nails.

[ray46]

If you're using the Woodland Scenics System the homosote is unnecessary and if where you live is anything like where I live you won't be able to find it anyway.  Just use cork or foam roadbed (Woodland Scenics) on the foam risers, glue the track to the roadbed using caulk as recommened, and hold it until it dries with the pins sold by Woodland Scenics.  When its dry, ballast the track it the traditional way, alcohol or wet water followed by a soaking of white glue (the good kind not what it sold for use in schools) mixed 50/50 with water.  When it dries the ballast will have more that enough strength to hold the track even if the caulk fails which, if you did it right, won't, fail that is.

[japasha]

I have about five years on my present layout using Woodland Scenics risers and all. Do not use foam roadbed. The stuff does not really work in holding the track in place. Use cork roadbed under the track and nail it. If you glue the track down, any maintenance will be a disaster.

If you use Bachmann track sections, the need for anchoring is less but still required. The normal heat/cooling cycles will cause displacement of the risers.  Whatevver you make the layout on should be stiff and pretty rigid to resist this tendency.

I have found a combination of plywood base with Woodland Scenics risers to be good with minimal problems once you have surfaced the top and then use cork for the roadbed. This is almost a necessity if you handlay track.

The best is to use plywood base with cork or homosote if you can find it.

[Craig]

If you glue the track down, any maintenance will be a disaster.

I agree. But glue and adhesive caulk are not quite the same thing. Adhesive caulk is applied in a very thin layer. I can remove a 3' length of flex track, set in caulk, with a long-bladed utility knife in about 30 seconds and recycle the track with ease.

The normal heat/cooling cycles will cause displacement of the risers.

I affix my risers directly to sheets of extruded foam that are mounted to a sturdy base composed of underlayment and lumber.

Craig

[Beatle (TrainBrain)]

I never glued my track down, or used foam, so, I'm learning!

[Craig]

TrainBrain, If you've never affixed track with adhesives or worked with foam, how did you arrive at your post of July 13?


Craig

[Beatle (TrainBrain)]

I saw someone do it, or someone had it and explained it.