Tinkering with the new 0-6-0 (DCC)

[jonathan]

OK,

Here's the new and improved 0-6-0 with DCC:


We've covered the front coupler issue. Seems to be working well so far.

Here's a few other upgrades to make this loco a little more Spectrum-like.

Widened the valve gear hangar. Added brackets to the pilot steps, per the prototype. Filled the smoke receptacle with lead and epoxy. Blackened (sp) the drive rods and valve gear:




Shell:
Added a brass whistle, brass bell, brass injectors, piping, grab irons on the cab, and B&O logo. Still needs markers, window glazing, figures, etc...







Tender:

Added pickups from an unused tender. Traded out stock weights to make room for the wheel wires. Added a reverse light.  I put a 5/32" aluminum tube in the reverse light so the bulb wouldn't melt the plastic.  I couldn't get a small enough LED to fit for now.








I actually got a #5 coupler to fit in the gear box.  I filed a channel in the box cover and the centering spring and coupler fit very nicely.

The grimy black weathering is just the first step. Still a few steps to go.  I will post pics again, when I'm ready for final assembly.  Makin' progress...

Regards,

Jonathan

[on30gn15]

She's lookin good. 

Widened the valve gear hangar.

A little more detail on the valve gear hangar job?

Blackened (sp) the drive rods and valve gear:

Picked up an old Reading 2-8-0 which could stand to have that done: how'd you do this loco?

[jonathan]

On30,

I blackened the rods with neolube.  The bottle seems expensive at first.  However, 1 bottle wll probably last your entire modeling career.  Plus, it has so many uses, and looks good to boot.

Can't do much else to the valve gear.  Tolerances are pretty tight.  It's hard to fit even the finest styrene between the crosshead and eccentric rod.  I did what I could.

Getting close to the end.  Testing the reverse light:


Weight in the domes:


Crew and window glazing:


Markers and jewels:


Regards,

Jonathan

[Doneldon]

jonathan-

Gorgeous, as usual.

             -- D

[on30gn15]

Looks like it got dusty, got rained on, then got dusty again, cool.

[jonathan]

Thanks, guys.

I'm still in a quandry over adding a sound only decoder to the tender.  In order to shoot a speaker through the coal load, I will have to remove the tender shell mounting post.  Meaning, I'll have to find a different way to secure the shell to the underframe.  Looks like there are a couple of SMALL flush pieces that could be joined with an 00-90 (eyeglass) screw.  Sound will be a future project, when I've tested this loco to make sure it's a long-term keeper.  Seems to be at the moment. 

I am ever surprised and impressed with the standard Bachmann locos, along with the Spectrums.  If I can get the motor and worm properly lubed, this loco should last on the order of years.  Not bad for a train show impulse buy. 

Regards,

Jonathan

[NMWTRR]

FYI, I just finished adding a sound decoder to a Mantua 0 6 0 and I drilled the sound holes down through the tender chassis.

http://s902.photobucket.com/albums/ac226/nmwtrr/0%206%200%20Mantua%20update/

The speaker is large so it has a lot of volume and sounds good you can hear it in the video.

This is a special loco as it was the first one I built over 30 years ago, good to see it running again.

Jonathon as always your work is inspiring keep it up!!!   

[Jim Banner]

Great work, as usual.  But it has my 0-6-0T quaking in terror.  You have got me looking at it with the idea of converting it to 0n30.

If I may offer a solution that I have used to hold a tenders and other things together - try cementing two or more styrene blocks to the inside of the tender wall, then drilling up through the tender floor and through the blocks with the correct tap drill for the screws you use.  Then you can tap the blocks and enlarge the holes in the floor with the correct body drill.  This guarantees the holes line up perfectly.  I use #2-56 screws for this job - easy to work with, don't pull out of the styrene as easily as smaller screws, and you cannot see them under the floor, especially if you paint them black.  For styrene blocks, I often cement a pile of scraps together and clamp them over night, then cut them up into 1/4" cubes the next day.  If you use 4 blocks, one near each corner, you can remove all the supports from inside the tender, including the ridges where the sides sit on the floor.  This is useful if you want to lower a tender a little bit.

Jim

[jonathan]

NMWTRR,

Looked through all your Mantua photos and the video.  Great stuff.  I love tinkering with vintage trains.  I think Photobucket has video issues.  My videos turn out with that jerky thing going on, too.  Maybe it's not my camera, but the photobucket storage method.

Jim,

Thanks, great idea.  The whole thing seems like common sense.  Why didn't I think of that?  Pure genius.  It never occurred to me to build my own mounting blocks.  The sound project seems like easy work now.

I've reached the end of the beginning for this project.  The loco is up and running.  Still needs a bit more weathering. I need a rountuit to finish the job.

BTW, here's the smoke switch that sat on the backhead:


I found I had to file a bit on the 'gear box cover'.  It kept hitting the diverting rail on turnouts.  Easy fix:


As a test of the new front coupler, I sent the locomotive up a 3% grade, pushing three box cars.  And there's a curve in there, too:


Here are some final shots of the finished project.  Thanks for letting me share.

Regards,

Jonathan

[CNE Runner]

Jonathan - Not only are your directions/explanations clear and concise; your images support, and illustrate, the various points you are making. I would say you seem to have a gift for this sort of thing. Thank you for sharing your efforts.

Respectfully,
Ray

[J3a-614]

I have to agree, she looks great. 

Like the Docksides, one could build a whole switching or industrial railroad around a few of these little buggers, and as far as power goes, it would be a bargain.

Hmm, you would need some road power, but the passenger car suggests a theme not always used--a switching railroad based on a large passenger terminal, like the one at Washington, DC. . .

Hope you are finding the passenger cars run well on your curves; they are l-o-n-g. . .

[on30gn15]

This is a special loco as it was the first one I built over 30 years ago, good to see it running again.

Those Mantua locos were kind of "stone age" technology, but then again, keep them away from water and rocks will last forever 

[Smokestack]

I have a Bachmann 0-6-0 Pennsy  with tender and smoke, but My hobby store just told me it is too small to install the Dcc conversion Kit.
You obviously have the knowledge about this sort of thing. I was directed to this site from another forum to see if you might suggest the type of decoder I might install. Do you think it is just too costly for the hobby stores mechanic to justify the installation on this unit? can it be done ?

[jonathan]

Once again, friends, thanks for the compliments.  Just wish I could stop playing with rolling stock and finish my scenery for once and for all.

Smokestack,

I am not a DCC expert.  My loco came with DCC.  HOWEVER, DCC conversion for these 0-6-0s should be fairly straightforward.  I tinkered with a non-DCC version and found one could slip some sort of insulating tape between the motor tabs and split frame halves.  The decoder pick up wires could be connected to the frame halves either by solder or by using the t-nuts.  I would put the decoder in the tender and run wires to the motor and headlight (which will also have to be insulated from the frame).

I would not try to grind the frames to put the decoder in the loco.  The drive mechanism is tiny.  I wouldn't want to disassemble and put that thing back together.

I know that probably doesn't help much.  There are some great DCC folks here, who can offer better advice.

Regards,

Jonathan

[on30gn15]

but My hobby store just told me it is too small to install the Dcc conversion Kit.

Guess that would mean that an N-scale GE 44 tonner like this one is also too small for DCC http://www.bachmanntrains.com/home-usa/products.php?act=viewProd&productId=3453