newbie dcc set recommendation

[fmp]

My son has been asking for a train set for a while now and I am finally going to get him one.  I have a few questions I hope someone could help me with as I have no idea what to really look for and don't want to go broke buying the wrong things...

I have set aside an 8x8 area, I know he will want to expand his beginner set right away, so I am hoping this will do.  I am looking at the Bachmann Digital Commander Deluxe HO Train Set 501, (the one with 2 engines).  It only comes with a single manual left turn, so I will also get additional track, and would like to be able to use the console to control the left and right switches.

Is this a big enough area to start, (8x8)?
Is this a good set, or should I look at something else? 
Will I be able to control the switches from the console or can I only control the trains?
What else should I be looking for?

thanks in advance for any guidance!

[ACY]

The turnout included is manual, it cannot be controlled electronically. To control a turnout from the E-Z Command you need to buy DCC turnouts which can get pretty expensive. I would also use an area where you can reach all parts of the layout with an 8x8 you might not be able to reach the center with out a special step ladder. Generally it is best not to buy train sets and buy what you want individually but from a discount retailer such as the Favorite Spot on ebay or other online stores. If you want to electronically control turnouts, but are looking to be cost effective you can buy standard turnouts (not manual or DCC) and use an old power source with AC and rated appropriately to control them.

[Jerrys HO]

fmp,

That is a good starter set and is easily expandable. I have this set also among others by Bachmann. I have posted a link to get you started on the DCC system and what it is capable of.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JAin_nEMHlY&feature=related

To answer your questions-
8x8 yes
good set yes
control turnouts yes
looking for depends on how much you want to do with your son.( check out my post on the roundhouse project

http://www.bachmanntrains.com/home-usa/board/index.php/topic,17942.0.html

That is the project me and my 10yr.old started.

Hope this helps you
Jerry

[mabloodhound]

With an area that size, you will really need a cutout in the center to access the inside items.   There is no way you will ever reach over 4 feet from the outside unless you have an overhead tram to hang from.

[Doneldon]

fmp-

Good questions. You have hit on several of the important considerations when starting into model railroading.

Eight by eight is plenty of space for an HO starter layout, but it does have a significant potential problem: reaching into the middle without damaging things near the edge. The rule of thumb is that no part of a layout should be more than 30" from an edge or access hole. That isn't possible with an eight-foot-square table. However, there are several ways to cope with that problem.

One is to put the layout around the space, with ends which are wide enough for trains to turn back. The connecting layout section can be attached directly to the wall and of limited width, even as narrow as six to twelve inches. This form allows continuous running. Many model railroaders have layouts which don't offer this possibility, the so-called point-to-point, switching or out-and-back plans, but youngsters like to watch their trains run. That pretty much demands some version of a loop. Think of these plans as big letters C or G with wide ends for turning. This form can be a bit faster and cheaper to build, as much of the layout is on a narrow shelf which will need less landscaping and fewer structures compared to a "solid" layout.

A second possible solution is to make an eight by eight doughnut. This will provide good access to the entire layout and simplify wiring a little. The center is a good place for the controls which will give your son the joy of sitting in the middle of his world. However, the space in the middle might be tight for more than one operator which could require a second control outside of the loop. You can do this easily with the DCC system you are considering. The one downside is having to crawl under the layout to get to the middle. That's easy for a child but progressively more challenging for adults as we pile on the years, pounds, aches and pains.

A third option is putting the entire layout around the walls, with a narrow lift-out or swinging section for access. This provides the longest runs and makes the best use of the space because you don't have to plan access around the layout. Your eight by eight plan, if you mean that to be a table or a layout floating away from the walls, will really require more like a 12x12 space, even if the access aisles are only a tight 24" on all four sides. This plan can also save a little time and money, while providing continuous running and lots of options for expansion. It can work surprisingly well around the walls of a child's bedroom if the layout is kept high enough to clear the furniture. That's not a bad idea anyway as model railroads look much more realistic when viewed from eye level rather than as a surveilance satelite sees them.

Your digital commander is a good starter set because you will get lots of trains for the money. The turnout isn't of much value as it is a manual switch which means it must be set by hand. However, you might want a small yard near the control panel where manual switches can be operated conveniently. Do be aware that the Digital Commander does have some important limitations. First, it won't really allow you to program locomotives beyond assigning loco numbers and determining which end is the front. This limitation won't matter much unless you get into sound. The controller can operate a maximum of only ten locomotives. You can have more than ten locomotives but some will need to be kept off of the track or on a track which is electrically isolated from the rest of the layout. Otherwise, you'll have more than one loco at a time following directions from the control panel as well as sapping some of the energy you need to operate the trains which are actually running. Last, it has limited power, enough for two or maybe three locomotives at a time if their trains are short and the locos without sound. You would probably be unable to operate two sound locomotives simultaneously but you could probably manage one sound and one non-sound engine at the same time. You can reduce the electrical drain from passenger and caboose lights by installing battery operated lights but that can be very expensive.

Your set will come with track. If it's the gray roadbed track with nickel-silver rails, and I think it is, it is good track. The 18" radius curves are pretty sharp for anything other than small locos and short to mid-size cars. Go to at least 24" radius if you possibly can. You can either continue with EZTrack or use flex track and non-EZTrack turnouts to supplement the set track. EZTrack remote turnouts will be necessary for remote operation. Flex track will save you some money but you'll lose some of that advantage because you'll have to add roadbed (not difficult) to bring the flex track up to the same elevation as the EZTrack. Be sure to get "Code 100" track if you buy flex track so the rails will line up. And stick to nickel silver for both aesthetic and operational benefits. Also, plan to feed power to your track at least four times, and more if you go sectional track all of the way. DCC likes good available power and sectional track isn't so great for that as every joint is a potential power reducer. And the rails themselves aren't the best conductors of electricity, at least as compared to moderately sized (14- or 16-gauge) copper feeders.

Good luck with your planning and building. Welcome to model railroading.
                                                                                                                 -- D