What Atlas Turnouts for EZ track

[czechwizard]

Hi again, I'd like to use some Atlas turnouts with my Ez track for areas like roundhouses, dead end sidings, etc, with hardly any traffic, just to make it more interesting, more complex, and mainly because they are cheap. Are there any good ? What kind of Atlas turnouts should I use, the best, are the cheapest OK, I suppose Code 100 ? Any "watchout" for electrical issues/insulated gap/frogs - I don't understand that stuff ? I don't see a problem with a roadbed, I'd level that, and the rail joiners are supposedly interchangeable with Bachmann, right, so that the Atlas turnouts easily connect to EZ track ?  I want to use these only manually at the huge yard, though all is DCC.

Also, I've been thinking about venturing into a Walthers Shinohara three-way, or a double crossover, very cool, can I easily connect it to EZ track as well, any electrical problem, if I operate it only manually ?

Thank you in advance, as always.

[jonathan]

CW,

Lot's of questions in one post, but let's cover some generalities.

Since EZtrack is code 100, it's easier to stick with turnouts that are code 100 as well.  You can marry other codes together, but it's a little more work. As you've surmised, with some added roadbed other track brands can easily be connected to EZtrack.

Type's of turnouts?  What are they to be used for?  One can use the inexpensive Atlas snap switches for areas that are more decoration. For instance, you may want a dead end siding or RIP track (repair in place) where you may want a few cars or a locomotive that sits there and won't be used during regular operations.  It's a good idea to gap this track so there is no power getting to the rails.  Then you can park a loco and it won't be turned on while running trains.  I have a couple areas on my layout where rolling stock just sits there for static display.  I used cheapy turnouts in these areas.

If trains will be running through turnouts on a regular basis, you will want to go with the upgraded turnouts.  I happen to like the Atlas Custom Line turnouts, either #6 or #8.  The rails have grooves cut out for the points so there is a smooth transition from the straight route to the divergent route.  Shinohara, Peco and others are great, too.

If you plan to run trains  in and out of your roundhouse, spend the extra bucks for the upgraded turnouts, turntable, etc.  You'll be glad you did.  Bachmann's new turntable appears to be a very nice choice.  If I had the room on my layout, I'd get one of those.  I was forced into the 9" Atlas turntable and can only run small steam and diesels on the turntable.  Works great, but I'm limited by size.  I can live with that.

Powered frogs.  Honestly, I don't power my frogs because I generally run locos with enough pick up so the frog is not an issue.  CNE Runner, and others, who run small layouts with small locomotives need powered frogs to keep their locos running through switching operations.  Again, this will depend on your desires for your layout.

Somewhere I've got pictures of my manual turnouts.  I used some stiff wire for makeshift springs to hold the switches in place.  I only use the finger switch method for easy-to-reach, seldom used areas. I'll post 'em when I find them.  Borrowed that idea from another forum member.

Disclaimer:  these are opinions.  Others will have other opinions.  Ultimately, you will have to decide what works for your layout.

Regards,

Jonathan

[jward]

the atlas snap switches, as with any brand of 18" radius switch, is a known source of trouble. use the #4s instead, you'll br glad you did.

atlas switches don't come with a mechanism to hold the points in position, they are free floating so you'll need to invest in some hand throws such as those made by caboose industries. if you need to power the frogs, use the hand throws with contacts. they cost slightly more, and are harder to install, but worth it.

other than that, atlas has done a good job over the years of upgrading their switches. they are now one of the better brands on the market.

[czechwizard]

So # 8 is the best, smoothest turnout available, right, what's the radius, by the way, and # 6, the Code 100 Custom Line ? I like this one, though, HO Code 100 Mark IV #6 Right-Hand Turnout (ATL284), the price is cool as well
at Phil's Hobby Shop Price: $13.49. If I switch it manually, is it ready right out of the box, without any "switching machine", to use for my unbuilt, still boxed Walthers Diesel House ? How about the 3-way Shinohara for that ?

[jward]

the mark iv should fit your needs.

#6 is 12" long on the straight side
#4 is 9" long on the straight side.
#8 is 15" long on the straight side.

as for the curved side, none of them have a constant curve, but the equivalent cirve for even a #4 is something like 22"r  or 24"r. the #6 and #8 curves are larger than anything you can buy, and should be able to handle any locomotives you may have.

you will have to supply your own method of holding the points in position. i believe this is also true of the shinoharas as well. that is why i suggested the caboose hand throws in the first place.

which switch you use will be determined by how much room you have. for an engine house i'd use the #4 or #6 and keep the #8s out on the mainline where trains will be moving fast.

[czechwizard]

thanks an oodle

[czechwizard]

"you will have to supply your own method of holding the points in position"

just a little confirmation, so the points will not stay in position if I move it with my finger ? Or isn't it enough just to move the points with my finger, do you mean it won't be "safe, static" when the train passes and therefore it may derail, or is the track stable, no derailments, or do I have to buy the hand throws ?

[jward]

to clarify:

you can move the points by hand, but they won't be "lined and locked" to use the railroaders term. the points can and do drift open under a train. it really doesn't matter much what method you use to keep them from drifting, but the hand throws are an inexpensive proven way to do the job. atlas also makes manual switch machines that do the same thing, but they are not included with the mark iv.....

[Joe323]

to clarify:

you can move the points by hand, but they won't be "lined and locked" to use the railroaders term. the points can and do drift open under a train. it really doesn't matter much what method you use to keep them from drifting, but the hand throws are an inexpensive proven way to do the job. atlas also makes manual switch machines that do the same thing, but they are not included with the mark iv.....

This is what happens to bachmann turnouts.  Is there a brand of turnout that comes out of the box lined & locked already built in or must it always be added.

[czechwizard]

sorry, I've been just dealing with EZ track, that's why I keep "bothering or asking you", ok, now I've got it, thanks, and what are the other methods to line and lock the points so that they not drift under the train, any really amateurish way, how much space in inches do I need for the hand throw and the standard manual switch machine, imagine the turnouts will lead into a three stall Walthers Diesel engine house, and all the three Ez tracks are parallel with practically no space in between, could I install them quite apart, how do they work ? 

[jward]

joe,

peco has an internal spring that locks the points in either position.

czech,

the caboose industries hand throws i've been using have contacts. they are about 1.25 inches overall. the ones without contacts are smaller, and you should be able to use them on tracks spaced on 2" centerlines. the atlas manual machines are designed to be used where tracks are on 2" centerlines. you really don't want your tracks closer together than that.

another method you could try is to make an over center spring out of a piece of brass wire. this would be a v shaped boece of wire, with the ends bent downward 90 degrees and fitted into holes in the throwbar and a nearby tie.  the vee should be spread at an angle where the wire is slightly compressed when inserted into the holes. this is similar to the peco internal spring. not sure how you'd keep the wire from popping out of the holes as it has to rotate freely on the holes.

[jonathan]

Here are the pics of the steel spring method I mentioned previously.  I did not invent this.  Use a stiff piece of steel wire.  Experiment with bending it to fit in the holes in the picture.  When you get the length and bend just right, the wire acts like a spring to hold the points against the rails.  You can operate the switch with a gentle finger movement.

Regards,

Jonathan

[czechwizard]

wow, really nice, this looks like skyrocket science, but it may be not, I'll see what I'll do when I do

[jward]

paint that spring black and you won't notice it.