EZ-Track vs Atlas Snap track

[BlueFox]

I'm going to rip up all the brass track on a 4x8 layout table that was given to me and re-track it with either EZ-Track or Atlas Snap track.

I need an honest opinion on which I should use (I'm leaning towards EZ-Track for now.)

While I'm at it I plan on extending the 8' long side outward about 1 1/2 ft so I can use larger radius curves, 28" and 26" radius.

Frank

[jonathan]

Frank,

I find a combination of various tracks works best for me.  Opinions vary.  I use Atlas and EZ track.  Both work fine.  The Atlas flex track is very handy.  Sometimes EZ track solved certain strength problems, due to the permanent roadbed.

Things that don't work fine:  #4 turnouts.  I have used them, and gotten to them to work, but given the option, I would rip up my few small turnouts and install larger ones.  Most of my turnouts our Atlas Custom #6, both code 83 and code 100.  They work very well.  Don't know about long term as my layout is not quite 5 years old.  Some swear by the Peco or Shinohara track products.  Haven't tried them, yet.

By the way, don't toss out the brass track.  With some cleaning brass track works great, too.  I used some old brass track in selected areas on my layout; yards mostly.  I did it for sentimental reasons; it was my grandfather's.  Some of it is Rocco... now that's old! Trains do not hesitate or slow down going over the brass, as long as you clean it every now and then.  Once the track is weathered, can't tell the difference visually.

In short, use whatever you have, as well as getting new track of both products.  As long as you have clean track and plenty of feeders, it will all work well.  There's one opinion, anyway.

Regards,

Jonathan

[jward]

the atlas track has several distinct advantagesover eztrack, provided you use the atlas track without roadbed.

1. track switches are much more compact. the straight track sections are of lengths which can easily be matched using available track lengths. and they are designed to make crossovers and yards with tracks on 2" centers.  this means you can have a bigger yard in the same space as ez track.

2. there is a huge variety of pieces available. #4, #6, #8 switches, curves in 15" (not recommended) 18" 22" and 24" radii. crossings with angles from 12.5 degrees to 90 degrees. several of the crossings are designed to work with the #4 and #6 switches.

3. available in code 83, a more realistic rail size.

4. flexible track matches right up to atlas track without shimming.

5. the atlas layout plan and wiring books. atlas has a whole series, bachmann only has one.

6. the switch motors come in several configurations, and can be mounted under the table. other makes such as tortoise can be used with atlas without modification.

that said, why choose one or the other. you can get the best of both worlds by using the 26r and 28r curves of ez track with the atlas switches and crossings by shimming the atlas track to meet the ez track height with cork roadbed  or 1/4" flat moulding strip.

one thing i cannot stress enough no matter which brand you choose: stay away from the standard 18r switch. these will cause you nightmares trying to back trains through them, especially in a yard or crossover formation. atlas #4s take up only a little more room, and work much better in these situations.

one final note: as the previous poster said, you can salvage your brass track. i wouldn't use it on the mainlines, but on the ends of sidings and yard tracks where your locomotives don't usually venture, it works as well as anything else.

[Jhanecker2]

Since I have  E-Z track , Power-Lok track , and Atlas Code 100 track available for use ,  each has its pors & cons. The two roadbed tracks are fine for mainlines but the Atlas is easier to use  for Yards and terminals that don't require the elevation .  Also tracks can be closer together without the interfereance of roadbeds . Using flex track allows you to customize your radiuses & lengths  with fewer connections . J2.

[rogertra]

Niether.

Use flex track.

[Doneldon]

Foxy-

Assuming that money is an object, as it is for most of us, flex track with quality turnouts (Shinohara is my choice) is the most economical unless you want to handlay your rails. Cork roadbed works just fine and looks decent until you get a chance to add more realistic ballast. It's easy to grade down to lower ballast areas or yards and you can curve it at will. Just make sure to take the angle of the shoulder off of the cork before you lay ballast. You might want to consider going with Code 83 or even Code 70 rail for mainlines, with smaller rail for sidings, branch lines and yards. That improves the appearance of the track and lets you give visual cues about the purpose of the track. This won't necessarily work for old timers who have a ton of equipment with oversize flanges but the smaller rail is fine if your equipment is of recent vintage or you've updated everything.
                                                        -- D