Overland Limited Problem

[asuheels]

Guys,

Our Overland Limited train will not move.  The headlight works, so I know there is power, but the train will not budge.  I check all of my track connections.  Could there be a short in the DCC or power cord?  Any help is greatly appreciated.

[ACY]

The train does not have a DCC decoder so if you are using a DCC system then that is your problem. Otherwise it sounds like the loco could have something jammed or broken which is preventing it from moving or the loco needs lubed & cleaned and the track may need cleaned, but with only that limited info it is hard to say anything for sure.

[asuheels]

Sorry, it does not have a DCC.  Just confused on that particular item.  It has the normal power pack/speed controller.

[jonathan]

asuheels,

A couple of things come to mind.  Let's assume for the moment you don't have a mechanical problem.  I say this because you did not mention a "hum" that you would hear if the motor were trying to turn but could not due to a binding somewhere.

My first check would be the plugs that connect the tender to the locomotive.  If they are not completely seated (plugged in all the way), it would be possible to get current to the headlight but not the motor.

Second, I would turn over the tender and listen for a small rattle.  While your locomotive is DC, it probably has one or two dummy plugs in a receptacle in the tender.  The separately sold 4-8-4s are DCC equipped and have a decoder in the tender.  I suspect your tender has the receptacle but not decoder.  That dummy plug, or plugs could be loose on one side, allowing the headlight to work but not the motor.  Sounds unlikely I know, but stranger things have happended.

I always check the bronze or brass colored wipers that touch the back of the driver wheels.  These are the most sensitive part of the locomotive, and are the most likely of parts to be bent or damaged in shipping.  It does happen sometimes that the wipers get caught in the spokes and won't allow the wheels to turn.  It takes a few minutes of gently persuasion to get these straightened out, using a tweezers and jewelers screwdriver.

Doesn't sound likely, but you could also check to make sure one of the tender trucks hasn't spun around backwards.  If that were the case, you probably wouldn't get a lit headlight either.

Did you remove ALL the foam packing around the lead and trailing trucks on the locomotive?  Easy to miss.

Just a couple of ideas for you.

Regards,

Jonathan

[asuheels]

Thank you for the suggestions.  I will check thes out.  The train is only been used for six months.  No, I did not hear a hum of the motor.  But, if I pressed down lightly on the top of the locomotive, the wheels would spin for a second or two.  Does this give anyone other ideas as to the potential problem?

[ACY]

asuheels,
My first check would be the plugs that connect the tender to the locomotive.  If they are not completely seated (plugged in all the way), it would be possible to get current to the headlight but not the motor.

Second, I would turn over the tender and listen for a small rattle.  While your locomotive is DC, it probably has one or two dummy plugs in a receptacle in the tender.  The separately sold 4-8-4s are DCC equipped and have a decoder in the tender.  I suspect your tender has the receptacle but not decoder.  That dummy plug, or plugs could be loose on one side, allowing the headlight to work but not the motor.  Sounds unlikely I know, but stranger things have happended.

Doesn't sound likely, but you could also check to make sure one of the tender trucks hasn't spun around backwards.  If that were the case, you probably wouldn't get a lit headlight either.

None of these quoted above are possible because the locomotive in the set does not have tender pick-up nor does it have anything in the tender. There is no dummy plug or 8 pin socket for that matter. The tender trucks on ones I have seen and the one I have are plastic. There are no plugs that connect the tender. This is just a basic line loco, it is not like the Spectrum/Plus or DCC steam locos that Bachmann has.

[ACY]

How long have you had this locomotive and when was the last time it ran?

[asuheels]

The train was purchased Dec. 2010.  It last ran in May.  It is a basic Bachmann train set. 

[ACY]

I would try cleaning it. You know how to, right?

[asuheels]

All I have used to clean the track is a damp soft cloth. 

[ACY]

All I have used to clean the track is a damp soft cloth. 

That may not be good. Use a track eraser such as a brite-boy or use a non-fibrous cloth, if you want to wet it, you can dampen it with track cleaning fluid, but do not use water as it can make it rust and won't clean it as well.

[asuheels]

ACY,

Thanks for the help.

[Doneldon]

asu-

The fact that your locomotive worked for six months and then failed makes your problem very different from that of a loco which didn't work from the start. The fact that you get some reaction when you press down on the loco adds to the picture. To me, it most likely adds up to dirty track and/or (probably and) wheels. I suggest that you use a Brite Boy track cleaner or something like it. These look very much like an ink eraser, i.e., a course version of a pencil eraser. If you don't have one you can use the finest ScotchBrite pad you can find or extremely fine (600 or finer) wet or dry sandpaper. It would be a good idea to add a tiny bit of conducting oil on the track once it is clean. Do not use steel wool under any circumstance and do not use any kind of course abrasive. Steel wool may well ruin your loco and course abrasives will clean fast but leave tiny scratches which will quickly collect dirt in the future.

Locomotive wheels are harder to clean. You can use the same materials you used on your rails but it will be tougher to do because you'll have to give the loco little pops of power to gain access to the entire circumference. Do not try to force the wheels to turn. You can make it easier if you remove the loco's shell and disconnect the motor from the drive gear but that's usually more hassle than it's worth.

I suggest that you also look at the wheels on your rolling stock. I'm not familiar with your set but I know that most set trains have more basic models and that often means plastic wheels. Those will dirty your track much faster than metal wheels. Please keep in mind that I'm talking explicitly about the wheels, not the material used for the rest of the truck.

I don't see how you could have any kind of a short or reversed tender trucks because the headlight wouldn't work and your power pack would shut itself down for safety. You could have a loose jumper on the decoder socket. I'd check that if cleaning the rails and wheels doesn't help. It would be faster to check the jumpers but you probably need to clean your track anyway so you won't be doing unnecessary cleaning. And Jonathan's suggestion that you inspect the wheel wipers is a good one. Your problem could be no more serious than that. Clean your track anyway. It definitely needs it if you've been running trains on it for six months.

Good luck with your trains and welcome to the hobby.
                                                                                              -- D

[asuheels]

Doneldon,

Thank you so much for the welcome and advice.  I will purchase a Brite Boy and clean the track and wheels.  Yes, the cars have plastic wheels and I have slowly started to change them over to metal wheels.  Can I use a toothbrush to clean the wheels (soft brush)? 

ASU

[jward]

amuch better way to clean crud buildup off the wheels is to lay the blade of a small screwdriver against the wheel tread and turn the wheel by hand. the crud will peel off as you turn the wheels.