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Sprung trucks

Started by captain1313, May 09, 2011, 04:24:04 AM

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captain1313

OK...here's a question for the old timers.  What are the pros and cons of using sprung trucks.  I seem to have more problems with them the non sprung.  Thanks to all.

CNE Runner

Ahoy Captain - I am old enough to remember when every kit came with trucks that had to be assembled...including those pesky springs (and I had excellent vision then AND could get down to, and up from, the floor when one of them when 'sailing' off). With good track, there is little difference between solid bolsters and sprung units. With a little dry-brushing, the solid bolsters can look as 'realistic' as those having tiny springs...which only eagles can see at any distance. [My comments assume you are running cars and not displaying them.]

If I have the occasion to replace entire trucks, I always do so with Kadee sprung units. Of more importance is the change from plastic wheelsets to metal. Not only does one hear that nice 'clackity-clack' sound (with metal wheels); but the track will stay cleaner longer.

If you need to replace one, or more, of the truck springs a neat trick is to thread a piece of thread, through the spring, while you compress it enough to fit between the 'nubs' in the bolster. With the spring threaded, it can't go anywhere should you miss the nubs or the tweezers slip off the spring. Micro Mark sells a special tool for these, and coupler, springs...I don't have one nor have ever used same.

Good luck Matey,
Ray
"Keeping my hand on the throttle...and my eyes on the rail"

ebtnut

The advantage to sprung trucks is equalization.  Assuming the cars are weighted to NMRA RP's, the springs allow the sideframes to rock a bit independent of each other, helping minimize problems with track that is slightly irregular.  In most all cases, the springs are too stiff to actually act like the prototype springs.  Same with the springs in most sprung locos.  As noted, if your track is square and level, and the wheels are at NMRA specs, it usually doesn't matter much whether or not you use sprung trucks or solid bolsters. 

captain1313

Thanks for the replies.  I've been slowly replacing with metal wheels as operating budget permits.  I totally agree about those plastic wheels that seam to gunk up with all those mystery compounds.   I bought some cars with sprung trucks from an estate sale so I don't know how old they are but do the springs get weak?  2 of the cars seem to derail at turnouts 90% of the time.  Of course now that I said that maybe I sure check the couplers. (duh).  I think also one of them might be a little off balance (to the starboard side.....had to get that boating reference in there).

Kevin

Doneldon

cap'n-

The most likely coupler matter is the "brake hose" hanging too low. It should be 1/64" above the railhead. Also check your wheels for gauge. Sometimes they'll do just fine on regular track but being slightly proud or shy can cause trouble at turnouts.

                                                                                                                    -- D

jward

my experience has also been mixed with sprung trucks. i have found that any equalization advantage inherent with sprung trucks can usually be had with solid frame trucks by simply loosening the bolster screws. i have found that many modellers overtighten these bolster screws, and don't allow enough "yaw" in the trucks. backing off the screws a quarter to a half turn usually solves this problem.
Jeffery S Ward Sr
Pittsburgh, PA

Johnson Bar Jeff

Of course we all want to do all we can to keep our rolling stock "yare."  ;)

Doneldon

I use sprung trucks exclusively although I have to admit that I'm not so sure they make a huge difference on our little trains that weigh only a few ounces. I do it because it's my "standard" to do so, just like weighting rolling stock, using Kadees, doing routine maintenance, etc. On the other hand, I'm sure sprung trucks don't cause any problems and I know that metal wheels make a world of difference operationally and with track/wheel cleanliness.
                                                                                                                -- D

captain1313

Well....the hose hose height was OK......the wheels looked in gauge.......sooooo.......I changed out the wheels sets on the offending truck anyway...........low and behold..........no more derailments.  I'd better get a few more packs.  Anyplace to get wheels sets in bulk of 100?   Thanks to all for the tips.

Kevin

BestSnowman

Quote from: captain1313 on May 10, 2011, 10:50:24 PM
Well....the hose hose height was OK......the wheels looked in gauge.......sooooo.......I changed out the wheels sets on the offending truck anyway...........low and behold..........no more derailments.  I'd better get a few more packs.  Anyplace to get wheels sets in bulk of 100?   Thanks to all for the tips.

Kevin

Yes, you can buy metal wheels in bulk from various vendors but you need to be aware that not all wheelsets fit all trucks. In addition to wheel size (such as 31", 33", and 36" to name a few) the length of the needle points can vary. I've found Bachmann's 33" sets (http://www.bachmanntrains.com/home-usa/products.php?act=viewProd&productId=2210) have fit a lot of the trucks I've owned but run into trucks that require longer and shorter trucks.

As an example I recently bought a Kadee cushion underframe boxcar that won't fit any of my existing metal wheelsets. Because of this my recommendation would be to survey what type of stock have before you buy them in bulk so you don't end up with a bunch of wheels that don't fit.

As for bulk packaging, I've seen the bulk packages but it's more common to see the smaller packages (like the ones Bachmann sells). You could check to see if your local hobby store will order a case and sell it at or near wholesale (or at the very least some level of discount).
-Matthew Newman
My Layout Blog

Doneldon

cap'n-

I have been very pleased with Intermountain metal wheelsets. Virtually all are in gauge when I check them and they seem to work in just about anybody's trucks. I put them on all of my rolling stock except the cars with Central Valley trucks. You can buy these in 12-, 20- and 100-packs. The 100-packs are significantly cheaper and you'd be surprised how fast 100 wheelsets can disappear. It's only about a dozen cars' worth.

You don't have to discard wheelsets just because they're out of gauge. You can spread or tighten them by pushing in or pulling out on the wheels at the same time that you twist them a little. The only way this can go wrong is if you get the wheels to the correct gauge but with both wheels shifted towards the same end of the axle. That can cause the trucks to pull to the side and derail. If you find that you have moved both wheels away from being relatively banaced left to right, just readjust them.

Do make certain to use the same size replacement wheels. This was a little easier a few years ago when most freight cars had 33" wheels and passenger cars had 36" wheels, but you can find replacement wheels in any size you need.
                                                                                                                              -- D

K487

Kevin:

I've been HO model railroading for over 30 years, and when I've bought used cars from time to time some of them had sprung trucks under them.  It didn't take long for me throw everyone of them away as soon as I got them off the cars.  Why?

Well, they do look okay BUT the HO car body/truck weight ratio is nothing like on real railroads (so the sprung trucks are not needed), and I found that often when one corner of the sprung truck was raised up (thereby raising its wheel) due to track conditions or ??? it did NOT come back down - it got stuck in its "up" position and obviously caused a derailment.  I'm guessing this was due to tight truck pieces' clarances and/or not enough lube and/or the springs were too stiff (or all of the above).

Since the non-sprung trucks worked fine (after inspection, cleaning, gauging the wheels, etc.) I didn't want to spend time fooling with the sprung trucks, so out they've went - every one of them.

DougC

captain1313

K487
I think I'm with you on this one.  Even after changing wheels sets they still derail.....just less.  Even if it is the track or turnouts none of my other rolling stock acts like these do.

Kevin