ez track sizes

[erp52]

I want to set up a track layout on a 42 inch round table.  What track size should I use?  I'm not familiar with the various sizes out there 15 inch, 18 inch, 22 inch.  Whew!  Thanks for any info,   Ed

[ACY]

You cannot use 22" radius, as the table is not wide enough. You probably should not use 18" radius becuase there will only be a little more than 2" between the track and the edge of the table, so if it were to derail your loco would probably take a spill and die. If you have any cars longer than 40' or steam locomotives that have any pilot or trailing wheels or more than 6 small drive wheels or diesels with 6 axles or more then you can't use 15" radius. So, hopefully you have a small 4 axle diesel, 0-4-0 or 0-6-0 and no cars more than 40' in length so you can use 15: radius.

[Joe Satnik]

Dear Ed,

2" is plenty of space if there is some kind of fence on the edge of the table.   Go for the 18"R.

Hope this helps.

Sincerely, 

Joe Satnik

[Jim Banner]

I like mountain railroading - bridges, tunnels and precipitous slopes.  If the scenery starts just beyond the ends of the ties and includes some retaining walls with the outer ends of the ties actually sitting on top of the walls, it heightens drama and increases the feeling of man against nature with man barely winning.  This has caused very few problems over the years.  In fact, the only loss in 25 years was a caboose that derailed and fell off a 2" wide girder bridge and landed coupler end first on a concrete floor five feet below.  That accident cost one Kadee coupler and a dab of glue.

Based on this experience, I would quite happily use 20" radius on a 42" round table but 18" radius would allow you to use E-Z Track and run a large variety of cars and locomotives.  The 18 radius would give you 3 full inches between the track centre line and the table edge which is twice what I use in similar situations and about four times what I use where I want to add a bit of drama.  If you are worried about cars rolling sideways off the track and sliding off the table, add a fence as Joe suggests or just add some foam bushes or hedges.  The foam will stop cars dead and keep them from sliding.  If you are still worried, keep your train speeds down below about 60 scale miles per hour (smph) and make sure your trackwork is in great to perfect condition.  I like to run about 30 to 40 smph which is pretty typical for tough mountain railroading but I run even slower if the trains are 30 or 40 cars long.  My ultimate test for trackwork is to run a 10 car train backwards around the layout in both directions at 60 to 80 smph.  This shows up bad joints, out of gauge rails, and twisted track real quick.  More importantly, it encourages me to do all the preliminary testing very carefully!

If your table is the typical 28-30 inches high and is sitting on a carpeted floor, there is very little danger of damaging cars even if they do derail.  Locomotives will normally survive too but might need a few small parts glued back on.

Jim

[erp52]

Thanks guys, for info.  Sounds like the l8 inch e-z track is my best choice.   Ed

[Johnson Bar Jeff]

Thanks guys, for info.  Sounds like the l8 inch e-z track is my best choice.   Ed

If this is to be a "non-permanent" layout, you won't be disappointed by the 18-inch EZ track. Keep your train speed low--more fun to watch the train roll by that way anyway. I'm in a similar situation, using a table that's even a little narrower than your 42-inch diameter, and I've never had a piece of rolling stock take a dive to the floor. Cover the table with some kind of cloth before you put down your track. Felt works good; I use an old green flannel sheet.

[Doneldon]

erp-

I vote for 20" curves made with flex track, and a little edge protection. Those extra inches will let you step up in size a little bit and you won't be facing any track compatibility problems because you can't run switches inside of 20" curves. Well, maybe there are some curved switches which would work - I haven't checked - but you'd have to start going to very tight curves inside and the curved switches would be without roadbed anyway. This will also be significantly cheaper. Put some foam or cork roadbed right arounf the edge (following the plan shouldn't be too hard!) for a little sound control.

I'd probably do some nice scenery in the middle, on a piece of 36" diameter plywood so I could take it off during the holidays, remove the table legs and use the layout as the base of a Christmas tree layout. Assuming that's one of your holidays, of course. Or leave the legs on if you just erect a smaller table-size tree.

Whatever you do, good luck and, as the Bman says, "Have fun."
                                                                                                         -- D

[Johnson Bar Jeff]

I'd probably do some nice scenery in the middle, on a piece of 36" diameter plywood so I could take it off during the holidays, remove the table legs and use the layout as the base of a Christmas tree layout. Assuming that's one of your holidays, of course. Or leave the legs on if you just erect a smaller table-size tree.

I think that's a neat idea. Aside from holiday use, it would allow for "a change of scenery" from time to time to help keep things interesting.