Help for a Newbie

[beerman]

I just purchased my first train set - a Bachmann DCC set with two locomotives.  I have two questions that I've not seen in the forum.  First, I have a crossover and turnouts which have green wires to hook up to an electric switch.  Where does the power come from to operate these switches?  I see no way to connect the red wires to my DCC controler.  Second, I see there are #5 turnouts and #6 turnouts.  What is the difference between these turnouts?  Thanks in advance for the help.  My grandson will be here tomorrow for a visit and I can't wait to show him "our" train set.   

[jward]

to answer your questions:

i don't believe the ez command has a place to power your switches. the usual method is to connect the ac terminals of a dc power pack to the switch control boxes (2 wires) then run the 3 wires from the switch control box to the switches they control.

the difference between a number 5 and a number 6 is in the sharpness of the angle at the frog (where the rails cross) with the number 6 having a shallower angle and thus being longer overall. the number is a ratio of the number of units forward (inches, cm, whatever) needed for the rails to spread  1 unit. thus a number 5 would need 5 units forward to spread the rails 1 unit.

[Doneldon]

beerman-

Welcome to model railroading and this Board. I believe you'll find this to be an interesting and, at times, challenging pasttime.

The EZ DCC controller has no output for accessories. You can use the accessory fixed voltage terminals of a standard (non-DCC) power pack or any old wall wart you might have sitting around, perhaps from a radio or cell phone. You can use either AC or DC. You'll want a 14 volt, give or take, output and at least 500 ma. Just cut the plug off of the wall wart transformer, strip the wires and connect them to the power point on the electrical switches for your turnouts. You can line the switches up so you only need one power source for a whole line of electrical switches. If you use a surplus power pack, cut the plug off of the red wire, strip the wires and attach them to the terminals on the power pack. You can also cut the plugs off of both the wall wart cable and red wires, strip the ends and join the wires together. That can be handy if you need a little extra length from the wall receptacle. Be sure to make physically strong and well insulated connections

Note that you can reverse the operation of your remote turnouts by disconnecting the three-conductor controller wire, turning it over and plugging it back in.

I look forward to more posts from you and even photos as you make progress on your miniature empire.
                                                                                                                                                          -- D

[beerman]

Thanks for all the help and advice.  I'm enjoying getting started with the hobby and I want to get my track completely layed out and then start on the scenery and buildings.  I'm sure I'll have more questions.  Thanks again.

[Joe Satnik]

Beerman,

I have a DC power pack (controller and wal-wart) set which includes 16 VAC 1 amp accessories terminals.

http://www.bachmanntrains.com/home-usa/products.php?act=viewProd&productId=209

Send a personal message for details by clicking on my name to the left.

Joe

[Doneldon]

beerman-

Your planning is right on target. You want to have your track laid and bullet proof before you start scenery. You can set buildings and whatever around temporarily so it's more fun to run trains in the meantime but don't do anything permanent until you know you won't have to be working on the tracks. The only exception to that is changing elevation. You have to fix your grades and levels before you lay track permanently.

                                                                                                                -- D

[jward]

to add to what don just said, if you have tracks that are going to go underneath other tracks, or buried in tunnels, you need to have them working perfectly before you cover them over. build from the bottom up, laying your lowest levels first. it is very difficult to lay track or fix trouble spots if you have little room to work.

[Tedshere]

Hey _ _D,  Thanks for the more specific explanation of what a "Wall-Wart is. I had seen them mentioned in other threads but never knew what they were. Like you mentioned, I have a bunch in a box from old razors, computer add-ons, clock-radios and the like. But didn't know there was even a name for them. Just that the directions with the appliance always says not to use a different one.
    I wonder if using a separate supply would help the turnouts open and close more completely ???

[Doneldon]

Ted-

I don't know that "wall wart" is a technical term. I think it's just something people use to identify those little transformers that seem to come with everything you buy nowadays.

The nature of the electrical supply shouldn't matter to the turnouts as long as the power is within the turnouts' requirement. You should have about 14 volts and at least .5 amps (500 ma). The exception would be if you are trying to throw several turnouts at a time, such as when you are lining a series of turnouts so a train can make its way out of a yard. Then you might want a capacitive discharge system. CD systems "store" up the electricity and then release it in a very fast burst. CD units can be purchased all ready to go, or you can make one. This Australian company has a kit with a custom board and everything. It's reasonably priced and the service is very fast; you'll have you merchandise within a week.

                                    http://talkingelectronics.com/
                                                                                                                    -- D