0-6-0T locomotive performance

[robmik43]

I have just joined your forum, it looks very good.
I have a question or two regarding the new Spectrum 0-6-0 saddletank tank loco I just received.
It is Item 81811, a nice little unit.
The instructions advise that it can be run on DCC or DC.
I run only conventional DC.
It runs quite smoothly in 'reverse' [ cab ahead], but very jerkily in forward [boiler ahead].
Is this probably a case where a lengthy break-in period is needed, or could it have to do with the DCC possibly interfering with the DC ? If I need to get in and disconnect the DCC, I'd appreciate some instructions for this.
Thanks and best regards.

[ACY]

Try thoroughly breaking in the locomotive first.

[jonathan]

I run mine on DC.  Yes, it was a little jerky at first.  It smoothed out after running it awhile.  I suspect a little extra weight would help with rail contact.  I haven't tried adding weight, so far.

Check the bronze pick up brushes that rub against the drive wheels.  I had a couple that needed a little adjustment to make good contact.

Regards,

Jonathan

[robmik43]

Thanks for the replies.
The 'run-in approach' didn't work, I also tried pulling and pushing the 0-6-0 back and forth with an MDT switcher. ( I only have a 12 foot long switching layout).This did prove there was no binding, the 0-6-0 wheels were turning fine.
I did try lightly increasing the tension of the copper wipers, but this only improved forward smoothness for a couple of minutes, then the same jerkiness returned.
I expect it is a wiper-contact issue, there seems to be a lot of sideplay in the wheelsets.....but this doesn't affect reverse movement. I am going to ask Walthers for a return authorization number and hopefully send the unit back for replacement.

[ACY]

In order to break it in, you need to run it on a figure 8 or regular oval in both directions, you cannot do it on a straight/switch layout.

[jonathan]

If it is indeed a contact issue,  here are a couple of photos to help your decision whether to send in your loco:


This is the bottom plate that holds the contact wipers.  I took the bottom off and spread a couple of wipers that weren't making contact on my loco.  This helped a great deal. The screw under the steam chest does not need to be removed, unless you plan to remove the shell.


This is what the wheel assembly looks like without the bottom plate.


All back together.

It's a personal choice, but I tend to want to tinker and adjust before I decide to return any loco or piece of rolling stock.
Regards,

Jonathan

[robmik43]

Once again, thanks for the responses.

Jonathon...thank you for the time and trouble in taking and posting the extremely helpful photos and comments. If my current 'running-in' attempt does not solve the problem, I will give your method a try, it may well be the solution to all this.

ACY..thanks for the comment, but we switching layout guys can 'run-in' an engine.
What you do is drive a 1" finishing nail on the centerline of your track, hook the coupler to it, power it up, and let the wheels spin..I've had the little 0-6-0 on that for the last half hour, and it seems to be making a difference.

[Doneldon]

rm43-

Contrary to an earlier post, you can break in a locomotive by running it back and forth. It helps if there are some curves; even short ones on a shipping layout will do. Of course, it goes more quickly and without constant attention on a continuous run. But if you are willing to spend the time, an hour or so, running your loco back and forth on your switching layout it will get broken in just fine.

FOR ANYONE WHO'S READING THIS: Why are we so careful to call track switches "turnouts" and electrical controls for turnouts "switches" when we call switching layouts "switching layouts" but not "turnouting layouts?" Or am I just picking a fight?
                                                                                                                            -- D

[robmik43]

Engine now runs fine.
The break-in method seemed to work OK, but the next morning, [today]  the jerky movement was back.
I took Jonathan's advice, removed the plate, spread the wipers, and operation was fine after re-assembly. Note..one of the contact shoes that connect the wiper strips to the motor was off-center about 10 degrees, and I straightened this out.
Thanks one again.