Returnee to MRR has some basic EZ track, DCC, and turnout questions?

[Chazzlee]

Am returning to MRR hobby after many decades away from childhood Lionel..;>})
And I've now got me the basic EZ Com controller, also an extra DC jump throttle,
to use with one DC-only and two DCC locomotives. Am now in the process of
setting up just a simple test oval with EZ track, but would also like to add a
siding or two fairly soon...

So, what turnouts would folks here recommend? What do y'all mostly use? I see
Amazon has the EZ DCC turnouts on sale and I'm wondering whether
to go with two of those to use with the EZ DCC controller, or go with Atlas or
Peco DCC friendly turnouts and wire them with separate toggle switches?
What's the general feelings re the pros and cons of these different turnouts?

Also, what about EZ manual turnouts? Will they work okay with EZ DCC powered trackage without special gaps and/or wiring needed?

And one more question?  -if I want to use code 100 flex track with  EZ nickel silver track, would cork roadbed bring the flex track up to the right height to match with the EZ's gray plastic roadbed stuff?  And if not, what's a good pre-fab roadbed that would?

Thanks for any assistance here,
Chazzlee ;>})

[jward]

the biggest pieces of advice regarding  track layout are these:

1. avoid having two curves of opposite direction connecting directly to each other. this is a common cause of derailments when using scale model trains like the ones you have. the rule pf thumb is to place a straight at least as long as your longest car between the two curves. as a practical matter, in most cases a full 9" straight between the curves will be sufficient.

2. use the numbered turnouts, stay away from the "remote" or "manual" ones that come with the train sets. this is especially true if you intend to back into sidings to pick up and drop off cars. the ones to stay away from are the ones with the 18" radius curved side, it doesn't matter which manufacturer they come from they are too sharp to back into reliably. stick with the #4, #5, #6 or #8 ones. use the higher numbers if you are running long locomotives and cars.
the higher the number the gentler the curved route.  note: two numbered turnouts can be placed together to form a crossover between parallel trackswithout a straight between them. the curves are gentle enough that they don't fal under rule 1....

[mabloodhound]

Also, on the flex track, cork or homabed  (http://www.homabed.com/) will bring you track up close to the correct level.   It may require some card shims or sanding near the joint to get it perfect.

[Doneldon]

Chazz-

I would advise you (just an opinion here, the same as any other response you will receive) to stay with one brand of track. It probably doesn't matter a whole lot which brand; I just mean that you won't run into compatibility problems if you stay with one brand. In any event, it is important to stay with one track size unless you are prepared to deal with the obvious incompatibility of, for example, using Code 100 rail on the same layout with Code 70. (Code refers to the height of the rail in hundredths of an inch.)

Twelve inches to the foot railroads certainly use several rail sizes on their "pikes," so different track sizes are prototypical. But it's easier, at least in the beginning stages of the hobby, to stay with just one size. It's your choice what that size is. Code 100 comes with most train sets and is the most widely used today, even after decades of quality track being available in more prototypical sizes. Code 70 is actually pretty close to scale for what is commonly used by the big boys but some folks find that its small size interferes with smooth operation unless it is flawless and the wheels rolling on it have small enough flanges not to hit the ties. Code 83 is a pretty good compromise for scale and operations. But, and this is critically important, it is entirely up to you.

There is also the question of rail material. In HO you can choose between brass, steel and nickel-silver. I urge you to go with NS. Brass oxidizes rapidly and that oxidation interferes with wheels' ability to pick up electricity. Steel has rust problems, of course, the analogue to brass oxidation. NS isn't as good as a conductor as is brass but its more limited oxidation doesn't cause electrical pick up problems.

Whether you use remote control turnouts or manual ones is largely a matter of personal preference and whether the turnouts are conveniently located for manual control. There are also cost and wiring considerations but these are pretty minor if you're only thinking of a couple of turnouts.
                                                                                                           -- D

[jward]

the compatability problems doneldon is referring to would be between different makes of track with roadbed. there are 3 i can think of, ez track, power lock, and atlas true track. all of them have different methods of connecting together, and cannot be used with each other. there may be adaptor pieces out there which would allow mixing of brands. the atlas true track also uses a smaller rail size (code 83) than the others (code 100).....

if you go with the much cheaper track without the roadbed, this compatability problem is largely absent as long as you use the same rail size throughout. you can connect a peco switch to atlas or model power track for example with no problems. the only thing you'd want to watch for are "dcc friendly" switches. most manufacturers who make them take pains to let you know they are "dcc friendly"....... another advantage to using this type of track are the huge variety of pieces available, and the flexible track you can use for situations where there is no appropriate piece available.

[Chazzlee]

the compatability problems doneldon is referring to would be between different makes of track with roadbed. there are 3 i can think of, ez track, power lock, and atlas true track. all of them have different methods of connecting together, and cannot be used with each other. there may be adaptor pieces out there which would allow mixing of brands. the atlas true track also uses a smaller rail size (code 83) than the others (code 100).....

if you go with the much cheaper track without the roadbed, this compatability problem is largely absent as long as you use the same rail size throughout. you can connect a peco switch to atlas or model power track for example with no problems. the only thing you'd want to watch for are "dcc friendly" switches. most manufacturers who make them take pains to let you know they are "dcc friendly"....... another advantage to using this type of track are the huge variety of pieces available, and the flexible track you can use for situations where there is no appropriate piece available.

Yes, thanks, that's what I'm thinking. My current idea is to start expanding with Bachmann EZ NS code 100, including some of their DCC powered switches. And then expand again later with NS code 100 Peco or Atlas flex track and use homasote roadbed to match it up to the EZ track level...

Shouldn't be such terrible problems with this method, right?  (Hopefully???) 
Chazzlee

[jward]

the only problem i can forsee is in the homasote itself. it is made from compressed paper and, while it has been used by model railroaders for many years, if your railroad is going to be subject to humidity and/or large changes in temperature you may want to use something else. homasote will swell due to humidity, and this dimensional change can wreak havoc on your trackwork. your rails don't expand or contract with temperature changes anywhere near as much as the homasote does.

if your railroad is going to be in an environment where temp and humidity are relatively stable you should have no problems. do, however, make sure your homasote is supported by something sturdy underneath, like plywood or pine board. homasote is not designed for strength. if you can't use homasote, cork would also work.

[timhar47]

I have used homasote by itself many times. Mounted on 1x4 framework, crossmembers every 16". Other than the imperfections that seem to be more and more these days, with small depressions in the 'sote, I never had a problem.
I now am using 2" pink foam, 24 x 96 sheets. Of course they are not without pains these days either, as the manufacturers are making the joint seams crooked at times, as well as a dumb depressed area at the joint edges. Guess the way to avoid that is to double up on 4'x8' 1" blue sheets. The nice part of foam, is you can push holes thru for wires. Trees - just stick em in.
Tim

[jward]

i have seen disasterous results on layouts with unsupported homasote. homasote warps, and the layouts i've seen where it was unsupported developed sag between the table joists and risers. this opens up a whole host of problems including derailments of long wheelbase locomotives, unwanted uncoupling of cars, etc......your benchwork is the foundation for your railroad. the more support you can give it the better. it really isn't that hard to build a railroad strong enough to walk on.